Problem with lights on Hayward Aqua Rite

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Papix2

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Feb 10, 2013
5
Hi, this is my first Post!

I have a Hayward Aqua Rite Swg. My pool turned green. I took the water to be tested and found out there was no chlorine. I explained that when I looked at the display, the display would cycle thru the numbers, but the lights were all out. The pool store told me to clean and reset the cell.

I cleaned the cell (t-9) and reset the unit (held the diag button for a few seconds). When I turned on the system I saw that the no flow would flash for a few seconds (~15) then the power and generating light would turn on. After 10 seconds all of the lights would turn off. While staring at the unit I noticed that about every 2 minutes the power and generating lights would turn on for a few seconds before turning off again.

Any ideas as to what could be the problem could be? If I have to replace the board I will but from what I was reading on previous post the members were able to fix the problem by means other than replacing the board.

I appreciate any and all help!

Thanks,
Luis

I have an IG 15k plaster pool with 150 cartridge 1.5 hp pump and navigator robot.
 
Hi Luis,
With the unit off, unplug the cell and inspect the cell plug. Sometimes a little corrosion or insect debris will disrupt the connection and fool the board into thinking that there is no water flow. If that is not it, I would need to know the age of both the control box and the cell to offer more advice.
Good luck,
Don
 
Just checked the plug and connectors, all look ok. The unit was purchased and installed in December 2009.

I have been reading a previous post (Aquarite Not generating - lights Not on) where others have had similar problems and had success when replacing the current limiter. My CL looks good (AS32 2R025). do you think that may be the problem? If so which one do I order (570-1105-ND)?

My readings are:
3000
75
10.6
0.00
95p
-0
AL-0
r1.5
t-9

Thanks,
Luis
 
Yes, that is the proper part number. They are cheap and easy so you might try that first before condemning the board. (To test the current limiter, you need to unsolder one leg so you might as well just change it.) In my experience though, bad ones are usually brittle and show signs of overheating. If you run your system year around or 24/7 in the season, your cell may also be at or beyond it's useful life.
Hope this helps,
Don
 
Hi Luis,

The problem you describe is one of two possible issues:

Possibility 1- The fuse on the main circuit board is blown. You will find this fuse on the main board (the largest board) on the right had side, it has a plastic yellow top. You will have to pull it out and visually inspect the fuse to see if it is blown. This usually happens if their is a power surge. Inside your owners manual the manufacture usually tapes an extra fuse to the cover. If you cannot find the extra fuse take the old one to your local electronics supply store, or to your pool store if they are a really good pool store they will have a replacement.

Possibility 2- The SCR on the main circuit board is blown. The SCR is a round black disc soldered to the circuit board, you will find it at the very top center of the board. If that is blown then you will need to replace the main circuit board. Part number for the main board is GLX-PCB-RITE.

Best of luck,

Jim Garrison
The Guru Of Pools
 
GuruOfPools said:
Possibility 2- The SCR on the main circuit board is blown. The SCR is a round black disc soldered to the circuit board, you will find it at the very top center of the board. If that is blown then you will need to replace the main circuit board. Part number for the main board is GLX-PCB-RITE.
Click to expand...
Why can't the SCR be replaced also?
 

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