Also new here, need some advice
- Thread starter mhoy
- Start date
Thanks. Should I blot up the Vitamin C after the spot comes out or just let it go into the pool water?
I started the re-fill, I'll stop in a couple of hours before I go to bed, but it looks like it will take quite some time... I'll add bleach as I go.
I started the re-fill, I'll stop in a couple of hours before I go to bed, but it looks like it will take quite some time... I'll add bleach as I go.
I would suck up the stain/vitamin c so the metal does not go back in the water.
If you add bleach, you have to make sure it is mixed by brushing or stirring.
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
If you add bleach, you have to make sure it is mixed by brushing or stirring.
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
Thanks for the quickly reply. I'll blot up the stain and be sure to mix the bleach and water as I go.
Mark
Mark
Pool is clean and looking fabulous!!!! Thanks everyone.
Is there anything I should do while the pool is warming with very little CYA ? ? ?
Have the floating thing dispensing chlorine and CYA. Going to get 6 lbs of CYA at Lowes and putting it in a sock near the return. If I run into 20 Mule Team borax, I'll be getting 8 boxes. I'll take it all slowly so that nothing jumps around too quickly.
According to the Pool Calculator, the CYA will lower pH by about .5 while the Borax will raise it by 2.5. I'll adjust pH as needed (1 gallon 3 cups of 31% acid).
I'll boost the chlorine levels with some 10% liquid chlorine (also from Lowes) to keep it in the 3-5 range.
Testing shows:
FC 1.5 ppm
CC 0
TA 80 ppm
CYA 0
pH 7.5
Is there anything I should do while the pool is warming with very little CYA ? ? ?
Have the floating thing dispensing chlorine and CYA. Going to get 6 lbs of CYA at Lowes and putting it in a sock near the return. If I run into 20 Mule Team borax, I'll be getting 8 boxes. I'll take it all slowly so that nothing jumps around too quickly.
According to the Pool Calculator, the CYA will lower pH by about .5 while the Borax will raise it by 2.5. I'll adjust pH as needed (1 gallon 3 cups of 31% acid).
I'll boost the chlorine levels with some 10% liquid chlorine (also from Lowes) to keep it in the 3-5 range.
Testing shows:
FC 1.5 ppm
CC 0
TA 80 ppm
CYA 0
pH 7.5
PH is fine now. Let the CYA maybe lower it some instead of the acid, you may not need the borax at all.
Orchard Hardware Store (OSH) had the granulated CYA and along with some other stuff used one of our Boy Scout $10 off a $50 coupon. I was thinking of going for a borated pool but since OSH didn't have any 20 Mule Team I didn't get any. Got a pumice stone to try on the calcium deposits... this is going to take a while. May try the acid/water spray at some point when the kids are not around.
Still, very, very pleased with having a sparkling clear pool and the knowledge of how to keep it that way.
Still, very, very pleased with having a sparkling clear pool and the knowledge of how to keep it that way.
I was watching HGTV two days ago and I swore I saw this pool on there!mhoy said:After pix
Before (in December)
Perhaps Anthony's pool uses the same pool plan in multiple places? This one is certainly a bit too large for the back yard, but it's what came with the house.
Many questions....
I was contemplating re-plumbing the pad so that I could draw water from the pool over flow, pool drain or spa drain, and be able to return water to pool and/or spa.
Remove the 1 HP spa pump and 1 hp pool pump and replace them with a Pentair VS variable speed pump. I don't see many 1 HP variable speed pumps, can 3 HP be dial down enough??
If I also fixed the solar controller, then I could in theory boost the spa temp to a more pleasant temp.
My pool goes from a starting temp of 71 in pool to 75 pool with 4-5 hours. So 4 degree rise of 25k gallons x 8.3 lb/g = 207k lbs x 4 degrees = 800k BTU There are what looks like 6 runs of 20' black plastic panels on the roof (according to google maps, haven't climbed onto second story to really seem them yet).
Even if more inefficient at higher temps, I should be able to have a toasty spa.
May also replace the booster pump + Polaris with a robot to cut down a bit of noise from the booster.
I was contemplating re-plumbing the pad so that I could draw water from the pool over flow, pool drain or spa drain, and be able to return water to pool and/or spa.
Remove the 1 HP spa pump and 1 hp pool pump and replace them with a Pentair VS variable speed pump. I don't see many 1 HP variable speed pumps, can 3 HP be dial down enough??
If I also fixed the solar controller, then I could in theory boost the spa temp to a more pleasant temp.
My pool goes from a starting temp of 71 in pool to 75 pool with 4-5 hours. So 4 degree rise of 25k gallons x 8.3 lb/g = 207k lbs x 4 degrees = 800k BTU There are what looks like 6 runs of 20' black plastic panels on the roof (according to google maps, haven't climbed onto second story to really seem them yet).
Even if more inefficient at higher temps, I should be able to have a toasty spa.
May also replace the booster pump + Polaris with a robot to cut down a bit of noise from the booster.
Should I post plumbing questions in a different thread? Or keep this all together with my pool?
Thanks
Thanks
The larger VS pumps have no problem running low enough. But you might save more upfront looking at the smaller SuperPump VS it there is a Pentair that I can not think of the name of ... Check their website.
OK, guess I've been reading this forum too much as I just purchased a ton of upgrades and changes for my current dated pool setup.
1. Aquabot Rapids 4WD pool cleaner - get to remove 3/4 HP boost pump
2. Pentair Intelliflo Variable Speed Pump - replace single 1 HP main pool pump
3. Pentair EasyTouch 8, automate - fix unused solar controller
4. Pentair IC40 SWG - ease pool maintenance
It may be possible to replace the other 1HP pump that is used for jets in the hot tub area, but I've questions on how to plumb it. The mysterious pipe #4 draws from the bottom of the hot tub area (which I discovered by flipping it on one day). This means that I could actually set things up to warm up the pool or spa selectively! Or at least mostly, some of the pool water from the skimmer is returned to the hot tub so that it overflows to the pool.
Should I post to the Pumping Station for help in plumbing re-design, re-layout?
1. Aquabot Rapids 4WD pool cleaner - get to remove 3/4 HP boost pump
2. Pentair Intelliflo Variable Speed Pump - replace single 1 HP main pool pump
3. Pentair EasyTouch 8, automate - fix unused solar controller
4. Pentair IC40 SWG - ease pool maintenance
It may be possible to replace the other 1HP pump that is used for jets in the hot tub area, but I've questions on how to plumb it. The mysterious pipe #4 draws from the bottom of the hot tub area (which I discovered by flipping it on one day). This means that I could actually set things up to warm up the pool or spa selectively! Or at least mostly, some of the pool water from the skimmer is returned to the hot tub so that it overflows to the pool.
Should I post to the Pumping Station for help in plumbing re-design, re-layout?
You can keep it all here.
Most systems are setup so that you can heat the spa/pool searately ... if you could not then you would not be able to get a nice hot spa.
So you had two 1HP pumps? Likely you could get rid of both and just use the huge VS you got with some creative plumbing and valves.
Most systems are setup so that you can heat the spa/pool searately ... if you could not then you would not be able to get a nice hot spa.
So you had two 1HP pumps? Likely you could get rid of both and just use the huge VS you got with some creative plumbing and valves.
Yep, two 1 HP pumps and a 3/4 booster. The rather oversized VS should be sufficient. I picked the EasyTouch 8 so that I wouldn't run out of control lines for the actuators. Can two actuators be driven from one control line?
Currently if I was brave enough to turn on the current really old heater (and I"m not), I could turn the Jandy and the two valves on the copper lines to isolate the spa. I don't think the valves on the copper lines could easily be moved by anyone at this point without a large monkey wrench. I'd like to cut them out and switch to PVC for as much as possible.
I'll also be removing the current heater from the circuit, but leave space just incase we decide to put a new one in sometime later (which would be before the SWG cell).
I believe the solar panels could actually get the spa pretty toasty, hopefully the EasyTouch 8 is up to the programming.
There is however 1" (or so) return to the spa that connects into the pool return, so any time I run the pool I get water into the spa. I don't see this at the pad, so I may have to block it and figure out a way to selectively with a valve get some flow into the spa at the start of the day.
BTW: Is there a program that people use to post flow diagrams of the water/pumps/filters/etc? I'm going to draw things on paper and get some reviews before committing it to plastic.
I picked the EasyTouch 8 so that I wouldn't run out of control lines for the actuators. Can two actuators be driven from one control line?Currently if I was brave enough to turn on the current really old heater (and I"m not), I could turn the Jandy and the two valves on the copper lines to isolate the spa. I don't think the valves on the copper lines could easily be moved by anyone at this point without a large monkey wrench. I'd like to cut them out and switch to PVC for as much as possible.
I'll also be removing the current heater from the circuit, but leave space just incase we decide to put a new one in sometime later (which would be before the SWG cell).
I believe the solar panels could actually get the spa pretty toasty, hopefully the EasyTouch 8 is up to the programming.
There is however 1" (or so) return to the spa that connects into the pool return, so any time I run the pool I get water into the spa. I don't see this at the pad, so I may have to block it and figure out a way to selectively with a valve get some flow into the spa at the start of the day.
BTW: Is there a program that people use to post flow diagrams of the water/pumps/filters/etc? I'm going to draw things on paper and get some reviews before committing it to plastic.
The Aquabot Rapids 4WD is doing a fine job of cleaning the pool. It's getting some fine sand I didn't even know was in there that the Polaris 380 was missing.
The Easytouch 8 + IC40 arrived last week along with the VS pump. The VacAlert arrived this week... so time to really plan things out.
IF you look at the following picture, you'll see the current 'panel' + GoldLine controller mounted to a board. The boars is held up by two pieces of conduit in the cement along with two conduit with wiring, one for power, the other with a set of on/off water proof switches for the pool lights. I'm thinking of extending the conduit and replace the board with one large enough for the rather massive Easytouch 8 power center.
Q1. Anyone else with a similar setup with pictures???
BTW: Under the plywood box is the booster pump that is no longer needed.
Q2. What is the preferred way of posting suggested new plumbing?
The Easytouch 8 + IC40 arrived last week along with the VS pump. The VacAlert arrived this week... so time to really plan things out.
IF you look at the following picture, you'll see the current 'panel' + GoldLine controller mounted to a board. The boars is held up by two pieces of conduit in the cement along with two conduit with wiring, one for power, the other with a set of on/off water proof switches for the pool lights. I'm thinking of extending the conduit and replace the board with one large enough for the rather massive Easytouch 8 power center.
Q1. Anyone else with a similar setup with pictures???
BTW: Under the plywood box is the booster pump that is no longer needed.
Q2. What is the preferred way of posting suggested new plumbing?
Here is what I'm kinda of thinking of, but seems like too many Jandy 3 ways with automation controls...
#1 - Pool/Spa automation valve
#2 - Spa intake, could be just a simple T with an automation valve on output venturi, perhaps a sprinkler valve for on/off of air?
#3 - Solar Array
#4 - Pool/Spa return automation
#5 - Spa spill way on/off
**Corrected location of Venturi on output to Spa.
#1 - Pool/Spa automation valve
#2 - Spa intake, could be just a simple T with an automation valve on output venturi, perhaps a sprinkler valve for on/off of air?
#3 - Solar Array
#4 - Pool/Spa return automation
#5 - Spa spill way on/off
**Corrected location of Venturi on output to Spa.
Attachments
- May 3, 2007
- 16,842
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Are there truly two separate spa drain lines coming from the spa? Normally they are tied together at the spa for safety reasons. If so, then they should be combined with a tee. There is no reason to ever shut one off.
Other than that, the diagram looks fine.
Other than that, the diagram looks fine.
Yeah, there seems to be two drains from the spa. I had thought the second feed to the main pump was from the drain in the pool and switched it over to work on the skimmer and was surprised when the spa mostly emptied (the spa return kept some water in it). So I have no idea where the main drain goes and there are no un-identified pipes at the pad (anymore). I'll be removing some stuff today and seeing how much room 1 vs 3 pumps.
Still awaiting a couple more 3 way valves (mis-ordered and got one instead of 3) so the main work will be next weekend unless something magically appears on the door step today.
Still not sure about mounting the Pentair EasyTouch control on the conduits that currently come out of the ground, but figure it's the easiest way forward at this point.
Still awaiting a couple more 3 way valves (mis-ordered and got one instead of 3) so the main work will be next weekend unless something magically appears on the door step today.
Still not sure about mounting the Pentair EasyTouch control on the conduits that currently come out of the ground, but figure it's the easiest way forward at this point.