My Hayward multiport (SPO714) had been leaking from the flange connecting it to filter (S220T). I attempted to remove it to replace the O-ring and found the diffuser broken off and now stuck to top of standpipe. Any suggestions on how to get this off without damaging pipe?
How to remove stuck multiport diffuser
- Thread starter jff6791
- Start date
It should come off with a little force, try wiggling the stuck piece back and forth. Or you might have to "shimmy" the stand pipe up through the sand, and remove standpipe and laterals to be able to get that stuck piece off (a little tap with a rubber mallet at this point is what I am thinking of). The problem with this is that in order to get everything back together you will have to remove all the sand to get the standpipe and laterals back in correctly. If you need to clean or change your sand this might be the way to go.
Thanks for the reply. I just replaced the sand a few years ago so would like to avoid that exercise again. The problem is getting a grip on the diffuser since it's flush with the tank opening. I may try sliding something thin (hacksaw blade or boning knife) between standpipe and diffuser to see if the seal can be broken. One would think more than a single phillips screw would have been used to hold the diffuser on to the body of multiport.
So got it off with knife, silcone spray lube and two screwdrivers inserted thru radially opposite holes in diffuser which allowed enough torque to break it free.
PJ said:
yeah -thanks! But like the TV ad says: "there's more!!". Put everything back together after changing tank O-ring (my original task b/c the flange had a slow leak) and now the lower fitting on multiport is leaking (worse than original leak). So took that apart, changed the hose fitting, re-taped and still leaks from bottom at threads. Is teflon tape still recommended here or is something else better? I can't see anything obviously wrong with the female threads on the port.
Check closely for a split and if you don't have one I suggest using sealing paste for plastic threads. It works better to me than T-tape.
Checked good and could not see any cracks in or around female port. Did some digging in archives re opinions on what prep to use on plastic/plastic threaded fittings. Quite a variety -from no tape to tape alone, paste alone, tape with paste, etc. On another site I came across someone who contacted Hayward and their recommendation was three layers of teflon plus silicone sealant on top. So that's whats on there now since I had those items on hand. I'll give it overnite to cure and fire it up tomorrow. Thanks for everyones feedback.
To follow up - this combination has been holding for three days with zero drips. Ended up letting it set 24 hrs before running pump.