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Thread: Replacing pool pipes

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
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    Replacing pool pipes

    G'day!

    We just bought a larger sand filter and are having a plumber modify the pipes to accommodate it.

    My pool equipment is higher than the pool.

    Does the following make sense?

    I would like to have each section of pipe removable, basically using like a dozen unions?
    I would like to add non return valves before the pump inlet and on the SWG outlet, just in case I get an air leak somewhere later (it happened before)?
    I don't have a heater but should I factor in somehow adding one later, like a couple of tee fittings with valves after the SWG?
    Should I put a valve on the waste just in case I get a tiny leak from the filter (it happened before), are there valves that will stop low pressure water but if its accidentally closed when I do a backwash it will open?

    Thanks everyone.

    Richard
    In-ground pebblecrete, 16000 gallon, sand filter, salt chlorinator

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Replacing pool pipes

    1. Unions are not 100% reliable and I see no reason to have so many ... my pumps connects with unions and I did put some off the filter so that I can pull any piece of equipment off if needed. I guess I can not see the need for more than 5, and even that may would not see as needed.
    2. I do not understand what you are saying
    3. Just leave enough straight pipe that you could cut and add a Ts later if required
    4. No valve like that that I know of. If you have a leak out of the waste, then you should fix the multivalve anyway or you may end up passing dirt back to the pool
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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  3. Back To Top    #3

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    Re: Replacing pool pipes

    Thanks Jason!

    For point 2, isn't that a check valve, it stops water (or air) flowing backwards:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Check_valve

    For point 3, isn't that a 3-port Jandy valve:

    http://www.poolplaza.com/pool-school/pl ... port.shtml

    Richard
    In-ground pebblecrete, 16000 gallon, sand filter, salt chlorinator

  4. Back To Top    #4
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Replacing pool pipes

    2. Ah check-valve. Not usually a good idea on the suction side as it can result in entrapment problems. Also not sure why you would need it after the SWG. Sometimes they are needed between a heater and a SWG/chlorinator. Also good after the filter to prevent flow backward through the filter.

    3. There are multiple ways to plumb in a heater, but again I would not do anything but ensure there is enough room to add the required Tees / valves at a later date.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Join Date
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    Re: Replacing pool pipes

    Thanks!
    In-ground pebblecrete, 16000 gallon, sand filter, salt chlorinator

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