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Thread: chip vs no chip

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    chip vs no chip

    Can anyone discus with me the virtues of a renovation that is chipped out (chip out edges and rough all surface, acid, and powerwash) then polymer resin/concrete bond roll coated vs one that is bond coated with out a full chipping of surface (cut out a few inches at the tile line and returns, etc. plus any weak plaster areas).

    I read about the micro-environments of poor contact and the potential that this creates for calcium volcanoes. With the full surface chipped, is this more or less likely?

    I will guess that the answer is "depends on the skill of the applicator". So, the guy that chips out has a crew that each member has been with him 10 years or more. I think I trust him. Money aside, as he is also less cost, in part due to the things he is talking me out of.

    He says he can acid wash the waterline deposits for cheaper than a bead blast. He says that sealing the water fall is a bad idea (maybe this depends on the sealant?) He says that he can acid wash/power wash the exposed aggregate pool decking to look wonderful so I can pass on the Kool Deck resurfacing. Each of these things can be done after he is gone.

    He also does a start up using Startup Tec and says it is done in 3 days with minimal dust. Instructions suggest this is low acid type start up. My fill water is high TA 220 ppm and low CH 20 ppm with resting pH of 8.2+.

    He is typically a sub for pool construction companies, runs, I forgot, maybe 6 crews full time. I like this guy.

    As for the tilting equipment pad, 3 parts, he says to leave the heater alone (gas and electric issues) and just add more supporting stones to the edge alongside what is there now that is keeping that level and steady. Then pull and redo the cart filter pad. And leave the pumps pad alone just shim the pumps better than they are now, maybe with clamps or something. (I suspect that since I will pull those pumps to have them resealed, we can reset the pad then).
    23,000 gallon in ground pool with rock waterfall and spillover spa, Aqualink control system, Polaris 380 cleaner, Purex Triton Clean&Clear Plus cartridge filter. Located in The Woodlands, Texas.

    Pool owner since Nov 2008, Trouble Free since April 2009. Happy to help when I can.

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: chip vs no chip

    If the underlying plaster is solid and completely free of delamination, applying another coat on top (with proper prep) is fine. If the existing plaster is coming loose in places it should be completely chipped out.

    There is no such thing as a three day new plaster startup. Products like Startup Tec can reduce the amount of plaster dust, which can potentially reduce the amount of acid used and perhaps even reduce the amount of brushing you need to do, but the startup process still takes the same total amount of time.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: chip vs no chip

    Thanks, I think regarding the startup time he meant the days of dealing with plaster dust. I offered to maintain the chemistry and he would send me a guy to do the brushing, that is what he suggested would take 3 days.
    23,000 gallon in ground pool with rock waterfall and spillover spa, Aqualink control system, Polaris 380 cleaner, Purex Triton Clean&Clear Plus cartridge filter. Located in The Woodlands, Texas.

    Pool owner since Nov 2008, Trouble Free since April 2009. Happy to help when I can.

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