Taylor K-2006 arrived

[Greta]

Greetings,

My test kit arrived. I've drained half the water and refilled which successfully lowered the CYA from 100 to 49, but raised the TA to 130, according to the pool store test yesterday morning. Their recommendation was to add acid, which I had just drained half the water to reduce. But when I tested it with the new kit, the CYA was closer to 70, while the TA confirmed 130. Another extreme discrepancy was with the CH. According to pool store only 200, but according to my test, over 500! The test water was supposed to turn from red to blue, but after 50 drops, I settled for lilac. The chlorine test presented yet another question. How long does it take and how completely must the DPD powder for the chlorine test dissolve? First test for FC, where I didn't allow as much time for dissolution, was 2.2, and the 2nd test, when I allowed more time for dissolution, was 1.8. CC was 4.4, when the pool store analysis was 0. I have emailed Taylor for their input, but thought y'all might have some thoughts sooner. Why did I want a pool?? Thanks for any help.

 

[Richard320]

Greetings,

My test kit arrived. I've drained half the water and refilled which successfully lowered the CYA from 100 to 49, but raised the TA to 130, according to the pool store test yesterday morning. Their recommendation was to add acid, which I had just drained half the water to reduce. But when I tested it with the new kit, the CYA was closer to 70, while the TA confirmed 130. Another extreme discrepancy was with the CH. According to pool store only 200, but according to my test, over 500! The test water was supposed to turn from red to blue, but after 50 drops, I settled for lilac. The chlorine test presented yet another question. How long does it take and how completely must the DPD powder for the chlorine test dissolve? First test for FC, where I didn't allow as much time for dissolution, was 2.2, and the 2nd test, when I allowed more time for dissolution, was 1.8. CC was 4.4, when the pool store analysis was 0. I have emailed Taylor for their input, but thought y'all might have some thoughts sooner. Why did I want a pool?? Thanks for any help.

Cyanuric acid = CYA = stabilizer. Minimal effect on pH and TA. It is like a sunblock for the chlorine.
Muriatic Acid = Hydrochloric Acid is what you use to reduce TA and pH. So the pool store is correct there. They are two different acids.

The inaccuracy of their tests is not surprising. In any event, if you have high CH, which is almost a given if you live in California or the Southwest (It would help a lot if you'd post your location), then do the test with a 10 ml sample, as explained in this thread It's under the notes.

For the FAS-DPD test, it's normal and desirable to have one or two granules of powder undissolved when you begin. They'll dissolve eventually during the test. I'd chalk up your discrepancy to the mixing.

All these tests take a lot of swirling, which is why I use a ]speedstir.[/u]

If you haven't read in its entirety, I suggest you start now. It will answer a lot of questions before you think to ask them, and save a lot of typing.

 

[jblizzle]

Trust your own test. Period.

Did you get a Speedstir? The CH test can be tricky without it I think.

The powder for the FC test dissolves immediately, no need to wait. Also no need for the 0.2 accuracy, use a 10ml water sample.

There is a sticky in the Testing forum with extended test instructions ... check it out.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short

 

[Greta]

Thank you for your replies. I'll get a speed stir and read more on the extended test tips. My powder didn't dissolve immediately.
I travel for about a week out of every month. Any ideas on how to keep the pool chlorinated while away? SWG is out of the question. Could I use the daily bleach routine while in town and then use chlorine tabs while away? Or do I need to start a new topic for that question?
I installed the poolskim, thanks to this forum, which will help immensely with constant tree debris. Easy installation.

 

[jblizzle]

What I meant by immediately was that the water should turn pink almost immediately when you swirl it ... However, like I said I use a speed stir that has the water spinning when I add the powder and it goes pink immediately, so manually swirling likely is not quite as fast.

You can use the tablets ... as long as you understand they will be raising your CYA. If that is your plan, I would suggest lowering your CYA down to closer to 30ppm now since it will rise when you are using the tablets. I have observed that it is difficult to get the tablets in a floater to dissolve fast enough to maintain the desired FC level.

 

[Greta]

The water did go pink immediately, but I could still see particles floating around, and once I set the tube down, the water returned to clear.
Is the one and only way of lowering CYA to drain the water? I've drained it twice already, and water is a precious commodity in TX. Where is it coming from? I'm not using chlorine tablets.
I'm presently using calcium hypochlorite caplets (Poolife) to avoid raising CYA (and it may be jacking up the CH level!), but if my FC test is even close to correct, it's way too low, so the caplets aren't doing much good.
As soon as I have time, I need to do the shock routine that I read about somewhere on this forum. "Trouble Free" is not even on the horizon yet.

 

[JohnN]

Draining is the only practical way to lower CYA. It can come from adding Stabilizer, tablets, or "shock." It is possible that originally your CYA was much higher than 100. As far as what chlorine to use, you really should switch to liquid, as your CH is already very high.

 

[Greta]

I forgot about "shock" being a source. I added 1/2 bag a couple of days ago and likely need to do it again. Or, should I just start using bleach and skip the shock. I'm happy to use the liquid, but that leaves me without a solution for time away.

 

[RobbieH]

I've drained it twice already, and water is a precious commodity in TX.

Water is very cheap here.

You should not add any more powder or tablet products to your pool. Liquid chlorine/bleach only.

 

[duraleigh]

but that leaves me without a solution for time away.

Lower your CYA initially down around the 30ppm mark as suggested above, then use the pucks while you are away. You can elevate your FC with liquid chlorine just before you leave and then use the pucks and you should be able to get pretty close to a weeks worth of sanitation.

If you find your CYA elevating up much past 50-60, it will be quick to do a small drain to return it back to 30 or so and then use the pucks again if you need to.

By testing carefully, you are learning to manage your pool water with knowledge and accuracy and will have become a true BBB'r. You are on a good path.

 

[linen]

The water did go pink immediately, but I could still see particles floating around, and once I set the tube down, the water returned to clear..

From the extended test kit directions:

Using the small spoon shaped end of the dipper, add one heaping dipper, or two level dippers, of R-0870 and swirl to mix. If the sample turns pink for a moment and then turns clear again, or if it turns brown, add another dipper of R-0870. If the sample remains clear the entire time, your FC level is probably zero, however it is best to verify that with an OTO chlorine test, since the FAS-DPD test is prone to the occasional false zero.

Also, I think you are confused by the term "shock", when we use "shocking process" on here, we mean: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/shocking_your_pool. Unfortunately, some manufactures have label their chlorine as "shock" which is not what we are refering to on here as the "shock process" or the "shocking process". Ours is a process not a product.

 

[Greta]

Thanks to all for the good and needed advice! We had rain last night. My pool is green this morning. I did the overnight test as recommended, removing the calcium hypochlorite caplet from the skimmer 30 minutes before the test last night. The water, obviously, has NO FC. I'm ready to pour in the bleach. How much do I begin with? And how often should I test?

 

[duraleigh]

Have you done a partial drain and refill to further lower your CYA and CH? If so, can you post current test results?

 

[Greta]

I've done 2 partial drains, and last night's CYA test looked to be about 70.
CH is 500. At least.
TA 130
pH 7.6

 

[duraleigh]

You will have better luck clearing your pool if you drain about 25-30% or so of your water again.

That'll get your CYA down to a very manageable 50 and your CH down around 350.....that's about ideal.

 

[Greta]

Well...I already added 3 gallons bleach this morning, cleaned filter and vacuumed, checked FC 2 hours later and it was negligible. Just added another 3 gallons as well as drained some water as the rain last night overfilled. BTW, I stopped by the pool store to get the 12%, but they don't carry any liquid chlorine and she scolded me for pouring bleach directly into the water! When I got home it was already blue again, though I know I need to keep after it. My objective at this point is to follow the shocking regimen as outlined in the Pool School. Then I'll focus again on more draining, etc. But the green water was alarming. Things are looking up. Thanks for your reply.

 

[linen]

Well...I already added 3 gallons bleach this morning, cleaned filter and vacuumed, checked FC 2 hours later and it was negligible. Just added another 3 gallons as well as drained some water as the rain last night overfilled.

That is alot of bleach to add at one time to your 6K pool. 3 gallons of 6% would should have raised your pool to 30 ppm (and your shock level at 70 ppm cya is 20 ppm). Maybe raise it a bit less, but test more often and add more often. How certain are you of the pool volume?

BTW, I stopped by the pool store to get the 12%, but they don't carry any liquid chlorine and she scolded me for pouring bleach directly into the water!

Yeah, that is funny...and clueless.

Things are looking up.

 

[Greta]

I had read somewhere on the forum just how much (ppm) a gallon of bleach would raise the chlorine level in a 10,000 gal. pool, but I didn't record it and couldn't find it again. I wondered if another 3 wouldn't be too much, but testing after the first 3 took only 1 drop to turn the pink water back to clear (using Taylor K 2006), meaning there was virtually no FC yet. I'm sure about the size of the pool. I'll slow it down and check often. I'm in TX and the weather is warm. I'll go check it now>>>

 

[ping]

Use the pool calculator, http://www.poolcalculator.com/, to calculate the amount of chemicals you need. You will need to add the amount of gallons in your pool, the values of your chemistry, and desired results. When you mouse over the fields the calculator will tell you how much of each chemical to add.

 

[Greta]

I redid the CYA test, and I think it's closer to 50 than 70. The black dot seems to disappear and then slightly reappear...The FC is up to 16.5, and the CC is at .5. I'll try out the pool calculator.