Need Opinions - have AGP, might build "Mega-Deck"

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Hiesman84

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Aug 12, 2012
63
Tecumseh, MI
I have a 15x30 AGP Oval.

Currently it has nothing around it - no "pool fence", no deck, no permanent ladder, nothing. It sits about 15 fee off the porch and 20-25 feet off the house.

My insurance company is going to drop me if I don't somehow "Enclose the pool area". (I'm a teacher and love my "for teachers" insurance, so I'd like to keep it if possible). I have to have something "lockable" to keep out intruders and anyone who doesn't belong there and could drown.

- Option 1 = Fencing in the entire yard (I hate this option) - 2 of my property lines and much too nice with trees and landscaping - not willing to do that.
- Option 2 = I "could" just put up standard 4-foot chain-link fence around the "pool area", but I really don't want to segregate my yard, and I think it would be too expensive to do considering I really don't like the idea.
- Option 3 = I have ordered and received some of the "pool fence" that mounts directly to the pool - it's still in the boxes. It didn't arrive until early November (the starter kit was on mega back order), so I don't actually have to install it until the spring time, so I have some time to work with. I really don't like the idea of the pool fence, don't like being so inclosed. And my side supports run on a diagonal all the way to the top edge of the pool and they do NOT make an adapter bracket/mount for that, so I'll have to cut some wood wedges to make the angles work.
- Option 4 = my favorite option - Build a MEGA-Deck. Here is what I am thinking...the pool is an oval, so I could build a deck on EACH END of the pool, something that (at the tip of the oval) extends 7 or 8 feet off the end of the pool. For simplicity, I would build the outside boarder/edge of the deck square, and of course round the inside edge to fit the shape of the pool. I would then build a (2 feet wide or so) catwalk down each side of the pool. Naturally there would be a railing to the deck, and I'd put a gate at the top of the steps, so that I could satisfy the insurance company. I would also use removable bolts and joints so that the catwalks and side railing could be removed/taken down temporarily, should I ever have problems with the pool and need access to the sides.


Anyone have opinions on how hard it would be to just install chain-link fence myself?

Anyone have any opinions on the "pool fence" that mounts to your pool? Or have my problem with the side braces that are on an angle and ever found an adapter to mount them at an angle?

Anyone want to chime in on reason why I would NOT want to build this MEGA-Deck? Dangerous to the pool in any way? Life span of the pool make it impractical? Advice on how to do it and still be able to put the pool cover on during the winter? Do's and Don't's for such an idea?

Any input would be a major help. Thanks!
 
I like the idea of a deck, but what is the insurance Co's issue, specifically? A lockable ladder and the 4ft pool wall should suffice as the "barrier". I'm fearing they may have a similar complaint about a deck with access to the pool.
 
dmanb2b said:
I like the idea of a deck, but what is the insurance Co's issue, specifically? A lockable ladder and the 4ft pool wall should suffice as the "barrier". I'm fearing they may have a similar complaint about a deck with access to the pool.
Click to expand...

I currently have a REMOVABLE ladder, and that's not enough. They want a "Secure barrier" I guess would be the term.

It's so dumb...they'll accept a standard 4-foot tall (48 inch) chain link fence...the pool itself if 52 inches tall, meaning the pool with the ladder taken down is more secure than the actual fence. So dumb.

They have told me that either the pool fence (which has a lockable gate) or the deck (which I could build with a lockable gate) are acceptable.

I could always swap insurance companies, BUT then I still have a pool with no deck at all...would kind of like a deck some day, so why not now?
 
Option 5- if you are in a rural area you could purchase 58 inch cattle panels from a farm supply store ($20.00 each) 16 feet long each panel. Then it is above code height and leaves plenty of the view.
 
Hiesman84 said:
It's so dumb...they'll accept a standard 4-foot tall (48 inch) chain link fence...the pool itself if 52 inches tall, meaning the pool with the ladder taken down is more secure than the actual fence. So dumb.
Click to expand...

I agree with you 100%, although it's unusual they would make you have to do anything beyond code requirements ...Like UWV suggested, maybe ask about a lockable ladder. I do like the idea of a deck and while very possible, will still be very expensive just to wrap around the pool. I had considered that as well when we built our deck, but opted to only attach to 1/3 of the pool wall and use the large rectangular deck shape for recreation, kiddie pool, sunbathing, etc.

Either way, I would advise you to get "secure barrier" defined by the co. in WRITING, as the last thing you want to do is drop a big investment and have them drop you anyway :rant:

Best of luck!
 
Like you, we had to have a secure fence... at least 6 ft high, to enclose our pool. Ours had to have a self latching gate. We opted for a walk around deck with railing all the way around it and a large deck to one side for seating. We had a pre-existing deck near it that went up to our back door so we just connected the two and added the self- latching gate which we lock when the pool isn't in use. The side nearest the road is where our seating area is and we put up fence panels all along that side for privacy.

Hope you figure it out. Other than the routine maintenance... I love our decks
 
I built a 12X20 deck between my sunroom and AGP by myself, it was a big project but I completed it in about 1.5 weeks, you can see it in my signature link.
It's very close to the size your looking at so that option is defintely possible and, in my opinion, the best option.
Our local bylaws require that a self closing and locking gate be attached, simple, Home Depot sells the locks and door springs.

I'd go for the deck.
You'll need a permit and I'd check with your insurance first to make sure their good with it.

One easy place to start looking at deck plans is deckplans.com, great site and don't let anyone poo-poo that building technology, where I live the majority of decks use it because the frost can reach down 5-6 feet and heave footings.

Good luck!
 
Ditto what cramar said. i actually like the look he had, and used his deck as my startpoint drawing up a plan. Thanks cramar.
Some work involved with zoning/planning ordinances with getting permits, but the guys i delt with were pretty alright. I just don't understand some of these lame township rules. Some are warrented but others seem outright ridiculous.
My deck took my half my summer. I wouldn't want to do it again, but glad I have it in place now. Only wish I would have builts a walking deck around the back side. Great for cleaning and winter cover tie down.

Good luck
 

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deweypip said:
Ditto what cramar said. i actually like the look he had, and used his deck as my startpoint drawing up a plan. Thanks cramar.
Some work involved with zoning/planning ordinances with getting permits, but the guys i delt with were pretty alright. I just don't understand some of these lame township rules. Some are warrented but others seem outright ridiculous.
My deck took my half my summer. I wouldn't want to do it again, but glad I have it in place now. Only wish I would have builts a walking deck around the back side. Great for cleaning and winter cover tie down.

Good luck
Click to expand...

Yeah, I totally hear you on the walking deck - that's a big big point of interest for me...

But at this point, I'm not sure I can afford to build "Mega Deck" like I had described...

Also, my ground is very SANDY & Soft around my pool, especially off one end where one of the 2 main deck areas would be. I see you guys tried to simplify the projects with those "floating deck pole bases" (I forget their real names) rather than cementing the posts. I'm not sure I could get away with those with the soil I have on one end of the pool. We had a large thaw & rain last weekend, and the fire pit in that area was literally full to the top of water the water table was so high in that soft ground. So I'm not sure those floating post bases would work in ground so soft.

And wow will that be a big job to dig and cement posts for what I would like to do...

Dewey, did you go with the floating post format? or did you concrete them in?
 
Hiesman84,
To give you perspective, main deck area is 28X14.
Code wanted concrete poured 36" deep//8-10" round holes. I sit on top of very shaley soil. Some spots i went down 40-42", most are 36" deep, but I had one post only 18" deep(a hole right next to pool). Code guys said, get what you can and pour. I think I had something like 18 holes to fill with concrete. I used tubes down holes. I went with 8" post hole driller on tractror, and cut smaller collars out of 10" tubes for the top 8" of concrete. Gave me more wiggle room to get all my posts square and in line. Only outside posts did I put in 1/2" anchors into concrete to attatch to bottom of posts. Underside posts have only aluminum post bases which just sit on top of concrete post holes.

Let me tell you---this was more expensive than I anticipated. And I had a lot of stuff from years gone by for this project,(most of my beams, 4x4's, and post anchor/screws), and it still cost plenty. Hardware on this deck project cost as much as the lumber. Honestly, I'd love to go around the back side of the pool with walk around, but I just don't want to put more $$ into it.
 
An easy way to assess costs is go to the DeckBlock site, print off a similar plan and then take the parts list to your building store and price out the components, this will at least get you a somewhat accurate estimage of costs.

Dewey is right, things like brackets and lag bolts and such really start to add up.

Dewey, that's a great looking deck, nice job....now it just needs a coat of stain :wink:
 
Me too, I've let me deck go for a couple of seasons so it needs it asap....I'm not looking forward to it.

Part of me want's to do it nice and buy a tinted stain, the other part says buy a clear stain because it will be less work and less future maintenance.
I did alot of research on exterior stains and in the end I believe all of them have some degree of flaking over the years with the tinted ones showing it the most, the clear stain would somewhat hide the peeling/flaking stain better than a colored stain.
 
Re: Need Opinions - have AGP, might build "Mega-Deck"

Consumer reports tests a few years back showed opaque stains lasted far longer than transparent ones.

Sent via Tapatalk...
 
When a tinted stain starts to fail and peel it's very noticable and very ugly, whereas a quality transparent stain will hide that to a certain degree as your loosing a relatively transparent covering (recognizing that even a "transparent" stain will tint the wood to some degree).
In the end, they all peel and flake, even the expensive stains. The down side to a large wooden deck is that to maintain it properly takes quality products, proper preperation of the wood pre/post application, and somewhat regular intervals of cleaning and re-staining. Alot of people do minimal prep and cleaning and then just put on Thompsons or some such thing, and then get disappointed when their deck looks like Crud in 8 years (I'm guilty of this myself).

I researched alot of stain products and was going to buy some of the most expensive stuff I could find on the US market, after reading alot of reviews I started to see that all stains peel and flake after a while, some faster than others, and that alot of people don't apply per the manufacturers directions (ie: pre deck cleaning, etc).
In the end I decided that moving down to a mid range clear stain will save a bit of cash but only compromise a bit of life expectancy. I'm leaning towards Cabots stain. It's a difficult thing to study, each type of stain manufacturer has people that swear by it and people that hate it, each manufacturer has testing to show how great thiers is.

Just don't use paint.
 
cramar said:
When a tinted stain starts to fail and peel it's very noticable and very ugly, whereas a quality transparent stain will hide that to a certain degree as your loosing a relatively transparent covering (recognizing that even a "transparent" stain will tint the wood to some degree).
In the end, they all peel and flake, even the expensive stains. The down side to a large wooden deck is that to maintain it properly takes quality products, proper preperation of the wood pre/post application, and somewhat regular intervals of cleaning and re-staining. Alot of people do minimal prep and cleaning and then just put on Thompsons or some such thing, and then get disappointed when their deck looks like **** in 8 years (I'm guilty of this myself).

I researched alot of stain products and was going to buy some of the most expensive stuff I could find on the US market, after reading alot of reviews I started to see that all stains peel and flake after a while, some faster than others, and that alot of people don't apply per the manufacturers directions (ie: pre deck cleaning, etc).
In the end I decided that moving down to a mid range clear stain will save a bit of cash but only compromise a bit of life expectancy. I'm leaning towards Cabots stain. It's a difficult thing to study, each type of stain manufacturer has people that swear by it and people that hate it, each manufacturer has testing to show how great thiers is.

Just don't use paint.
Click to expand...

I understand that. The transparent stains may not flake an peel but they also had a much lower protectant lifespan. None were more than 2 years if I recall (in testing not promised lifespans).
 

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