Can anyone discus with me the virtues of a renovation that is chipped out (chip out edges and rough all surface, acid, and powerwash) then polymer resin/concrete bond roll coated vs one that is bond coated with out a full chipping of surface (cut out a few inches at the tile line and returns, etc. plus any weak plaster areas).
I read about the micro-environments of poor contact and the potential that this creates for calcium volcanoes. With the full surface chipped, is this more or less likely?
I will guess that the answer is "depends on the skill of the applicator". So, the guy that chips out has a crew that each member has been with him 10 years or more. I think I trust him. Money aside, as he is also less cost, in part due to the things he is talking me out of.
He says he can acid wash the waterline deposits for cheaper than a bead blast. He says that sealing the water fall is a bad idea (maybe this depends on the sealant?) He says that he can acid wash/power wash the exposed aggregate pool decking to look wonderful so I can pass on the Kool Deck resurfacing. Each of these things can be done after he is gone.
He also does a start up using Startup Tec and says it is done in 3 days with minimal dust. Instructions suggest this is low acid type start up. My fill water is high TA 220 ppm and low CH 20 ppm with resting pH of 8.2+.
He is typically a sub for pool construction companies, runs, I forgot, maybe 6 crews full time. I like this guy.
As for the tilting equipment pad, 3 parts, he says to leave the heater alone (gas and electric issues) and just add more supporting stones to the edge alongside what is there now that is keeping that level and steady. Then pull and redo the cart filter pad. And leave the pumps pad alone just shim the pumps better than they are now, maybe with clamps or something. (I suspect that since I will pull those pumps to have them resealed, we can reset the pad then).