Recieved my TF-100 and tested
- Thread starter Sack
- Start date
[s:1sa7mw71]How does the water look? CYA is high, but if you keep on top of the chlorine (daily) you should be able to manage.[/s:1sa7mw71]How does the water look? Usually a CC of >.5 means you need to shock. With a CYA of 80, that is going to be a lot of bleach. You may want to replace some water to get that down to 50. Also, you didn't post CH numbers. Just wait for the more experienced people to comment first, because I am still relatively new to this.
-- I was a little slow on this one I see, but will leave my comments that mimic those above --
How does the water look?
I would recommend you check the CH ... while low is not a problem for a vinyl pool, high can cause issues.
You TA is a little high, all this will do is cause the pH to rise more rapidly. If you keep your pH in check, the TA should come down.
Now the bigger issues:
Obviously your CYA is about double what we recommend, so either replace half the water, or make sure your FC never drops below 6 ppm.
BUT,
With a CC reading of 1 ppm, that usually means there is something in the pool that would require you to go through the shock process.
Since your CYA is so high, your shock FC level is 31 ppm according to Pool School.
So, you have to decided, shock process at high CYA & FC -OR- replace water and shock process at lower CYA & FC levels
How does the water look?
I would recommend you check the CH ... while low is not a problem for a vinyl pool, high can cause issues.
You TA is a little high, all this will do is cause the pH to rise more rapidly. If you keep your pH in check, the TA should come down.
Now the bigger issues:
Obviously your CYA is about double what we recommend, so either replace half the water, or make sure your FC never drops below 6 ppm.
BUT,
With a CC reading of 1 ppm, that usually means there is something in the pool that would require you to go through the shock process.
Since your CYA is so high, your shock FC level is 31 ppm according to Pool School.
So, you have to decided, shock process at high CYA & FC -OR- replace water and shock process at lower CYA & FC levels
If the water is clear, is a shock necessary? Either way, I am thinking bring it up to shock and do an overnight FC loss test, and then go from there? Thing is, the shock level is 21, which could be a lot of bleach. For a 13,000 gallon pool (did you post your pool size?) is 364 oz.
Water is fairly clear. But I have a tree that's been dropping little white blooms and now some pollen looking stuff. But that's almost done with thank god. I didn't test CH since I have a vinyl liner. I thought I read that it didn't matter so much with vinyl. So ill drain in the next day or so and refill. Then retest
You'll want to drain about 40% to get you to 50, or 50% to get you to 40.As for CH, low doesn't matter in a vinyl, but high can cause scaling.
Question
So how would the CYA be affected during the summer and evaporation. Its getting close to the temps to start rising here and I have a good amount of evaporation? So could I slowly lower cya that way or does it not work that way.
So how would the CYA be affected during the summer and evaporation. Its getting close to the temps to start rising here and I have a good amount of evaporation? So could I slowly lower cya that way or does it not work that way.
CYA does not evaporate. The only* way to lower it is by replacing water.
*-Another option is reverse osmosis, but this is expensive and only available in some areas. So really, the only "easy" option is replace water.
*-Another option is reverse osmosis, but this is expensive and only available in some areas. So really, the only "easy" option is replace water.
no i mean by adding water to refill what has evaporated. Would that slowly lower the cya
No. The CYA does not leave with the evaporated water. So when water is low due to evaporation, the CYA would be higher and get re-diluted when you fill back up.
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
FC 3
CC .5
TA 160
CH 220
CYA measured twice 80 then 70(I'm afraid i'm over thinking this test and forcing myself to see the dot if that makes any sense)
PH 7.5
I drained about a foot then refilled. I have a vinyl liner so couldn't go too much further. Had to get creative and drain once past the skimmer by using the vaccum hose hooked up to the skimmer. Took me 3 days(about 3 hours a night) to get the level back up as i'm not home a lot. I'm afraid of what the water bill is going to be.
CC .5
TA 160
CH 220
CYA measured twice 80 then 70(I'm afraid i'm over thinking this test and forcing myself to see the dot if that makes any sense)
PH 7.5
I drained about a foot then refilled. I have a vinyl liner so couldn't go too much further. Had to get creative and drain once past the skimmer by using the vaccum hose hooked up to the skimmer. Took me 3 days(about 3 hours a night) to get the level back up as i'm not home a lot. I'm afraid of what the water bill is going to be.
The numbers look pretty good. Is your water clear? It doesn't look like your CYA has lowered much at all.
Refill water in most areas is not that expensive....$5-10 / 1000gallons.
Looks like your have some more draining to do to reduce your CYA.
Refill water in most areas is not that expensive....$5-10 / 1000gallons.
Looks like your have some more draining to do to reduce your CYA.
duraleigh said:
thats what i was thinking. I prob need to a few more times. Should I wait to add chlorine till I get the cya where it should be? I mean while im draing and refilling
Yes and no. You want to keep chlorine in the pool at all times but there is no sense adding a LOT of chlorine and then draining it out.
Good plan would be to drain quite a bit more now (at least a foot) and then add chlorine back (bringing it up to about 4-5ppm or so) as you are refilling. You will not be able to keep your FC perfectly but as long as you maintain at least 3ppm or so, you will be fine.
Quick question just to make sure......
You don't have a salt water generator do you??
You don't have a salt water generator do you??
nope i use liquid chlorine.
So im on my next drain and refill. I will repost tests when i get the level back up
So im on my next drain and refill. I will repost tests when i get the level back up
tested everything again today after letting pump circulate more. I think im starting to get the hang of the testing.
FC 13
CC.5
TA 220
CYA 60
PH 8.2
CH 180
What do yall think? I know I need to lower the PH. About a 1 1/2 gallons of muratic acid I assume. Thanks all of yall have been most helpful
FC 13
CC.5
TA 220
CYA 60
PH 8.2
CH 180
What do yall think? I know I need to lower the PH. About a 1 1/2 gallons of muratic acid I assume. Thanks all of yall have been most helpful
Don't test your pH when the FC is above 10ppm.....the results will skew a bit high sometimes. Let your FC drift down below 10ppm and then test pH before you make any adjustments.
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