I took a sample of water to Leslie's Pool Supply today and the owner of the store told me that the water is horribly acidic. She is usually the one to push products on people to the point of almost aggrivation, and told me today that buying anything for this water is a waste. She recommended the pool be drained and refilled for a fresh start. Now since I'm not the most pool savy person in the world, I am coming to you "The People of Perfect Water" to ask for help. I can get you test strip readings if you want but was told the acid level will give false readings on those? Thank you in advance for your help.
battery acid?
- Thread starter E-ROC
- Start date
1. She is incorrect. The pH can be adjusted....no need to drain
2. What do your test strips say?
2. What do your test strips say?
First, you need a good test kit. We recommend either the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 kit (http://tftestkits.net/Test-Kits-c4/). For now, what were the results from the pool store?
If all that is wrong is the PH, then it is very easy to fix. If there are other things happening at the same time, like a very high CYA levels, then water replacement might be in order.
Very low PH will damage your pool, more so the longer the PH stays low. I recommend dealing with this as quickly as practical.
As the others mentioned, everything starts with water test results. Getting a top quality kit of your own is highly recommended. In the mean time post any test results you have (and tell us where they are from).
Very low PH will damage your pool, more so the longer the PH stays low. I recommend dealing with this as quickly as practical.
As the others mentioned, everything starts with water test results. Getting a top quality kit of your own is highly recommended. In the mean time post any test results you have (and tell us where they are from).
from the aqua check 7 by hach i got these numbers.
total hardness=250ppm
total cl=3ppm
total bromine=5
free cl=3ppm
ph=less than 6.2
total alkalinity=0ppm
cyanuric acid=0ppm
from the hth 3-way test kit.
cl=1ppm
br=2
ph=below chart
total hardness=250ppm
total cl=3ppm
total bromine=5
free cl=3ppm
ph=less than 6.2
total alkalinity=0ppm
cyanuric acid=0ppm
from the hth 3-way test kit.
cl=1ppm
br=2
ph=below chart
What are you using to chlorinate your pool? If you are using tabs, there is no way your CYA (cyanuric acid) is zero. The other possibility is granular chlorine, which either adds calcium or CYA. Also, I believe if your alkalinity is truly zero, that means your pH is about 2.
We have one of those tall cylinders that you stack the cl pucks into and adjust the water flow thru it manually. I checked the puck holder and it is empty. For how long I am not sure.
It couldn't have been empty for too long if cl is showing up in the test. (I'm correct about this, right?) Since you are using pucks, there is no way the CYA is zero. (This is also correct, right?) On a side note, this may explain why the pH is so low. The pucks are very acidic, and so lower pH.
Yes all the way around.JohnN said:
Before anything is done to that pool, a proper test kit is needed.
I'd add 10 lbs of baking soda and then check the pH again.
I wouldn't wait on a new test kit to do that.
I do recommend getting a TF-100 and it'll get to you fast but if you really have zero TA you need to get it up now. Even if the test you have is wrong and you overshoot the TA you can always bring it back down. Adjusting it won't cost a lot either, so if you have to drain after you add the baking soda you won't have wasted much money.
I wouldn't wait on a new test kit to do that.
I do recommend getting a TF-100 and it'll get to you fast but if you really have zero TA you need to get it up now. Even if the test you have is wrong and you overshoot the TA you can always bring it back down. Adjusting it won't cost a lot either, so if you have to drain after you add the baking soda you won't have wasted much money.
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,668
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
Bama Rambler said:
Bama - why just baking soda and not also some Washing Soda? Does the pH come up very quickly with the added TA when you go from 0 to something rational? Or is it mainly to get TA close before adjusting the pH since pH will drift less once there is a reasonable TA level.
Washing soda would have worked, but baking soda is usually easier to find and with baking soda and then borax you have more control over each parameter. Also if you overshoot the TA a little it doesn't hurt anything but if you overshoot the pH you start seesawing and we don't want that.
E-ROC said:
These guys are the experts, not me. But is it possible to have 3ppm chlorine and 5ppm bromine?
The bromine and chlorine test is the same, there is just a scale for each on the same test. Since this is a chlorine pool you can just disregard the bromine reading.
Will be very interested when you get some more test results. Can't wait to see what they want you to throw away.