I was looking at these SWG's for my inground pool. Didn't knowif anyone here had any experience with them...
Thanks
Thanks
Compupool any good?
- Thread starter mattfort
- Start date
Seanhan
0
I just put in a Circupool RJ60
I was impresed by the quality of the unit , the entire back of the unit is a cast heatsink to disapate heat . The clear cell is also cool !!! A WOW factor !!
You can see it making clorine !!!
So far so good only time will tell .
I got the extra long cell cable 15 foot, and i replaced the power cord (6 foot) , with a longer wire in conduet. I put the unit up under the eaves to protect it , no rain and no direct sunlight ..
Hope that helps it last longer , but it did add a few days to the install, if you count getting supplies.
But overall it looks like a well constructed unit ..
Pics to follow soon ....
I was impresed by the quality of the unit , the entire back of the unit is a cast heatsink to disapate heat . The clear cell is also cool !!! A WOW factor !!
You can see it making clorine !!!
So far so good only time will tell .
I got the extra long cell cable 15 foot, and i replaced the power cord (6 foot) , with a longer wire in conduet. I put the unit up under the eaves to protect it , no rain and no direct sunlight ..
Hope that helps it last longer , but it did add a few days to the install, if you count getting supplies.
But overall it looks like a well constructed unit ..
Pics to follow soon ....
blakeusa
In The Industry
I have found them to be VERY unsafe.
The 220 V power cord is basically plugged into the back of the cell with two prongs that can and have come loose.
At my friends pool he had replaced the cord once because it became loose and melted. After the second time the cord to the cell came loose it melted the cell and basically there was 220V power in contact with flowing water.
I have pictures of all -- and the company told me not to worry. They would honor the warranty and give a 30 percent credit toward a new system.
Again I sent them pics of the melted cord, melted cell, and explained how electricity can travel through water....
This connection should be hard wired, soldered and water tight.
Will find the pics and post them up.
Sure the cells work, but the cord is a huge concern when your running 220V and its a press on, not even screw or locking cord.
The 220 V power cord is basically plugged into the back of the cell with two prongs that can and have come loose.
At my friends pool he had replaced the cord once because it became loose and melted. After the second time the cord to the cell came loose it melted the cell and basically there was 220V power in contact with flowing water.
I have pictures of all -- and the company told me not to worry. They would honor the warranty and give a 30 percent credit toward a new system.
Again I sent them pics of the melted cord, melted cell, and explained how electricity can travel through water....
This connection should be hard wired, soldered and water tight.
Will find the pics and post them up.
Sure the cells work, but the cord is a huge concern when your running 220V and its a press on, not even screw or locking cord.
Seanhan
0
I'm happy with my unit overall. Couple of hickups. Nothing that the company didn't take care of.
Here's my story: cpsc48-install-mostly-new-reports-of-pool-conditions-t32089.html?hilit=compupool%20install
Here's my story: cpsc48-install-mostly-new-reports-of-pool-conditions-t32089.html?hilit=compupool%20install
Blake, I'm pretty sure that the cell doesn't see 220 volts or anything even close to that. Where did you get that info?blakeusa said:
Only minor issue I had was a calibration thing. Simple to fix. Other than that, no issues at all.
- Mar 24, 2013
- 18
I installed a RJ45 this past weekend, it was very easy and seems to be producing chlorine nicely, I can see it through the cell!
Agree with Bama Rambler the cell does not operate on 220-240vac, but on a reduced dc voltage I believe its 24vdc, but I'll have to check.
But still, you don't want 24vdc running through your pool either.
Agree with Bama Rambler the cell does not operate on 220-240vac, but on a reduced dc voltage I believe its 24vdc, but I'll have to check.
But still, you don't want 24vdc running through your pool either.
The very way a swcg works is by passing current through the water between the cell plates and it's perfectly safe. Yes it's low voltage DC and any stray voltage gets drained off.
Seanhan
0
Seanhan
0
- Mar 24, 2013
- 18
Seanhan
0
Seanhan
0
Circupool RJ60 update , well it's been a few weeks now and the unit is dialed in at 60% and 6 hours run time .
The chemical's are on the money and stable, using the recommended settings from pool school for Fiberglass, SWG
Looks like its going to be a awesome clean and sparkling pool this summer with little trouble .
The TF-100 test kit has made all the difference !!!! Worth every penny !!! If you don't have one it will repay you many times over, and the pool calculater is just awesome !!!! Everybody can't believe how clean the water is !!!!
The chemical's are on the money and stable, using the recommended settings from pool school for Fiberglass, SWG
Looks like its going to be a awesome clean and sparkling pool this summer with little trouble .
The TF-100 test kit has made all the difference !!!! Worth every penny !!! If you don't have one it will repay you many times over, and the pool calculater is just awesome !!!! Everybody can't believe how clean the water is !!!!
CPSC36 on my pool for the third year. Control board was replaced once under warranty; fantastic customer service. Other than that, very trouble-free.
Seanhan
0
What % are you running and what run time ???
I have a RJ60. And a 30k gallon pool .. Running around 50-60 and 6-7 hours
Think i need to try 40 next..
I have a RJ60. And a 30k gallon pool .. Running around 50-60 and 6-7 hours
Think i need to try 40 next..
blakeusa
In The Industry
Enclosed are TWO different Circupool Power Cords that melted due to a poor connection with the cell.
This power connection -is pushed onto the back of the salt cell-- with no set screw, twist lock, or securing device etc is unacceptable. And yes this unit's power center runs at 220V.
I have also found the systems to produce chlorine as long as the cell is energized, VS Pentair which only produces when there is water flow.
The second time the cord melted - it also melted the cell. The customer picked up the energizerd cord before they called me to come look at it.
The Company's response was to offer a new system at 20% off. This was after buying the second replacement cord for like $80 and installing it.
I can buy Pentair at 40% off at the pool supply house.
This power connection -is pushed onto the back of the salt cell-- with no set screw, twist lock, or securing device etc is unacceptable. And yes this unit's power center runs at 220V.
I have also found the systems to produce chlorine as long as the cell is energized, VS Pentair which only produces when there is water flow.
The second time the cord melted - it also melted the cell. The customer picked up the energizerd cord before they called me to come look at it.
The Company's response was to offer a new system at 20% off. This was after buying the second replacement cord for like $80 and installing it.
I can buy Pentair at 40% off at the pool supply house.
My Jandy cell cord also melted on me once, 24V is plenty at the amperage they're pushing through them. You can't JUST look at the voltage or amperage, it's a combination of the two. I'm not saying it's totally danger free but it's nowhere near as dangerous as a 220V AC line. Did it damage the cell or control unit?
Sounds like the flow sensor isn't working either.
Either there is a flaw with the connector or it's coming loose somehow would be my guess. It looks like it has a keying notch but you might be able to plug it in rotated 180 degrees and get a bad (flaky or high resistance due to partial contact) connection. Maybe not the best design but there is a chance it could be the fault of the person connecting it or something in the environment knocking it loose.
Sounds like the flow sensor isn't working either.
Either there is a flaw with the connector or it's coming loose somehow would be my guess. It looks like it has a keying notch but you might be able to plug it in rotated 180 degrees and get a bad (flaky or high resistance due to partial contact) connection. Maybe not the best design but there is a chance it could be the fault of the person connecting it or something in the environment knocking it loose.
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