New Pool/New Owner-Water Chemistry Concerns

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pragmatic

pragmatic

0
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2011
516
Friendswood, TX
Over the past 2 weeks my pool started looking a little cloudy and now appears to have spots of brown-algae. I grew concerned with the pool store testing, so I bought the Taylor K-2006 Test Kit (Thanks TFP):
Acid-wash completion 10/24
Water temp is around 70F (Moderate use)
Using stabilized Cl tabs
12/4
pH 8 [added 36oz muriatic acid]
FC 0.4
CC 0.8
TA 65
CYA 20
12/6
pH 7.3
FC 0.2 [added 40oz (6% bleach) and moved chlorinator to 5 (max)]
CC 0.4
TA 50
CYA 20 [added 4lbs CYA]
I realize my adjustments are a bit light, but am I on the right track?
 
Emphasizing what Sebring Don says, visible algae is a surefire trigger to shock the pool. Follow the process in Pool School and once your pool is back to crystal clear with no algae, you can resume normal FC levels.

I would also suggest (after you finish the shock process) that you elevate your CYA to up around 60ppm and then keep your FC from 3-5ppm all the time.
 
duraleigh said:
I would also suggest (after you finish the shock process) that you elevate your CYA to up around 60ppm and then keep your FC from 3-5ppm all the time.
Click to expand...

Why 60? And what does the 4lbs of cya added get the pool up to?



- Sent using Tapatalk
 
I have a few concerns.
pragmatic said:
Acid-wash completion 10/24
Click to expand...
You say you did an acid wash, what prompted this?
pragmatic said:
...10/24 Using stabilized Cl tabs
12/4
pH 8....CYA 20
Click to expand...
You say that as of 10/24 you were still using Tri-Chlor/Di-Chlor tabs.
Yet on 12/4, over a month later, your pH was still high. Tabs are acidic and bring your pH & TA down, not to mention your CYA was very low. Tabs put CYA in your pool.

pragmatic said:
12/6 .... [added 40oz (6% bleach) and moved chlorinator to 5 (max)]
Click to expand...
Now you have added bleach, but you have adjusted your chlorinator. Is this an automatic puck feeder, a floating puck chlorinator, or a liquid chlorine dispenser?

pragmatic said:
12/6...... CYA 20 [added 4lbs CYA]
Click to expand...
Nearly 1 month and a 1/2 later your CYA is still @ 20 using pucks?
Every 1ppm of chlorine from a tri-chlor puck will net you 0.6ppm CYA. For di-chlor, every 1ppm chlorine will net you 0.9ppm CYA.
Di-Chlor 8oz Tablet - 2.2ppm + 2ppm CYA
Tri-Chlor 8oz Tablet - 2.2ppm + 1.3ppm CYA

You added CYA yesterday, what is it at now? How are you measuring CYA?

To summarize my questions and concerns.
1. Have you been using tri-chlor/di-chlor pucks this entire time?
2. If so, your CYA will be much, much higher than that.
*Unless you have only used 10-15 pucks on a fresh fill.
3. Did you use them at 1st to raise your CYA, then switched to bleach? Or switched once you found this forum maybe?
4. I'm concerned that your CYA really and truly isn't 20ppm, but much higher than that.

Please review the extended testing procedures for all of your tests, concentrating on the CYA test at this point. But do study the others as well. Read all the tips, directions, steps and everything you see in that category. Then read the steps again and follow along as you do the test.
Water temp HAS to be >70F. If not, warm the sample from your pool in a hot sink of water till a thermometer reads the pool water sample at or above 70F. A little higher is best, simply to compensate for inaccurate thermometers.

extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html

Report back and let us know your findings and answers to the above.

Thx
Don't despair and hang in there! :goodjob:
We'll help you get your pool looking better than you have ever seen it and feeling better than it ever has before. Not to mention smelling and even tasting better.
 
Wow, thanks everyone for the replies! I now have a small book printed from Pool School and did a lot of reading last night (much more to go). I realize Pool School addresses everything. But I need to get a quick fix on the pool first; Bear with me please!
y_not said:
I have a few concerns.
pragmatic said:
Acid-wash completion 10/24
Click to expand...
You say you did an acid wash, what prompted this?
New pool-PB did it. Part of the Diamond Brite plaster application process.
pragmatic said:
...10/24 Using stabilized Cl tabs
12/4
pH 8....CYA 20
Click to expand...
You say that as of 10/24 you were still using Tri-Chlor/Di-Chlor tabs.
Yet on 12/4, over a month later, your pH was still high. Tabs are acidic and bring your pH & TA down, not to mention your CYA was very low. Tabs put CYA in your pool.
I've been battling high pH and low FC with small additions of CYA and Muriatic acid. I was told the water should stabilize with time (new plaster).
pragmatic said:
12/6 .... [added 40oz (6% bleach) and moved chlorinator to 5 (max)]
Click to expand...
I added an additional 2lbs Ca Hypo 68%; at recommendation of pool store, I purchased 25lb granular type. My plan is to switch to liquid bleach for future shocks.
Now you have added bleach, but you have adjusted your chlorinator. Is this an automatic puck feeder, a floating puck chlorinator, or a liquid chlorine dispenser?
It's an automatic puck feeder.
pragmatic said:
12/6...... CYA 20 [added 4lbs CYA]
Click to expand...
Nearly 1 month and a 1/2 later your CYA is still @ 20 using pucks?
Every 1ppm of chlorine from a tri-chlor puck will net you 0.6ppm CYA. For di-chlor, every 1ppm chlorine will net you 0.9ppm CYA.
Di-Chlor 8oz Tablet - 2.2ppm + 2ppm CYA
Tri-Chlor 8oz Tablet - 2.2ppm + 1.3ppm CYA
You added CYA yesterday, what is it at now? How are you measuring CYA?
I'll check it tonight (I'm in shock mode now [FC@11ppm]; will this interfere with CYA test results?)/ per instructions-Taylor K-2006 kit

To summarize my questions and concerns.
1. Have you been using tri-chlor/di-chlor pucks this entire time?
Yes, I want to continue using these as well. Should I not?
2. If so, your CYA will be much, much higher than that.
*Unless you have only used 10-15 pucks on a fresh fill.
I'm guessing my PB added very little stabilizer after the acid-wash and I've only had to recharge the Chlorinator with 4tabs since install. Maybe that explains the low CYA?
3. Did you use them at 1st to raise your CYA, then switched to bleach? Or switched once you found this forum maybe?
I'd like to utilize my chlorinator and use bleach only for shock. Is this OK?
4. I'm concerned that your CYA really and truly isn't 20ppm, but much higher than that.
see#2

Please review the extended testing procedures for all of your tests, concentrating on the CYA test at this point. But do study the others as well. Read all the tips, directions, steps and everything you see in that category. Then read the steps again and follow along as you do the test.
Water temp HAS to be >70F. If not, warm the sample from your pool in a hot sink of water till a thermometer reads the pool water sample at or above 70F. A little higher is best, simply to compensate for inaccurate thermometers.

extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html

Report back and let us know your findings and answers to the above.

Thx
Don't despair and hang in there! :goodjob:
We'll help you get your pool looking better than you have ever seen it and feeling better than it ever has before. Not to mention smelling and even tasting better.
Click to expand...

Wow-wee~Thanks again!!
 
Some thoughts on your post....

It can take up to a year for pH to stabilize with new plaster. Keep adding acid to maintain no higher than 7.8, have patience, and it will get better.

Most users here use either liquid bleach or have a SWG hooked up for chlorination. BBB isn't about "only use bleach", it's about understanding your pool and only putting in what it needs. As long as you understand that pucks will add chlorine, AND lower pH, AND raise CYA, AND most likely be more expensive, you are free to use them. Just know that you must be monitoring all of those parameters and adjusting for them.

As for the in line chlorinator, you can keep using it, but read the above paragraph again, because you can only use pucks with that thing. If you're worried about the time spent on maintenance, after you get into the groove, liquid bleach requires less than 5 min a day. I travel about half the week for work, and my wife was really worried about how much work she would have to do when I was gone. After our first summer, she was stunned at how easy it was.

Keep reading pool school and keep asking questions!
 

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Based on your CC reading, it looks like your testing via the FAS-DPD method using a 25ml sample.
This isn't really necessary and just wastes reagent. Instead use a 10ml sample and each drop is 0.5ppm. Saves on reagent. :)
 
y_not said:
Based on your CC reading, it looks like your testing via the FAS-DPD method using a 25ml sample.
This isn't really necessary and just wastes reagent. Instead use a 10ml sample and each drop is 0.5ppm. Saves on reagent. :)
Click to expand...

Yep... i figured that out after about the 30th drop.....im a lil slow but du lern from muy mustake's :goodjob:
 
Thanks again everyone for the advice and help!
My pool remains crystal clear and I've been able to maintain proper levels with only muriatic acid (new plaster/build) & bleach and a touch of baking soda. Although I'm still using my in-line chlorinator / trichlor-pucks, I've restricted the flow drastically (uses about 2-3inch tablet/month). It appears to balance CYA level from water loss (splashing). I now understand the basics and feel comfortable~ TFP is great and I often recommend you all to friends!
David
 
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