Removing supports for diving board

[dbbarron]

We have a 20 year old gunnite pool with exposed aggregate decking (cantilever).
There was a diving board on the deep end which we removed (insurance requirement) and never intend to replace.
We are not worried about there being a diving board for resale.

I would like to remove the remaining diving board supports which consist of two "D" shaped stainless pipes (one on each side of the board) that appear to penetrate the deck - perhaps 1.5" diameter. So, four total deck penetrations by pipe. There is also a metal stub that the spring stands on - looks like 1/2" rebar sticking out of the deck maybe 6".

So, I plan to cut all this off and smooth to deck level with an angle grinder with either a steel cutting or grinding blade. Then, I plan to fill the four pipe holes with concrete and press some rocks into the top to approximate the exposed aggregate finish. It does not have to be perfect.

Am I on the right track? Any suggestions/pitfalls?

db

 

[X-PertPool]

Sounds good to me. That style diving board is a bit harder to deal with since you have to fill the holes in the ground as opposed to newer style boards that just use thick bolts that can be ground down to nothing. The only other option would be to jack hammer the area and pour a new slab. Your way is just as effective as both options will have an obvious discoloration from old decking to new.

 

[Pool Clown]

What we do is cut the pipes semi-close to the ground then core drill with a 2" bit and fill in. Even though the standard(s) are supposed to be stainless steel, they usually rust, so we just remove them.

 

[dbbarron]

What we do is cut the pipes semi-close to the ground then core drill with a 2" bit and fill in. Even though the standard(s) are supposed to be stainless steel, they usually rust, so we just remove them.

Unfortunately, I do not have that capability (I guess I could rent). I was thinking of cutting as close to the ground as possible and then using the grinder on a diagonal to bring the pipe edges a little below deck level, then filling.

I do have a SDS-plus bit rotary hammer and I do see 2" core bits available for it. They appear to be 4" max depth and I think my deck is 4-6" or so. Need to double check, so that leaves a conventional core drill/bit unless there are other ideas out there!

db

 

[Isaac-1]

If it was me I think I would try cutting them down to within about 1/2 inch of the concrete then use a dremmel tool with a cut off disk to cut the pipe off below the surface level. Then use the cut off disk to cut 3 slits each about 1/3 of the way around pipe and try out the 3 chunks. Then fill the hole as you suggested, this would not leave a ring of pipe exposed at the surface. This may be more work, but you likely leave a cleaner result when your done. A lot depends on what tools you have at hand though

Ike

 

[Pool Clown]

If grinding be EXTREMELY aware of where the grindings are going! You don't want to be spraying the pool with them as you will incur many rust spots on your plastered surface.

 

[Richard320]

If grinding be EXTREMELY aware of where the grindings are going! You don't want to be spraying the pool with them as you will incur many rust spots on your plastered surface.

YES!
I cut off some closet shelves once on the patio table and ended up with a freckled tabletop. A paste of Vitamin C tablets lifted them, fortunately. But in the pool - yikes! A piece of steel - don't know what, but it was smaller than a BB - left a huge rust spot that took a couple days to eliminate completely.

 

[dbbarron]

Looks like the core drill is the way to go!
I still might have to grind the stub for the spring, but maybe I can get a smaller core, say 1" for that.
I can cut the tubes down with a reciprocating saw - less flying metal; can drape a tarp between the cutting and the pool also, then blow/wash the deck down after away from the pool.

 

[Pool Clown]

If your standard is 1 1/2" a 1" core bit wont help.

You can have someone hold a piece of plywood between you and the pool while you grind, Or just move to the other side of the project, and spray away from the pool.

 

[dbbarron]

If your standard is 1 1/2" a 1" core bit wont help.

You can have someone hold a piece of plywood between you and the pool while you grind, Or just move to the other side of the project, and spray away from the pool.

Good idea for the plywood.

I was going to use a 2" bit for the pipe (standard) and a 1" bit for the stub (rebar?) that the spring sits on.

db

 

[Pool Clown]

Make sure you have a bit that will cut steel. Most do, but make sure. Especially if you are renting the core drill. Those bits are expensive.

 

[dbbarron]

Once I core out the deck around the pipes (using a 2" core drill through the 4" deck), is there anything else preventing their removal?

For instance, do the stainless pipes extend beyond the bottom of the deck and are embedded in something or is there a flange or otherwise under the deck?

db

 

[Pool Clown]

We haven't run into anything like that yet (knocks on wood). If you feel the core drill break through, you pretty much got it. If there were a "pier" that was set below the deck for anchoring, the core drill would keep cutting into that. IOW, the deck pour would set right on the pier, no dirt layer between.