I've got a problem I need help with. When I winterized my pool this past year, I was generating chlorine, and everything looked good. I have a cover on my pool, so I didn't look at the water for a while. My problem is when my Aquarite comes on now, I get a "low flow" light blinking (no other lights) for about 60-90 seconds. It goes off and the "power" button and "generating" button comes on for about 30 seconds. Then all lights go off, I can shift throught the display and I still have readings. My water is turning green, and I have grandbabies that are need that pool in a couple of months... Help, please.
Aquarite Problem
- Thread starter mburns2783
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!
There are several possibilities. One is that the water is too cold. The AquaRite shuts down when the water is below about 50 degrees. Another is that something is restricting water flow, for example a dirty filter or debris in the skimmer basket or pump strainer basket. Yet another possibility is that calcium scale has formed on the cell plates, which is preventing the AquaRite from working correctly. It is also possible that the cell is wearing out.
Regardless, you need to add chlorine manually until you can get whatever is wrong with the AquaRite worked out.
There are several possibilities. One is that the water is too cold. The AquaRite shuts down when the water is below about 50 degrees. Another is that something is restricting water flow, for example a dirty filter or debris in the skimmer basket or pump strainer basket. Yet another possibility is that calcium scale has formed on the cell plates, which is preventing the AquaRite from working correctly. It is also possible that the cell is wearing out.
Regardless, you need to add chlorine manually until you can get whatever is wrong with the AquaRite worked out.
Thanks for the reply. My pump does sound like it is under more of a load now than it used to. I plan on replacing the sand in my filter, I think it could be causing back pressure. I cleaned my cell and it looks good. I switched the valve on top of my sand filter to "recirculate", because after reading the literature, it is supposed to bypass the filter. Same thing.
Pool Clown
In The Industry
If all lights are going off but you still have a display, then the main board is what is malfunctioning. I wont say it needs to be replaced as others here repair them. I will just say that that is the cause.
I wouldn't be so quick to change the sand. That is almost never the problem.
What does the Aquarite say the water temp is?
What is the filter pressure when the pump is running and the valve is in filter?
It'd be a good idea to add your pool info to your sig.
Do you have a good test kit? If not you really need one.
What does the Aquarite say the water temp is?
What is the filter pressure when the pump is running and the valve is in filter?
It'd be a good idea to add your pool info to your sig.
Do you have a good test kit? If not you really need one.
I have not replaced the sand since I got the pool (seven years) that was the main reason I was going to replace it. The water temp is around 56 degrees, and the filter pressue is 15 psi after the backwash. I usually let the pool place run the water test for me, but when I shut it down I was running 3200 ppm on my display. We haven't got that much rain this winter, so I was not dilluted that bad, I don't think.
At 56°F you're swg is probably shutting itself down due to cold water.
15 psig is a pretty good pressure for your filter. There have been lots of people here that have never changed the sand and have never had a problem. There are only a very few reasons to change the sand and it's very rare to happen.
There's a long thread about the issue Pool Clown mentioned that you can check out just to make sure that's not your problem.
I highly suggest you get your own test kit. Pool Store tests are notoriously wrong.
15 psig is a pretty good pressure for your filter. There have been lots of people here that have never changed the sand and have never had a problem. There are only a very few reasons to change the sand and it's very rare to happen.
There's a long thread about the issue Pool Clown mentioned that you can check out just to make sure that's not your problem.
I highly suggest you get your own test kit. Pool Store tests are notoriously wrong.
I read that long thread, and it sounds exactly like my problem. I will check the current limiter on the main board this afternoon. I will let ya'll know what I find. Thanks
I ordered the current limiter yesterday. I checked my board yesterday afternoon, and the current limiter (about the size of a quarter) was burnt and cracked. Hopefully when I replace it I will back in business. Thanks so much for the help.
I agree with Bama ,hold off on the sand,I changed mine after 7 years because I thought it was time to,(before I knew of this forum),and the pressure is a little higher now.
Thanks for all the answers I got, I changed the current limiter (resistor) on my main board and I am generating chlorine now. This forum is great!!! Thanks again.
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