Aquarite Not generating - lights not on

Mar 19, 2013
4
Aquarite system; t15 cell; 20k gal pool; 3300ppm salt; 1.5 total chlorine; 0 free chlorine; I added the recommended chemicals (conditioner) and ran system on super chlorinate for 24 hrs as recommended by pool store... after 24 hrs, noticed that neither power nor generating nor super chlorinate lights were on. they will intermittently appear (light up)...i can't isolate the conditions that make them light up. little black disc (mentioned below) looks "ok". when lights are off...diagnostics show low volts and 0 amps. once or twice, the generating light came on with no power light. now no lights on again...uggsss. I don't trust the pool stores...i fear they don't have a true expert who can diagnose the problem, rather i suspect they try and sell me a new board or system (or maybe just more chemicals!). Is this sympomatic of a bad current limiter?
 
I don't know where you are at, but some things to consider beyond the board would be water temp and water flow. If the water is too cold I am pretty sure the SWG will not produce chlorine. The other thing I would look at is the unit recognizing when the pump is on? If there is no water flow recognized, the unit will not produce chlorine. I hope that helps.
 
We're in AL. Water temp is 77 (we have a heater). Flow is ok...blinks "no flow" as it is supposed to for approx. 20 secs after pump is turned on...then no flow light disappears. after looking more at the circuit board...the "current limiter" has a think crack around it allowing it to separate (like a sandwich). if you hold the two parts close together, the power and generating light both come on. once you let go, the lights turn off within seconds. i've also talked with the manufacturer (goldline) and they confirmed that at least the "power" light should be on at all times (when the salt system is turned on). While they would never recommend attempting to work on any internal parts, the technician did mention that it was a relatively common problem (the current limiter).
 
If the limiter is cracked then it needs replacing. There's a long thread here about doing that. It would be a good thing to read if you haven't already. It's relatively easy to do and there are lots of success stories in that thread.

It's no surprise that the mfg doesn't suggest repairing the unit yourself. It's a liability issue for them, so they really can't suggest it. Also if you repair it yourself it takes another sale out of their pockets! :(
 
yes, i've read the thread... seems my symptoms are very similar to others who have had success replacing the limiter (but not all). I suppose it's worth a shot...what's the worse that can happen...i end up needing a new circuit board?! (so i'll just be out an additional $6)
 
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