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Thread: In-ground Concrete Pool

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    In-ground Concrete Pool

    I have been thinking about draining my pool. It's concrete and made in the 1960's. From everything I've been reading, draining a concrete pool is bad because of the possible up heaving. My question is, can I drain it half way without worrying about this happening? It's 8ft at the deepest part, and 3ft in the shallow end. I would like to drain out the shallow end and pressure wash the sides.

    I've already tried chemicals, brushes, nets, and needless to say, it has cost me hundreds already with no real results. It's been green for over a year now, and the frogs and water beetles call it home. I can't access the drain at the bottom cause I can no longer see it. And I'm sure with all the decaying junk at the bottom, it's blocked anyhow.

    Only thing stopping me from just calling it quits with it completely and filling it in is, it will lower the value of my house by $6k.
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    Isaac-1's Avatar
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    Re: In-ground Concrete Pool

    The big question is how high is the water table where you live, and how wet has the weather been lately
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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: In-ground Concrete Pool

    I will tell you what I think you have not tried:

    Understanding the chemistry of the water and following the shock process as described in Pool School utilizing one of the recommended test kits.

    It is 100% guaranteed to clear the pool if your equipment is functioning correctly.

    There are countless threads of cleanups starting with black ponds.

    Replacing the water is really only ever needed if the chemistry is out if whack. Even if you replace half the water. You will still need to follow the shock process.

    Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
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    Re: In-ground Concrete Pool

    Certainly the pool can be cleared without draining. That said, it is fine to drain 50% of your pool without risk.

    You will still have to mechanically clean out most of the sludge and stuff on the bottom and you will still need to learn the shock process but the pool can be crystal clear in a few weeks if you make the commitment to follow the advice here on the forum.
    Dave S.
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    Re: In-ground Concrete Pool

    Welcome Merle! You've found the right website!

    So, you bought a house with a Pool and don't want to use it? Is that correct? Or is the equipment broken and you don't want to pay (have the money) to fix it?

    If the filter and pump work, you can clear that pool up with some regular old bleach in a matter of a few weeks, that's not even a pond yet, it's still green!

    Tell us more about your situation and your desires so we can offer better exacting advice, hopefully if you want, you'll be enjoying your pool as soon as its warm enough to swim!
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    Re: In-ground Concrete Pool

    Quote Originally Posted by Isaac-1
    The big question is how high is the water table where you live, and how wet has the weather been lately
    Have no clue what the water table is at the moment. It's been raining about 2 days every two weeks. As it is suppose to rain tonight, and the next 2 days. Not looking to drain it until it has dried out a bit here.

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    Re: In-ground Concrete Pool

    Quote Originally Posted by jblizzle
    I will tell you what I think you have not tried:

    Understanding the chemistry of the water and following the shock process as described in Pool School utilizing one of the recommended test kits.

    It is 100% guaranteed to clear the pool if your equipment is functioning correctly.

    There are countless threads of cleanups starting with black ponds.

    Replacing the water is really only ever needed if the chemistry is out if whack. Even if you replace half the water. You will still need to follow the shock process.

    Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
    The water is old. The last time it was drained was over 10 years ago. From what I've read, it's best to drain your pool every 5 years or so. I know I'll be cleaning it still even if it was full. My thinking is, if I can lower the water out of the shallow end, it will put me in a better position to scoop out the stuff in the deep end with a net. Versus trying to do it while it's full would be much trickier to get it all.

    Mind you, my skimmer is also leaking. The water drops just far enough down to where I can not run my pump. Whole other issue I'm not going to worry about at the present moment.

    I have lived in this house for over 30 years. Not my first rodeo with pool chemicals. 2 years ago it was clean, just issues with money have cost me to lose the proper care for the pool.

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    Re: In-ground Concrete Pool

    Quote Originally Posted by harleysilo
    Welcome Merle! You've found the right website!

    So, you bought a house with a Pool and don't want to use it? Is that correct? Or is the equipment broken and you don't want to pay (have the money) to fix it?

    If the filter and pump work, you can clear that pool up with some regular old bleach in a matter of a few weeks, that's not even a pond yet, it's still green!

    Tell us more about your situation and your desires so we can offer better exacting advice, hopefully if you want, you'll be enjoying your pool as soon as its warm enough to swim!

    Lol, no didn't buy a house with a pool, I inherited a money pit. I don't swim in it as much as I use too, in fact, not at all now. Pool pump needs the sand replaced, that I know. Money is the problem. Don't have a lot to spend on it. I can replace the sand in the pump, and even fill the pool back up to the proper level, it's the garbage in the bottom. I have a sump pump I used for the hot tub. Just want to lower the water enough to where I can pressure wash the sides and the shallow end. Not to mention it gives me a better and shorter reach to the bottom. I know I will still have to shock it once I refill it.

    I'd rather not fill it in, like I said, it will lower the value of my house. I already complain about mowing the grass now, I don't want more to mow..lol.

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    Re: In-ground Concrete Pool

    Quote Originally Posted by duraleigh
    Certainly the pool can be cleared without draining. That said, it is fine to drain 50% of your pool without risk.

    You will still have to mechanically clean out most of the sludge and stuff on the bottom and you will still need to learn the shock process but the pool can be crystal clear in a few weeks if you make the commitment to follow the advice here on the forum.
    I will certainly follow the advice given. As I do not want a major construction project. The plan it to start this adventure in the next 2 weeks. I would start today, but it's suppose to rain the next 2 days.

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    Re: In-ground Concrete Pool

    I would suggest reading through Pool School to make sure you understand the information on the chemistry. I would also recommend you order one of the suggested test kits so that you will have it on hand when you start the shock process.

    The water in the pool does not get "old" and never needs replaced after a certain amount of time ... unless ... either the CYA or the CH get too high, which would then require water replacement to lower those levels.

    There is nothing wrong with doing a pre-emptive partial drain, especially if it will help you get all the crud our, but it is not required.

    Here are some good reads to get you ready for the shock process:
    Defeating Algae
    Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis
    Shocking Your Pool
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  11. Back To Top    #11

    Re: In-ground Concrete Pool

    Here is what I did when I wanted to change my water last year. I bought one of those blue tarps from the home depot - about 50'x100' size. I think it was about $125.
    I then placed it in the pool and simultanesouly pumped water from the bottom of the pool and ran a garden hose to the top of the tarp.
    As the water drained the tarp sank. Simultanesoulsy the water from the hose refilled the pool but the dirty water and the clean water never mixed. Worked great and gave me peace of mind that my pool wouldnt collapse.
    I drained it about 75% but I imagine you could get just about 100% of the water out using this method.

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    Re: In-ground Concrete Pool

    @michaelab

    Just curious if you have any pictures of the process. We have heard it suggested many times, but have not seen much success (or many attempts).
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Mod Squad JohnT's Avatar
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    Re: In-ground Concrete Pool

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    @michaelab

    Just curious if you have any pictures of the process. We have heard it suggested many times, but have not seen much success (or many attempts).
    We used to do it at work to replace the water in sonar test tanks. We used sheets of greenhouse plastic. As long as the plastic is big enough to "line" the pool without the edges being pulled in, it is a simple process.
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    Re: In-ground Concrete Pool

    Sorry I dont have any pictures of the tarp process. I can report that it worked as simple as it sounds. It took about two days - the main delay was that I used only a pool cover pump to drain out the pool, which went slowly.
    If I had to guess why this method could have failed someone, it probably was only because they didnt have a big enough tarp. The method does have a tendency to pull the tarp down unequally on the sides (and of course the deeper end will use more tarp). From time to time I had to equalize the tarp so that it pulled down in equipose. My pool is about 20 feet wide and I probably had about ten feet of "extra" tarp on either side which worked out swimingly.

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: In-ground Concrete Pool

    Thanks for the details, michaelab
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: In-ground Concrete Pool

    Linen,

    Someone actually used the tarp method successfully back in October and included pictures. As one poster noted in the thread, that is the suff of legends!

    foreclosure-swamp-in-pensacola-florida-t54326-40.html?hilit=tarp%20method
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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: In-ground Concrete Pool

    Thanks for the link Paul234, I don't know how I missed that one.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: In-ground Concrete Pool

    Linen, I wondered the same thing myself since you are all over this board helping out us novices!
    Dedicated TFPer since 2012 with recommended test kit
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    Raypak 400K BTU NG Heater!
    Installed in 2006? (just a guess, pool came with house I purchased in June 2012)

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    Re: In-ground Concrete Pool

    Tarp idea sounds like a better plan. If I dropped a hose from my skimmer to the bottom of the pool, would I be able to suck out the leaves and other garbage thru the waste gate on the filter?

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: In-ground Concrete Pool

    You should not such leaves in through the skimmer. That is why there is a basket in the skimmer. You would just possibly end up clogging the pump.

    Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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