My Chemical Goal & Target?

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J

JohnH

0
May 28, 2012
134
Flower Mound, TX
My first test with TF-100 kit :cool:

FC 4.0
CC .5
PH 8.2
TA 120
CH 380
CYA 90 (it was hard to read, plastic tube w/black dot cracked during shipment. There shipping a new tube out tomorrow.)

Notes: Tested 17th Mar and PH 8.2, added 2 qts of muriatic acid, 18th Mar PH lowered to 7.7, today its back up to 8.2.??

What would be my Pool Calculator Goal and Target readings? If my CYA is correct, the Chlorine/CYA chart is showing my FC should be 7-10?
This is a new pool, only had water in it for 2 weeks. Also, are my goals the same as the Recommended Level chart for plaster w/bleach?
Thanks,
John
 
Yes your goals should be what is in the Recommended levels chart.

With a high TA and apparently a lot of waterfalls and a spa, your pH will rise pretty quickly if you are aerating the water.

What have you added that made the CYA so high already? If that number is true, I would suggest replacing half the water again to get back to recommended levels before proceeding with anything else.

If you are not going to do that, then yes you need to keep the FC above 7ppm at all times.
You also will need to keep adding MA to lower the pH and the TA, but be careful because when the FC > 10ppm, the pH test becomes inaccurate.
 
jblizzle said:
Yes your goals should be what is in the Recommended levels chart.

With a high TA and apparently a lot of waterfalls and a spa, your pH will rise pretty quickly if you are aerating the water.

What have you added that made the CYA so high already? If that number is true, I would suggest replacing half the water again to get back to recommended levels before proceeding with anything else.

If you are not going to do that, then yes you need to keep the FC above 7ppm at all times.
You also will need to keep adding MA to lower the pH and the TA, but be careful because when the FC > 10ppm, the pH test becomes inaccurate.
Click to expand...


Thanks jblizzle,

Before I trust that CYA reading, I will wait for the new tube to arrive and retest. During the start up process, maybe the PB employer applied to much Cyanuric Acid. Since my pool school at home (given by PB company), I have only added 13 oz. of Cal-Hypo and 2.5 qts of muriatic acid.
 
jblizzle said:
Yes your goals should be what is in the Recommended levels chart.

With a high TA and apparently a lot of waterfalls and a spa, your pH will rise pretty quickly if you are aerating the water.

What have you added that made the CYA so high already? If that number is true, I would suggest replacing half the water again to get back to recommended levels before proceeding with anything else.

If you are not going to do that, then yes you need to keep the FC above 7ppm at all times.
You also will need to keep adding MA to lower the pH and the TA, but be careful because when the FC > 10ppm, the pH test becomes inaccurate.
Click to expand...

Silly question, but what is the easiest way to replace half the water. Backwashing?
Thanks, John
 
Fastest is to rent a submersible pump from Home Depot ... around here $28 for 4 hours (rent after 5PM and return by 9AM for the same price)

If you can isolate your floor drains as the only source of suction, you could use the Waste setting on the multi-valve to remove a good bit of water. But if you floor is plumbed to the skimmer, you would likely start sucking in air once the water level was below the skimmer. And if you only have a plunger backwash valve, probably not a good idea to use the backwash mode that much.
 
Thanks jblizzle for the info. Not sure what to do, just got this pool filled a couple a weeks ago. Water looks clear, maybe I will just bring my FC to 7 ppm till I decide. Seems kind of a waste to refill half the pool, and I only had under a month. Thanks, John

** I will use bleach or cal-hyd. to bring FC up, not the tric. pucks. Thats all need is more CYA :-D
 

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Others have taken care of answering, but I'll add my 2¢.

The CYA test is the hardest to do. Be sure you are accurate when you mix the sample with the reagent. Mix it good. It can take a while to completely react if the water is cold. Make sure you're in full sunlight, but not directly in the light, because the reflection off the water in the view tube can mess you up. After you get your reading, dump it back into the mixing bottle and try again. It may take ten readings to get 3 that agree.

Only when you're confidant of the CYA reading should you start draining water. We deal in facts, here.

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I agree with Richard. Don't do any draining before you're 100% sure of the CYA levels. Unless the pool builder added a ton of pucks I'd question that reading.
 
Thanks for all the info. I'm not going to do any draining at this time. I received the new CYA test tube yesterday, so I will do some testing today and post the levels. My thought is; if I need to lower CYA (30-50), I will get rid of the water little at a time by the recommended monthly back washing. It might take me all summer, for right now I will keep FC at the CYA recommendations. Thanks again,
John
 
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