Aquarite - Reads 2600 and Power Light On only

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FloridaNavyChief

FloridaNavyChief

0
Mar 20, 2013
6
Tampa Bay Florida area
I'm guessing my SWG stopped functioning properly about 10-days ago. Mid last week saw the 2600 reading and added 40# of salt which did not change the salt level. That's when I noticed nothing else happening other than the power light. I cleaned the T-CEL-15 and ordered and replaced the thermistor over the weekend hoping this inexpensive and relatively easy fix would cure my system but no luck. A new cell is on the way (went with titaniumcells.com) since the system is all original equipment installed in 2004. That should arrive today although I am not convinced the new cell will bring everything back to life.

I thought a saw a thread started with similar symptoms from someone opening after winter; but a search of the forum hasn't yielded anything. Also, I've only found one other thread (on doityourself.com) that describes this symptom and they ended up replacing the boards after replacing the thermistor. I am still hopeful for a solution that doesn't require wholesale swap of the circuit boards.

I have been using liquid chlorine to sanitize and had the water tested at Pinch-A-Penny yesterday to ensure I have chemistry correct for new cell.

1.0 ppm FC
7.6 pH
120 ppm Total Alk
375 ppm Calcium
90 ppm Stabilizer
3800 ppm Salt

Diagnostics from the Aquarite this morning (temps in Florida dropped into the 40's overnight) are similar to readings since I began troublshooting:
Cold (else 2600)
Temp 63
31.4
0.00
5P
-0
AL-5
r1.32

Anybody?
 
If that cell was installed in '04 I'd say you've definitely gotten your moneys worth out of it. I think the new cell will probably solve your porblem. It's common for a cell that's failing to show low salt readings.
 
Hi FloridaNavyChief,

Do you have any updated news? Your situation sounds exactly like mine. The power light comes on and nothing else. Always in the past, after turning on, the red "No Flow" light would come on, and then about 30 seconds later, you would hear the internal "click", the generating light would come on, and everything would be off and running fine. Now, I don't get any of those lights or conditions, just the power light on and the display reads 2600 (and of course no chlorine generating). All of my water chemistry results are within proper range. I have manually tested for salt and have 2800 PPM. My Aquarite model is a (I believe) 5A, up to 40,000 gals., manufactured and installed in 2003. No problems since then until now. Current display readings are:
2600
72
30.9
0.00
90P
0
AL - 5
r 1.21

I just got off the phone with Hayward, and they ran me througha quick diag. They told me the AL - 5 reading is an error code that tells them the main board is bad. I asked if it could be a bad flow meter/switch, and they said "No, the 'No Flow' light would display if it were bad." They recommended that I have a pool professional make repairs. I asked him if replacing the board would fix it and he said "Yes."

I see that you replaced the thermister with no positive results, correct? Do you have a fix yet? I want to make sure I learn the best solution before wasting money. The Hayward Tech guy didn't sound really sure.

And anyone else have some info or can help?

Thanks!

-RD

IN-ground gunite, 22,000 gals
Sta-Rite System 3
Solar heated
 
After replacing the cell and the thermistor I ended up replacing the main/primary circuit board (not the smaller display board) with a rebuilt one purchased off eBay from this guy - poolinabox (http://myworld.ebay.com/poolinabox/&_tr ... 1497.l2754). The price was right, he offers a warranty, and buys back your old board; all that coupled with positive reviews and comments made me pick him. BTW, my board had a shipping problem that was not his fault and he was very helpful in getting the problem resolved. If you are comfortable working inside the control box and handling circuit boards the replacement is pretty straight forward.

-Go Navy!
 
Hi FNC,

Thanks for your info and help! It's good to read that you have a confirmed fix, and that you did some additional isolation "tests" as well. Sorry you had to do extra work/repairs that didn't result in a fix, but it greatly helps the rest of us. I'm very comfortable with replacing the main board so I'll be looking into that same seller on eBay. Thanks for that link also!

I hope you system is back to full functionality. Again, thanks!

-RD
 

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