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Thread: New Pool Owner - High PSI

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    New Pool Owner - High PSI

    My pool details are in my signature below. Also, here is a list of the chems I just got from my pool store:

    FAC : .26
    TAC : .37
    CH : 553
    CYA : 174
    TA : 78
    pH: 7.1

    It was recommended that I use 5 lb 15 oz of soda ash to raise the pH. Also, that I put one lb of liquid chlorine to shock it up to normal then have 2 3" jumbo tabs in the floater.

    The chems aren't concerning me as much as the pressure (psi). Before and After back washing, my PSI is running at 30. This was advised to be very high by my pool supply store. The only thing he could recommend was a new pump, which runs about $1,000. So I figured I would come get some subjective advice to see what else I may be able to do to lower the psi before going all in with a new pump ( which doesn't even seem very old to me). Although, I just bought thr house and have no real way to validate the age.

    Any advice that anyone could offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks much!!!!!
    ~20k Gal, Hayward Sand Filter (Model: S244SV), IG, Fiberglass, MagneTek Pump (1HP, Part# 7-177450-03)

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: New Pool Owner - High PSI

    Welcome to TFP!

    There are several things to worry about in your test results. Most importantly, CYA is way too high. I recommend replacing water to get CYA down to something reasonable (say 60). You aren't going to have much luck killing any algae you might have when CYA is that high. Replacing water will also bring down your CH level, which is also quite high.

    You wouldn't happen to have an in-floor cleaning system would you? Filter pressure around 30 psi is common with an in-floor cleaning systems.

    High pressure is a sign that your pump is working really well but there is a blockage of some kind in the flow of water after the pump. The most likely place for that is the filter, but there are several other possibilities. I would check any valves you have to make sure they are in the correct position. Another thing to check is the return jet pressure. High pressure should make the return jets weaker, or possibly only one return jet is weak and others are working?
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: New Pool Owner - High PSI

    Thanks for the welcome post!! I was notified by the pool supply store that I would have to drain and fill the pool in the very near future. They told me I should be able to get thru the summer, but next year it will be absolutely necessary. In terms of the ph and chorlene, do you think I was pointer n the right direction? I.e 5 lb soda ash and one lb of shock to bring ph and chlorine up?

    General filtering questions: I utilize the Hayward XL pool vac about once a week ( for between 4-5 hrs). I also have my filter running for 4 hrs per night right now. Do you think I should be running longer? I was advised to run one hour for every 10 degrees of outside temp (if its 80 outside. Should run for 8 hrs). That seems high to me, so I decided on 4 hrs per night until I'm using the pool frequently, then I was planning n running longer (maybe 6-8 per night). Do you have any advice?

    I do not have in ground cleaners, so I think I must have an issue with my valves or a blockage somewhere. I did notice it appears my valves are stripped because they just spin and spin without loosening or tightening at all. My question is, can the stripped valves be causing the high psi? The 2 blue ones on the right are the ones that are stripped. The smaller one on the left is for the aerator and functions. Do you have any ideas what those 2 blue valves control?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    ~20k Gal, Hayward Sand Filter (Model: S244SV), IG, Fiberglass, MagneTek Pump (1HP, Part# 7-177450-03)

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: New Pool Owner - High PSI

    I agree with Jason. No point in throwing chemicals and money into that water with the high CYA. Best to replace the water and take control for yourself ... by reading Pool School at the top of the page and ordering one of the recommended test kits.

    I am sure the pool store would be happy to sell you a bunch of voodoo to maybe get through the year. And then sell you a bunch of stuff to start new next year.

    Take control and save some time, effort and money.

    Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    Re: New Pool Owner - High PSI

    Can you post a picture of the whole equipment pad? Is the picture of the return line from the filter to the pool or the suction line from the pool to the pump?
    When you say it's stripped are you speaking of the blue handle spinning on the shaft or the entire shaft spinning in the valve? If its just the handle you could use a set of vise grips to turn the shaft.
    Either way it's simple to cut those valves out and replace with new.
    Ron- Kansas. IG fiberglass, Riviera 30 Freeform 13600 gallons,
    EasyTouch 4 w/IC20 SWCG, Pentair Whisperflo 1hp, 2 speed 220 pump, Hayward ProGrid 4820 DE filter using Eco Klean instead of DE, 2 Savi Melody 12v 5 color LEDs, Raypack 266k btu millivolt heater, Arctic Armour Mesh custom safety cover (Total self Install) TF-100 test kit w/Magic stir.

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    Re: New Pool Owner - High PSI

    I guess I'm just trying to delay the pain of paying the huge water bill and pump rental to do a full drain and fill..new homeowner and expenses have been adding up quick...any idea on how much the drain and fill would cost me? In terms of water and pump rental?

    I tried turning the valves with a vice grips and didn't have any luck...I'm going to go ahead and replace them to see if that does anything. I've included a wider angle picture for your reference...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    ~20k Gal, Hayward Sand Filter (Model: S244SV), IG, Fiberglass, MagneTek Pump (1HP, Part# 7-177450-03)

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: New Pool Owner - High PSI

    Home depot rents pumps for about $50, you can get the water cost by looking at your bill ... got me I hardly even notice when I have filled, but I am on a semi private well. You may bee able to have your bill reduced if you call the water company if you sewer is usually included.

    You will easily waste that amount of money trying magic potions from the pool store.

    Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
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    4knights's Avatar
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    Re: New Pool Owner - High PSI

    Have you called the local FD? They may come pump it out of your pool for free, and if you're nice they may bring the pumper truck back with a full load and filler back up! Worth a phone call to find out- ask about making a donation to the fund.
    The latest picture looks like you only have one suction line from the pool so the main drain and skimmer must be connected. The three pipes on the left with the valves- far left small line (pressure side cleaner or water feature? The other two must be return lines.)
    Ron- Kansas. IG fiberglass, Riviera 30 Freeform 13600 gallons,
    EasyTouch 4 w/IC20 SWCG, Pentair Whisperflo 1hp, 2 speed 220 pump, Hayward ProGrid 4820 DE filter using Eco Klean instead of DE, 2 Savi Melody 12v 5 color LEDs, Raypack 266k btu millivolt heater, Arctic Armour Mesh custom safety cover (Total self Install) TF-100 test kit w/Magic stir.

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: New Pool Owner - High PSI

    The handles on the valves spin without ever stopping, then the handle is no longer connected to the valve. So, if the valve is stuck partially closed, that would cause higher pressure.

    I would highly recommend replacing them with true pool valves (like the Neverlube). They are more expensive, but do not typically fail like these gate valves of the PVC ball valves and if there is a problem, the internal parts are replaceable, meaning you do not have to redo the plumbing.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
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    Re: New Pool Owner - High PSI

    The smaller valve on the left is in fact for the aerator (the thing that squirts the water up in the air and back into the pool). I am definitely going to replace those valves. So you think I can get those neverlube valves at the local Home Depot?

    Thanks for the idea on the FD, I will definitely give them a call.

    In the meantime, what would happen to the water if the Chem levels remain high as they currently are?
    ~20k Gal, Hayward Sand Filter (Model: S244SV), IG, Fiberglass, MagneTek Pump (1HP, Part# 7-177450-03)

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    Re: New Pool Owner - High PSI

    Your CYA means you have to keep an unusually high FC level.
    Built in 1957 44,000 gallon in-ground, Wet Edge Primera Stone in Sky Blue, Intelliflo VF Pump, 600 lb. Pentair Triton II TR-100 Sand Filter, CircuPool RG 60 Plus SWG, TF-100 test kit
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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: New Pool Owner - High PSI

    You will not find the pool valves at a hardware store. You might find them at a pool store, but likely cheaper to order online. They are ~$40 each online, but have lifetime warranty.

    Jandy makes the Neverlube, but Pentair and Hayward also have similar valves.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
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    Re: New Pool Owner - High PSI

    Any advice that anyone could offer would be greatly appreciated.
    Probably the biggest thing you'll have to decide is following the advice on this forum or the advice from the pool store. I don't mean that to be at all negative but it will be difficult if you continue to listen to what they say and what we say.....it will be different and the two likely won't work well together.

    The next thing is to head on up to our Pool School and read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry". It'll help you get an idea of what's important and what you can ignore. YOu cannot ignore chlorine and you have virtually none in your pool. Having the CYA as high as yours MIGHT be also causes more problems because it makes the chlorine less effective.

    In my opinion, you cannot get through the summer and manage your pool successfully with the current parameters you have. On top of that, pool store test results are usually quite a bit out of whack so you need to get your own good test kit and start reporting your results......we'll trust those a lot more.

    If I owned your pool, I would...

    1. Drain 50% of the pool water and replace with fresh....it doesn't cost that much compared to what you'll spend fighting what you have.

    2. Order a test kit

    3. Get some chlorine in your pool just as soon as you drain down and then start to refill

    4. Get the valves fixed. It is likely you are hurting your circulation.

    5. Test your tap water and report the results on the forum.

    6. Once that's done, you can begin to get a manageable pool.

    Back to the first paragraph, I really think that's your first decision.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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