Good morning all. First of all, apologies for resurrecting an old thread, but it has similar equipment to what I'm using. I've been searching for answers on exactly this type of setup and am glad I found TFP!
Apologies also if this is a thread hijack and you would prefer a new thread. I posted here since all of the above seemed relevant.
Topic spilt. Yes, that was a thread hijack. Please ask question in your own topic. JasonLion
- Pool only, no spa/Jacuzzi/etc
- Sta-Rite Max-E-Therm heater (SR400LP)
- Pentair Pinnacle filter pump 1HP (240v)
- Pentair Letro booster pump 3/4HP (240v)
- Pentair Letro Legend Platinum pressure side cleaner
- High voltage pool light on GFCI
My current setup is using regular mechanical toggle switches that were installed when the pool was. I have switches for:
- Filter pump on/off
- Booster pump on/off ("slaved" to the filter pump)
- Heater on/off
- Light on/off
As far as I know, there is no fireman control on the heater so could it be turned off/on independently of filter pump, or even have the filter pump turned off too soon after heater is turned off- I've not tested this as I don't want to damage the heater.
I wanted to replace the plain-jane toggles with some form of automation to help get the electrical & chemical bills more under control. I experimented with X10, but that was futile. So at the end of last season, I bought the following:
- Intermatic PE15300 control center
- Intermatic P4243ME valve/pump switch
- Intermatic PE650 transceiver
- Intermatic PE953 wireless remote
- Intermatic PA122 water temperature sensor
I also had emailed Intermatic technical support with my setup and they said that combination would work for what I wanted.
Now that spring has sprung, I want to get this installed and I of course have more detailed questions. I've been trying to decide exactly how to lay this out to do what I want.
- Have timed cycles on the filter pump
- Have booster pump still "slaved" to filter pump
- Have heater use fireman control to ensure filter pump is on when in use, and have filter pump continue circulation for a minimum time period after switching off.
- Have temperature control at wireless remote only.
- Have light switched
- Have the ability to control all of this remotely
As far as the documentation goes, I have all of the hardcopies that came with the equipment as packed from Intermatic. I also have PDFs I downloaded last year (sorry, lost the links) for the 1353, 4243, PE10000 series, PE15300, PE45343RC, and all of my equipment.
- What circuits should I wire with what? I already figured out using Mode 5 on the 1353 is what I need there for the filter pump. That ties circuits 1 & 2 together on the 1353 to control the filter pump. I assumed that to get the fireman control, I would need to wire up the heater on circuit 3. Circuit 1 on the 4243 I guess would get the booster pump, then circuit 2 would get the light. I'm a little confused because the 45343 docs talk about the fireman control being used on the 4243. Do I need to swap the "slave items" (heater and booster) over to the 4243 and put the light on circuit 3 of the 1353? It looks more to me like the intended use of the 4243 is for valve control like the OPs setup, and then when switching from pool to spa, you want the heater to kick in. Maybe this is not what I need.
- In general, how to wire the two controllers together, but that would probably fall into place with the above.
- Currently, I cut both breakers for the pool items when winterized (240v/120v). How does this setup handle being winterized? Should I leave the breakers on? Would I be better off wiring the 1353 timer power to 120v instead of 240v and just cutting the pump breaker? They state that the programs have a 40 year memory, but the clock only has 8 hours, so I think this may be the better route if I still need to cut the 240v breaker.
So for wiring:
Pins - Desc - Connection
1 - Timer power - 120v L1 or 240v L1
2 - Timer power - 120v N or 240v L2
3 - Circuit 1 Line - 240v L1
4 - Circuit 1 Load - Filter pump L1
5 - Circuit 2 Line - 240v L2
6 - Circuit 2 Load - Filter pump L2
7 - Circuit 3 Line -
8 - Circuit 3 Load -
Colors - Desc - Connection
Black - Transformer/control supply - 120v L1 or 240v L1
White -Transformer/control supply - 120v N *cap unused
Red - Transformer/control supply - 240v L2 *cap unused
Brown - Circuit 2 Load -
Grey - Circuit 2 Load -
Violet - Circuit 2 Line -
Orange - Circuit 2 Line -
Blue - Circuit 1 Load -
Yellow - Circuit 1 Load -
Black - Circuit 1 Line -
Red - Circuit 1 Line -
Blk/Wht - Remote master
Blk/Wht - Remote master
I really need to try to get this to work since I've already invested around $900 in all of this. I'm a computer programmer by day, but a very good handy man at home and can do just about everything I've ever tried. This has really got me stumped though as I don't want to screw up anything.
Thanks for taking the time to listen and I look forward to any help you can provide.