Hi All,
I'm hoping someone can give me some advice on this.
I have a small 15,000 liter in ground fiberglass pool that used to have nice and clear water, then 2 weeks ago we had some rain, the water turned green and I've been battling to get it clear again since then. Unfortunately I can't find any proper test kits in this country, so I'm basically down to guess work with a common 4-in-1 test kit from the pool shop.
Here's what I've done so far -
- Increased PH from 6.8 to 7.4
- Drained and replaced water to reduce CYA from 100+ to 60
- Last night I added enough bleach to bring the free chlorine up from 0ppm to the shock level of at least 24ppm as per pool school. This morning the water is still green, but a lighter shade of green and slightly clearer.
The test kits available here only measure FC up to 10ppm, so it's impossible to do an accurate OCLT test or to keep my FC constantly at shock level. The only thing my test kit tells me is that the FC is still above 10ppm.
Can anyone suggest a good way to proceed in the absence of a proper test kit?
With this basic kit I can at least see when the FC is between 7 and 10ppm, so if I let the FC come down now and keep it around 7-10ppm, will the algae eventually die out or will the chlorine fight a losing battle?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Chris
I'm hoping someone can give me some advice on this.
I have a small 15,000 liter in ground fiberglass pool that used to have nice and clear water, then 2 weeks ago we had some rain, the water turned green and I've been battling to get it clear again since then. Unfortunately I can't find any proper test kits in this country, so I'm basically down to guess work with a common 4-in-1 test kit from the pool shop.
Here's what I've done so far -
- Increased PH from 6.8 to 7.4
- Drained and replaced water to reduce CYA from 100+ to 60
- Last night I added enough bleach to bring the free chlorine up from 0ppm to the shock level of at least 24ppm as per pool school. This morning the water is still green, but a lighter shade of green and slightly clearer.
The test kits available here only measure FC up to 10ppm, so it's impossible to do an accurate OCLT test or to keep my FC constantly at shock level. The only thing my test kit tells me is that the FC is still above 10ppm.
Can anyone suggest a good way to proceed in the absence of a proper test kit?
With this basic kit I can at least see when the FC is between 7 and 10ppm, so if I let the FC come down now and keep it around 7-10ppm, will the algae eventually die out or will the chlorine fight a losing battle?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Chris