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Thread: New pool problems

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    New pool problems

    I just installed an inground pool last summer. The pool was finished in June but the decking took until sept to finish. I have a liner pool with a cartridge filter. They installed the frog system but the more I'm reading on that I'm thinking of not using it. The chemicals are VERY expensive. They also told me id have to shock it once a week because All last summer the pump was running and the pool kept turning green just using the frog and it always felt slimy, i just cant see where thats right. I had a pool growing up and one years ago that I always took care of and I know it shouldn't cost that much and I never had to shock that much.

    I recently ordered the t100 test kit. I tested the water this morning and the results were
    Fc 16ppm
    Cc 0
    Ph 7.6
    Alk 90 ppm
    Cya 30
    Calcium 30 ppm

    I'm not sure if I'm right because the instructions in the test kit seems like Greek to me but I'm thinking the fc is high. Probably because I had to shock it last week because it turned green again. Im amazed that using the frog im still having to shock the pool in the winter. The water temp is 58. Also the calcium seemed low but does that matter because it's a vinyl pool?

    One other problem I am having is the pool has over flowed twice in the past few months and the liner has buckled and left wrinkles. The pool also overflowed last year during issac and stayed that way for days because we had no electricity but it didn't buckle. The pool ppl had to come out after the hurricane and drain the pool and pull up the liner to fix mistakes they made on the bottom and now it's wrinkling when it over flows. I called them they said that happens when we get a lot of rain. In two pools that I've had before that's never happened. I've talked to friends that live in lower areas than me and that never happens to them either. I don't even have standing water in my yard, I just can't understand why it's doing this.

    Needless to say I do not trust the people that installed my pool. They screwed up on so much from the very beginning. Any suggestions?
    16x32 liner pool, system 3 modular cartridge filter. K-2006 test kit

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    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Dallas, TX

    Re: New pool problems

    We recommend not using the frog system around here. If your water is still green, can you post a picture of it?

    That is high for FC, but it'll come down on its own. What product are you using to "shock" your pool?

    I have "shock" in parenthesis, because around here shocking is a process, not a product. You can read about it, and many other things, in Pool School. You need to get the shock process complete in your pool, and you will need to decide how you want to keep your pool sanitized. Around here most people use plain old bleach, as in Clorox or equivalent.
    Built in 1957 44,000 gallon in-ground, Wet Edge Primera Stone in Sky Blue, Intelliflo VF Pump, 600 lb. Pentair Triton II TR-100 Sand Filter, CircuPool RG 60 Plus SWG, TF-100 test kit
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  3. Back To Top    #3

    Re: New pool problems

    The pool isn't green anymore it's back clear again.

    I just threw in 2 bags of the shock it that the pool people told me to use.

    I'm thinking about doing the bbb method of sanitizing my pool. I ordered the test kit to see where I needed to start. I now have to go purchase bleach.
    16x32 liner pool, system 3 modular cartridge filter. K-2006 test kit

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    linen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Twin Cities, MN

    Re: New pool problems

    Welcome to tfp, Kjoyce2240

    Like RobbieH said, we recommend against using the frog system on pools. And make sure you read up on the shocking process.

    I am a little surprised that your cya is that low. The pool frog "bacpac" uses stabilized chlorine, so your cya should likely be significantly higher then you measured. What test kit did you use to make that cya measurement?
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Re: New pool problems

    I'm now using the Taylor k-2006 is what the Box says. I'm guessing the cya is low because the pool over flowed twice in one day last week we have had a lot of rain. I quit using the frog last week and when I was using it the chlorine never registered on the cheap kit that I received from the pool co. I know it's suppose to be low chlorine but I just think you need some to kill the bacteria. Then again what do I know. I just done feel confident in using it.
    16x32 liner pool, system 3 modular cartridge filter. K-2006 test kit

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    Casey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    SW PA

    Re: New pool problems

    Welcome to TFP! While you are waiting for your test kit and swimming season to get here, read Pool School a few times front and back. It will help you get a grip on your pool and how the chemistry of *BBB* works. As far as the wrinkles go, I can't help you but it has to be frustrating to have all those wrinkles just from overflow.

    Enjoy your stay at TFP!
    I'd bet you my bikini you'll never get TFP water from a pool store!

    24' Sharkline Venture De Filter

  7. Back To Top    #7

    Re: New pool problems

    I Already have my kit I used it this morning.

    I've been looking at pool school all day learning. I'm going to buy bleach tomorrow. I may not need it for a while since my fc is 16. I'm started to wish I'd put in a salt water system. Every pool company talked me out of it because it was so corrosive and because of my waterfall they didn't recommend it, they all said to use a low chlorine system. I'm thinking now they were just trying to keep me coming back to them.
    16x32 liner pool, system 3 modular cartridge filter. K-2006 test kit

  8. Back To Top    #8
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Tucson, AZ

    Re: New pool problems

    As others have state ... read Pool School multiple times ... always something more to learn. Specifically about the shock process. I would recommend you actually follow this process now as the likelihood that everything is dead now is low. Once you pass the 3 tests to stop the process, then you will be able to focus on maintain the clean pool.

    FYI, the shock FC level for you CYA of 30ppm is 12ppm. You want to maintain the FC at this level until the shock process is complete. Likely your FC will drop from 16 to 12ppm in 1-2 days.

    Actually review the pool-school/overnight_fc_test and you could perform it tonight to see how much the FC drops ... that will tell you if something is still living in the pool.

    Following the methods here really is a "low chlorine" solution. The active chlorine is MUCH MUCH less than you will find in public pools due to the use of the CYA stabilizer.

    BTW, you can add a SWG whenever you like, but they are really more about convenience than anything else.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
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  9. Back To Top    #9
    BoDarville's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    DFW, Texas

    Re: New pool problems

    Quote Originally Posted by Kjoyce2240
    I just threw in 2 bags of the shock it that the pool people told me to use.
    Most prepackaged bags of "Shock" products contain either CYA or calcium. Routine and indiscriminate use of these products will lead to abnormally high levels of these ingredients. The higher your CYA level, the more chlorine (FC) you need to use to get adequate sanitation until the amount needed becomes impractical to manage. High levels of calcium can lead to scaling. I would stick with plain liquid bleach for chlorination in day-to-day maintenance and when going through the shock process.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kjoyce2240
    Also the calcium seemed low but does that matter because it's a vinyl pool?
    Vinyl pools don't need calcium as do plaster and, to a lesser extent, fiberglass pools. Given your calcium of 30ppm, I would let it be.
    Gold Supporter, TFP Lifetime Supporter, 26,680 gal Plaster IGP 3.5 - 10' depth / Attached Waterfall Spa, Manually Chlorinated, Triton Sand Filter, 1.5 HP * 1.1 SF = 1.65 SFHP 1-speed Pentair WhisperFlo WF-26 Pump, 400K BTU NG Teledyne Laars Series One Heater, Polaris 360, Test Kit Comparison, Chlorine/CYA Chart, SLAMing Your Pool, OCLT
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