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Thread: starting over/need suggestions - more questions

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    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    starting over/need suggestions - more questions

    Sorry this is long......We have enjoyed a swim n play pool since 1997. It is a 52" one, so it must have been one of the first in that height. Well made I am guessing because we have had 0 problems in the 16 years we have swum in it. I have not even changed out the liner. We installed it ourselves.

    Last year I discovered a leak. Not bad, but enough to warrant looking into a new liner. When I removed the liner to check out the wall, I noticed the wall had cracked around the outlet. So I am thinking of replacing the walls and the liner. Small cracks not huge.

    The place I purchased the pool from said they would sell me a replacement pool and liner for less than what swim n play would replace the wall under warranty. I purchased a new skimmer last year. I would have to pay sales tax and my transportation down to the business.

    What I need help with?--- do I do this, which would require me driving a distance of over 75 miles, or order something over the internet (propools or poolsupplies.com) a replacement pool package for about the same amount but no shipping/transportation cost and no sales tax. I am looking to spend under $1500. I was offered the XL 7000 and the Yorkshire, but I do not think I want the Yorkshire. It does not seem to be as good. Same pool at propools.com (XL 7000). Different brand at poolsupplies.com. Echo canyon, opera, etc. I want all steel not resin because I live in a snow area.

    What would you do? What would you suggest?

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: starting over/need suggestions

    Welcome to tfp, lne216

    Any chance you could fix it by patching? What material is the wall? Where are the cracks...skimmer or return? Since the pool has done so well for you, that would be my first inclination. Unless the replacement pool is identical, totally taking down a pool and replacing always brings with it extra work.

    Quote Originally Posted by lne216
    I want all steel not resin because I live in a snow area.
    Why do you think steel is better with snow? I have steels walls but resin rails and verticals that do fine (minnesota). I would expect resin walls would be fine as well.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: starting over/need suggestions

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    Welcome to tfp, lne216

    Any chance you could fix it by patching? What material is the wall? Where are the cracks...skimmer or return? Since the pool has done so well for you, that would be my first inclination. Unless the replacement pool is identical, totally taking down a pool and replacing always brings with it extra work.

    Quote Originally Posted by lne216
    I want all steel not resin because I live in a snow area.
    Why do you think steel is better with snow? I have steels walls but resin rails and verticals that do fine (minnesota). I would expect resin walls would be fine as well.
    I tried to patch the liner and that is when I discovered the wall was rusted. My patch job did not work so I am concerned there is another leak somewhere. The wall is steel. What I am calling cracks are splits in the steel wall. Not more than 1/2" in length, around the return. I have not inspected the skimmer wall that closely.

    I don't have a problem with the extra work. But since I have to put in a new liner anyway...

    I read that the resin ledges were not recommended for snowy climates. I have no first hand knowledge. My steel ledges have held up fine in the 16 years we have had this pool. If I knew the model of what I had I might be able to ask the swim n play people what would be an equivalent pool wall. I just thought for the same amount of $ I could get new supports also and make it look new again. Nothing is wrong with them except dents from when my boys played baseball in the back yard.

  4. Back To Top    #4
    linen's Avatar
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    Re: starting over/need suggestions

    Other than the leak you patched, how is the liner condition? If the liner is decent then knowing where the leak is still would be good, since it also might just be a simpe patch job.

    Resin ledges work fine in winter climates. My pool is over 10 years old and has been moved once.

    Unless those splits are propagating, or if they are over other parts of the pool, the water pressure up by the return is not great, so I would just repair them. It might be as easy as applying some rustoleum and then wrapping thick duck tape over the return hole to protect the new liner.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: starting over/need suggestions

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    Other than the leak you patched, how is the liner condition? If the liner is decent then knowing where the leak is still would be good, since it also might just be a simpe patch job.

    Resin ledges work fine in winter climates. My pool is over 10 years old and has been moved once.

    Unless those splits are propagating, or if they are over other parts of the pool, the water pressure up by the return is not great, so I would just repair them. It might be as easy as applying some rustoleum and then wrapping thick duck tape over the return hole to protect the new liner.
    I really have no idea. What I patched did not stop the leak apparently. I did not cover it this winter to see if it would go down much past the return and it did. Now it is frozen, but it went down about 6" below the return, so I have no idea where the leak is.

    That would sure be an easier solution but since my patch work did not correct the leak, I don't know what to do now.

    Thanks so much!

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    Re: starting over/need suggestions

    Because of my husband's health I am going to take your advice and just replace the liner. We cannot finally afford a new pool anymore.

    So...it is driving me crazy researching how much new accessories are available in installing a new liner. Okay, I am in the over 50 crowd, so be nice.

    I have a good sand base with lots of footprints, but no rocks, roots, etc. Remember, my liner has lasted over 15 years. So do I need happy bottom? Or should I use the gorilla/liner shield liner? Do I really need anything? Which one if I need one?

    I realize I need the pool cove, even though I have a great sand cove that was lined with black plastic to keep the sand in. And it did for 16 years.

    I am thinking I need the wall foam to protect my new liner against the rust I have around the skimmer and return. I have not taken the pool liner out to see the condition of the entire wall. It has been too cold here and I won't be looking at installing a new liner for a couple of weeks at the earliest.

    And finally, 20 gauge or 25 gauge. The local shop says they sell quality liners but do I really need to worry about the gauge/mil? I am guessing they sell the standard 20.

    Thanks so much for your help!

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