Green Pool ... Help

Jump to latest Follow Reply
V

v0id

0
Apr 1, 2013
21
Chandler, AZ
Hi All,

Neglected pool for a ~2 months and it turned into a swamp (can't see bottom). :( Went to local pool stores and kept getting different advise. Picked a Leslie that at least gave consistent test result and went with them for advice. After 2 weeks, pool is a little better but it isn't clear and starting to lose confidence on them... I can see the bottom of the pool now, but it is still looking green
What they advised so far:
1. Green to Clean ...
2. 2 bags Shocks every 12 hrs for several days...
I dumped in about 9 bags already :-s

Started searching online and found this sites. I like what I'm seeing from pictures others posted and hope I can fix my pool similarly. After reading Pool School multiple times, I hope my pool is not in a really bad state from what the pool store advised my to do (from the 9 bags of shocks - CYA level rises with the use of shocks).

The first thing the Pool School stresses on is equipment...
1. I realized that the pressure on the pump doesn't drop to 0 when it is not running (stuck at 8 - even when I open the pump to wash the filter), anyway to fix this (i.e. calibration problem?) or I have to replace the pressure gauge?
2. How do tell if the filter / pump is working properly? How do I tell if the cartridge needs to be replaced? Please advise.
3. The SWG Cubby is flashing some lights (manual says no chlorine), how do I tell if the cell is working or should we get the pool clear before worrying about this?

I ordered the test kit... but the following are the results from the several pool store while waiting for the kit to arrive...

Code: 
FC   0    0    0.17
TC   0    0    0.25
pH   7.4  7.6  7.7
TA   90   80   78
CH   400  600  862
CYA  99   60   44
Salt 4200 3300

3rd column was tested using an electronic equipment using a tiny sample of water.

Anyway, the results varies widely between different pool store and one thing is consistent... no chlorine left in the pool.

What is the best course of action for me to take while waiting for the test kit to arrive? Please advise. Thank you.
 
Welcome to TFP !

Anything you do before having the test kit is likely just throwing away money.

While waiting, replace the pressure gauge which should be less than $10, open up the filter and inspect and clean the cartridge, and read Pool School a few more times.

Those test results are all over the place and just do not make sense. So take this time to learn and be ready to attack it when you can test for yourself.

Also the SWG should really not be used during the shock process. You can inspect the cell for now and clean if needed and maybe have a pool store test if it is still good. But I would not worry about getting it running yet.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 
Follow the advice above. Then use your new test kit to get accurate test results. Ideally, you want your CYA level between 30 and 50, and you will probably need to drain and refill o accomplish this - although we won't know for sure until you get your test done. At that point it will be time to shock.

While you're waiting, read as much as you can in pool school, and find as many threads as you can that detail the swamp to clear conversion. If you can see the struggles others had and that they were ultimately successful, you will have a much lower stress process. There are lots of peole that want to help, so keep asking questions. And take lots of pictures!
 
Welcome :)

To elaborate on what Jbizzle said, the gauge lets you know if the filter and pump are working correctly, so you have to have a good one. If you have pressure then the pump is probably working okay, but the filter might be dirty. The filter needs to be clean so you know what your normal operating pressure is. Then when the filter pressure has increased 20-25% above your normal pressure you know you need to clean it again. During the shocking process you may have to clean it several times, you may want to get a spare filter so you can swap a clean one in and be up and running while you clean the dirty one.

When your test kit arrives test your pool and fill water. Knowing your fill water levels can help decide how to fix some issues such as high TA, CH and CYA. Post the results of both here. We'll be glad to help. And be patient, shocking can take a while once everything is running right. It may be stressful now, but once you get through this you'll know how to take care of your pool and it'll be a breeze!
 
Thanks for the advice so far.

Anxiously waiting for the test kit to arrive.

While waiting:
- I will replace the pressure gauge
- I will get a new set of filters (seems useful to have spare when shocking / cleaning). Any recommendations for filter? Should I go with Hayward brand or generic will do?

I assume fill water is outside tap water?

I will also post pictures of pool when I test the pool water with the test kit. Pool is starting to get greener again...
 
Fill water is whatever you use to fill the pool. For most it is tap water, but some use trucked in water for various reasons such as high iron in well water.
 
The test kit came... :-D

It came few days ago, but I am only able to get around to doing this today.

What I have done so far...
Replaced Pressure Gauge - easy
Replaced Filter - easy, expensive
Replaced Bottom Collector Manifold - difficult
Three sharp pieces of the bottom collector manifold (i believe is the support) is piercing through and is causing cracks on the caps of the existing filters, I replaced the collector manifold just to be safe (don't want the new ones to be cracked).
[attachment=2:1lmguyta]IMG_5933.jpg[/attachment:1lmguyta]

Do you think the cartridge filter is still usable?
[attachment=1:1lmguyta]IMG_5936.jpg[/attachment:1lmguyta]

Test kit result for pool:
Code: 
FC - 0
CC - 0
pH - 8.2+ (off the chart)
TA - 100 (turns purple on 90) - did I do this right, i.e. using the 100 when it turns red?
CH - 1000
CYA - 30

Test kit result for fill water:
Code: 
FC - 0
CC - 0
pH - 7.5
TA - 130 (turns purple on 120) 
CH - 270
CYA - 0 (I filled up the CA View tube and  can still see the dot)

The CH is very very high. If I understand what I read from Pool School, my best option is to drain and refill the pool?

Please advice. Thank you.

Green Pool
[attachment=0:1lmguyta]IMG_5946.jpg[/attachment:1lmguyta]
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5933.jpg
    IMG_5933.jpg
    44.6 KB · Views: 289
  • IMG_5936.jpg
    IMG_5936.jpg
    46.3 KB · Views: 289
  • IMG_5946.jpg
    IMG_5946.jpg
    43.6 KB · Views: 289
Yeah that is a pretty high CH. To the point it is difficult to manage. Replacing as much water as you can will get that taken care of. Then we can get the CYA back in line and start the shock process.

Obviously the pH should be lowered, but not urgent if you are going to start draining.

Oh, you always add drops until the color stops changing and don't count the drop that does nothing. And CYA should be zero in tap water.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 
I'm not quite following.
How do I re-use water?
My current pool CH is at 1000. The recommended CH levels is 200-300. My fill water CH is 270.
Seems like I can't re-use any water.

Should I drain the whole pool?
Any alternatives if the CH is at 1000?

Please advise. Thanks.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Sorry. Should have been: replace as much water as you can.

You do not need to get all the way down to the 300s. Higher CH can be managed by keeping the pH a little lower, but you are so high, even that is difficult.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 
If replacing water is my best option. I will move forward with this.

How much water do I replace? "replace as much as you can" is very vague. Do you recommend replacing all?

Also, I have never drained a pool before. How do I go about doing this? Please be as descriptive as possible. :) I can't find any article in the Pool School on this.

Do I have to rent a pump/hoses?
Anything I have to do while the water is draining?
How do I re-fill the water?
Do I turn off the pool pump while I'm draining?

I live in Arizona, dry and hot. Will it cause problems to the physical if I drain it (i.e. hot sun shining on it)?

Thanks.
 
I just drained mine about a month ago. I assume your ground water level is well below the bottom of your pool, so you can drain as much as you want. A full drain will get you to tap water level. The other option is reverse osmosis, which is available by you. Costs $300-400 I think.

Quickest is to rent a submersible pump from home depot or buy one at harbor freight. Pump has to be off. If you can isolate the floor drain and have a waste setting in your filter, you could use your pump to drain a good bit.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 
Is it worth investing in getting a pump? I do have Harbor Freights nearby and the submersible pump is about $60.

When draining, should I try to clean/scrub the sides of the pool and try to remove the algae that is on the wall? For the water that is in the piping and the pool pump, I just leave them there?

When I refill, do I also fill the pool from garden hose, should I use as many water source as possible to re-fill the pool?

So, the idea is:
1. to re-fill the pool with tap water (excluding the existing water trapped in pipes and pump).
2. get pool chemistry right for shocking
3. kill off remaining algae
4. get pool chemistry to ideal level

Please verify, thanks.
 
Sound like a plan. You will want to shock, but the process will go quickly since you have removed most of the algae. You could scrub/pressure wash the sides add it drains to remove more algae.

The rental is around $50 I think, but you only have 24 hours. Actually there is some deal where if you rent for 4 hours and pick up after 5 PM, you have to have it back by 9 am. I think mine drained in about 5 hours. So was empty by 11 PM and then I started filling with 3 hoses.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 
Welcome aboard, you've come to the right place! Whether you drain & refill or opt to get the green out, I'm sure you'll be back in the swim again soon. I'm beginning to feel like a spammer for linking to my thread so often, but I tracked my journey from slime to sparkle. It's here if you care to read it:
too-cold-for-algae-wrong-swamp-to-sparkle-in10-days-50-t55062.html

Good luck, and keep us updated on your progress!
 
I will be draining my pool next weekend. I will plan on doing a light acid wash to remove some copper stains (50/50 muriatic acid and water). I will also be renting the pump from Home Depot because it comes with 100' of hose to discharge the water. Following advice on this forum i also purchased a post hole digger and dug a 5' hole to confirm my water table level. The hole was dry when dug but i will check tomorrow to see if any water has seeped into it.

I was also a Leslie's Pool store user and after receiving my test kit I also have high CH (due to heavy use of Power Powder Plus shock). I have been in the planning/research stage for about 4 months now so just post if you have any additional questions or concerns.
 
Thank you all. I have an idea how to drain and re-fill.

Comes the next difficult part, how do I get the water chemistry right with the new water?

From the pool calculator, I have a rough idea of how to get to the target values... However, some factors affect each other:
pH: Acid lowers pH
TA: Baking soda increases pH
CYA: Borax lowers pH

I am also using a Salt Water System, so I'll be needing to add salt too.

What is the recommended way/order to start adding the chemicals into the pool? Since I'm new at this, please be as descriptive as possible (preferably a step by step guide).

Please advise. Thanks.
 
CYA is not borax.

Most important are getting some chlorine in, adding the CYA and keeping the pH in range. TA and CH are kind of secondary.

Keep reading Pool School.

Post up a full set of results when the pool is full.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply