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Thread: New Pool/New Owner-Water Chemistry Concerns

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    pragmatic's Avatar
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    New Pool/New Owner-Water Chemistry Concerns

    Over the past 2 weeks my pool started looking a little cloudy and now appears to have spots of brown-algae. I grew concerned with the pool store testing, so I bought the Taylor K-2006 Test Kit (Thanks TFP):
    Acid-wash completion 10/24
    Water temp is around 70F (Moderate use)
    Using stabilized Cl tabs
    12/4
    pH 8 [added 36oz muriatic acid]
    FC 0.4
    CC 0.8
    TA 65
    CYA 20
    12/6
    pH 7.3
    FC 0.2 [added 40oz (6% bleach) and moved chlorinator to 5 (max)]
    CC 0.4
    TA 50
    CYA 20 [added 4lbs CYA]
    I realize my adjustments are a bit light, but am I on the right track?
    Dave My Pool Build, ODK Build
    22’X42’ Gunite Freeform 23K Gal, 10’X12’ Spa
    Diamond-Brite midnight blue, 1800sq. ft Kool Deck
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    Re: New Pool/New Owner-Water Chemistry Concerns

    The pool calculator http://www.poolcalculator.com/ says you should be shooting for a range of 2 to 5 ppm for a CYA of 20. You're at .2, one-tenth of the minimum. Just to get to minimum you need to add 83 oz of 6%. If you've got algae, you should be shocking at a level of 11 ppm, which would require 550 oz.

    Better stock up on chlorine and read about the shocking process in pool school.
    14,500 gallons, Clean and Clear 150 cartridge, IG, gunite, USQ 1152 1.5 hp motor (3450 rpm), Pentair Pinnacle Pump

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    Re: New Pool/New Owner-Water Chemistry Concerns

    Was trying to avoid shocking it...not really sure why. Thanks for the advice.
    Dave My Pool Build, ODK Build
    22’X42’ Gunite Freeform 23K Gal, 10’X12’ Spa
    Diamond-Brite midnight blue, 1800sq. ft Kool Deck
    Pentair Easy-Touch 8, 2-2hp Pentair, 500lb Sand Filter, 400K btu Pentair heater

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    Re: New Pool/New Owner-Water Chemistry Concerns

    Emphasizing what Sebring Don says, visible algae is a surefire trigger to shock the pool. Follow the process in Pool School and once your pool is back to crystal clear with no algae, you can resume normal FC levels.

    I would also suggest (after you finish the shock process) that you elevate your CYA to up around 60ppm and then keep your FC from 3-5ppm all the time.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: New Pool/New Owner-Water Chemistry Concerns

    Quote Originally Posted by duraleigh
    I would also suggest (after you finish the shock process) that you elevate your CYA to up around 60ppm and then keep your FC from 3-5ppm all the time.
    Why 60? And what does the 4lbs of cya added get the pool up to?



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    Re: New Pool/New Owner-Water Chemistry Concerns

    I have a few concerns.
    Quote Originally Posted by pragmatic
    Acid-wash completion 10/24
    You say you did an acid wash, what prompted this?
    Quote Originally Posted by pragmatic
    ...10/24 Using stabilized Cl tabs
    12/4
    pH 8....CYA 20
    You say that as of 10/24 you were still using Tri-Chlor/Di-Chlor tabs.
    Yet on 12/4, over a month later, your pH was still high. Tabs are acidic and bring your pH & TA down, not to mention your CYA was very low. Tabs put CYA in your pool.

    Quote Originally Posted by pragmatic
    12/6 .... [added 40oz (6% bleach) and moved chlorinator to 5 (max)]
    Now you have added bleach, but you have adjusted your chlorinator. Is this an automatic puck feeder, a floating puck chlorinator, or a liquid chlorine dispenser?

    Quote Originally Posted by pragmatic
    12/6...... CYA 20 [added 4lbs CYA]
    Nearly 1 month and a 1/2 later your CYA is still @ 20 using pucks?
    Every 1ppm of chlorine from a tri-chlor puck will net you 0.6ppm CYA. For di-chlor, every 1ppm chlorine will net you 0.9ppm CYA.
    Di-Chlor 8oz Tablet - 2.2ppm + 2ppm CYA
    Tri-Chlor 8oz Tablet - 2.2ppm + 1.3ppm CYA

    You added CYA yesterday, what is it at now? How are you measuring CYA?

    To summarize my questions and concerns.
    1. Have you been using tri-chlor/di-chlor pucks this entire time?
    2. If so, your CYA will be much, much higher than that.
    *Unless you have only used 10-15 pucks on a fresh fill.
    3. Did you use them at 1st to raise your CYA, then switched to bleach? Or switched once you found this forum maybe?
    4. I'm concerned that your CYA really and truly isn't 20ppm, but much higher than that.

    Please review the extended testing procedures for all of your tests, concentrating on the CYA test at this point. But do study the others as well. Read all the tips, directions, steps and everything you see in that category. Then read the steps again and follow along as you do the test.
    Water temp HAS to be >70F. If not, warm the sample from your pool in a hot sink of water till a thermometer reads the pool water sample at or above 70F. A little higher is best, simply to compensate for inaccurate thermometers.

    extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html

    Report back and let us know your findings and answers to the above.

    Thx
    Don't despair and hang in there!
    We'll help you get your pool looking better than you have ever seen it and feeling better than it ever has before. Not to mention smelling and even tasting better.
    Thanks for reading... - Tony
    Da' Pool: Intex 15'x42" 3284gal AGP EasySet (Inflatable Ring) - (Summer 2014: 27' round EW /w 6.5' deep end @ 22,500gal)
    Pump & Cart Mod: 1000gph Cart. 5ft² - 2 nylons, 24/7 OP. Traps bugs/bits, lasts longer/cleans easier = Happier Pool Owner!!
    The Bible for a "Trouble Free Pool" life = PoolSchool, the BBB method a TF100 test kit(Recommend Kits Compared). - Cleaning a Sand Filter
    Water looks like GLASS, if yours doesn't...SLAM IT! Feels nice and never been happier!!! :D

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    Re: New Pool/New Owner-Water Chemistry Concerns

    Please disregard my earlier suggestion of 60ppm CYA....should have been 40 ppm.

    FC suggestion of 3 -5 ppm remains the same.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: New Pool/New Owner-Water Chemistry Concerns

    Wow, thanks everyone for the replies! I now have a small book printed from Pool School and did a lot of reading last night (much more to go). I realize Pool School addresses everything. But I need to get a quick fix on the pool first; Bear with me please!
    Quote Originally Posted by y_not
    I have a few concerns.
    Quote Originally Posted by pragmatic
    Acid-wash completion 10/24
    You say you did an acid wash, what prompted this?
    New pool-PB did it. Part of the Diamond Brite plaster application process.
    Quote Originally Posted by pragmatic
    ...10/24 Using stabilized Cl tabs
    12/4
    pH 8....CYA 20
    You say that as of 10/24 you were still using Tri-Chlor/Di-Chlor tabs.
    Yet on 12/4, over a month later, your pH was still high. Tabs are acidic and bring your pH & TA down, not to mention your CYA was very low. Tabs put CYA in your pool.
    I've been battling high pH and low FC with small additions of CYA and Muriatic acid. I was told the water should stabilize with time (new plaster).
    Quote Originally Posted by pragmatic
    12/6 .... [added 40oz (6% bleach) and moved chlorinator to 5 (max)]
    I added an additional 2lbs Ca Hypo 68%; at recommendation of pool store, I purchased 25lb granular type. My plan is to switch to liquid bleach for future shocks.
    Now you have added bleach, but you have adjusted your chlorinator. Is this an automatic puck feeder, a floating puck chlorinator, or a liquid chlorine dispenser?
    It's an automatic puck feeder.
    Quote Originally Posted by pragmatic
    12/6...... CYA 20 [added 4lbs CYA]
    Nearly 1 month and a 1/2 later your CYA is still @ 20 using pucks?
    Every 1ppm of chlorine from a tri-chlor puck will net you 0.6ppm CYA. For di-chlor, every 1ppm chlorine will net you 0.9ppm CYA.
    Di-Chlor 8oz Tablet - 2.2ppm + 2ppm CYA
    Tri-Chlor 8oz Tablet - 2.2ppm + 1.3ppm CYA
    You added CYA yesterday, what is it at now? How are you measuring CYA?
    I'll check it tonight (I'm in shock mode now [FC@11ppm]; will this interfere with CYA test results?)/ per instructions-Taylor K-2006 kit

    To summarize my questions and concerns.
    1. Have you been using tri-chlor/di-chlor pucks this entire time?
    Yes, I want to continue using these as well. Should I not?
    2. If so, your CYA will be much, much higher than that.
    *Unless you have only used 10-15 pucks on a fresh fill.
    I'm guessing my PB added very little stabilizer after the acid-wash and I've only had to recharge the Chlorinator with 4tabs since install. Maybe that explains the low CYA?
    3. Did you use them at 1st to raise your CYA, then switched to bleach? Or switched once you found this forum maybe?
    I'd like to utilize my chlorinator and use bleach only for shock. Is this OK?
    4. I'm concerned that your CYA really and truly isn't 20ppm, but much higher than that.
    see#2

    Please review the extended testing procedures for all of your tests, concentrating on the CYA test at this point. But do study the others as well. Read all the tips, directions, steps and everything you see in that category. Then read the steps again and follow along as you do the test.
    Water temp HAS to be >70F. If not, warm the sample from your pool in a hot sink of water till a thermometer reads the pool water sample at or above 70F. A little higher is best, simply to compensate for inaccurate thermometers.

    extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html

    Report back and let us know your findings and answers to the above.

    Thx
    Don't despair and hang in there!
    We'll help you get your pool looking better than you have ever seen it and feeling better than it ever has before. Not to mention smelling and even tasting better.
    Wow-wee~Thanks again!!
    Dave My Pool Build, ODK Build
    22’X42’ Gunite Freeform 23K Gal, 10’X12’ Spa
    Diamond-Brite midnight blue, 1800sq. ft Kool Deck
    Pentair Easy-Touch 8, 2-2hp Pentair, 500lb Sand Filter, 400K btu Pentair heater

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    Re: New Pool/New Owner-Water Chemistry Concerns

    Some thoughts on your post....

    It can take up to a year for pH to stabilize with new plaster. Keep adding acid to maintain no higher than 7.8, have patience, and it will get better.

    Most users here use either liquid bleach or have a SWG hooked up for chlorination. BBB isn't about "only use bleach", it's about understanding your pool and only putting in what it needs. As long as you understand that pucks will add chlorine, AND lower pH, AND raise CYA, AND most likely be more expensive, you are free to use them. Just know that you must be monitoring all of those parameters and adjusting for them.

    As for the in line chlorinator, you can keep using it, but read the above paragraph again, because you can only use pucks with that thing. If you're worried about the time spent on maintenance, after you get into the groove, liquid bleach requires less than 5 min a day. I travel about half the week for work, and my wife was really worried about how much work she would have to do when I was gone. After our first summer, she was stunned at how easy it was.

    Keep reading pool school and keep asking questions!
    33' round, 23,000 gal AG vinyl , 1HP 2spd PowerFlo Matrix downsized with 3/4HP impeller (X2), Hayward S180T 150# sand filter (X2), Hayward H250 NG heater Pool Store year 1 - $850 for 2 months; Pool Store year 2 - $440 for 2 months, TFPC year 1 - $170 for 4 months; TFPC year 2 - $95 for 4.5 months
    The most important article on this site - The ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

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    Re: New Pool/New Owner-Water Chemistry Concerns

    12/8
    FC 8PPM
    CC.2PPM
    pH 7.2
    CYA 60PPM
    Pool is looking better!
    It's getting there
    Dave My Pool Build, ODK Build
    22’X42’ Gunite Freeform 23K Gal, 10’X12’ Spa
    Diamond-Brite midnight blue, 1800sq. ft Kool Deck
    Pentair Easy-Touch 8, 2-2hp Pentair, 500lb Sand Filter, 400K btu Pentair heater

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    Re: New Pool/New Owner-Water Chemistry Concerns

    Based on your CC reading, it looks like your testing via the FAS-DPD method using a 25ml sample.
    This isn't really necessary and just wastes reagent. Instead use a 10ml sample and each drop is 0.5ppm. Saves on reagent.
    Thanks for reading... - Tony
    Da' Pool: Intex 15'x42" 3284gal AGP EasySet (Inflatable Ring) - (Summer 2014: 27' round EW /w 6.5' deep end @ 22,500gal)
    Pump & Cart Mod: 1000gph Cart. 5ft² - 2 nylons, 24/7 OP. Traps bugs/bits, lasts longer/cleans easier = Happier Pool Owner!!
    The Bible for a "Trouble Free Pool" life = PoolSchool, the BBB method a TF100 test kit(Recommend Kits Compared). - Cleaning a Sand Filter
    Water looks like GLASS, if yours doesn't...SLAM IT! Feels nice and never been happier!!! :D

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    Re: New Pool/New Owner-Water Chemistry Concerns

    Quote Originally Posted by y_not
    Based on your CC reading, it looks like your testing via the FAS-DPD method using a 25ml sample.
    This isn't really necessary and just wastes reagent. Instead use a 10ml sample and each drop is 0.5ppm. Saves on reagent.
    Yep... i figured that out after about the 30th drop.....im a lil slow but du lern from muy mustake's
    Dave My Pool Build, ODK Build
    22’X42’ Gunite Freeform 23K Gal, 10’X12’ Spa
    Diamond-Brite midnight blue, 1800sq. ft Kool Deck
    Pentair Easy-Touch 8, 2-2hp Pentair, 500lb Sand Filter, 400K btu Pentair heater

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    Re: New Pool/New Owner-Water Chemistry Concerns

    12/16
    FC 4
    CC 0
    pH 7.5
    CYA 50
    Pool is crystal clear, but better yet, I now know why ~ Thanks for your help
    Dave My Pool Build, ODK Build
    22’X42’ Gunite Freeform 23K Gal, 10’X12’ Spa
    Diamond-Brite midnight blue, 1800sq. ft Kool Deck
    Pentair Easy-Touch 8, 2-2hp Pentair, 500lb Sand Filter, 400K btu Pentair heater

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    Re: New Pool/New Owner-Water Chemistry Concerns

    Glad to hear it!
    I take it you passed all 3 OCLT criteria?
    Water clear, CCs <0.5 & Chlorine loss <1.0.
    Thanks for reading... - Tony
    Da' Pool: Intex 15'x42" 3284gal AGP EasySet (Inflatable Ring) - (Summer 2014: 27' round EW /w 6.5' deep end @ 22,500gal)
    Pump & Cart Mod: 1000gph Cart. 5ft² - 2 nylons, 24/7 OP. Traps bugs/bits, lasts longer/cleans easier = Happier Pool Owner!!
    The Bible for a "Trouble Free Pool" life = PoolSchool, the BBB method a TF100 test kit(Recommend Kits Compared). - Cleaning a Sand Filter
    Water looks like GLASS, if yours doesn't...SLAM IT! Feels nice and never been happier!!! :D

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    Re: New Pool/New Owner-Water Chemistry Concerns

    Pool is crystal clear, but better yet, I now know why
    That makes you a genuine BBB'r. We emphasize over and over that BBB is not about "magic" chemicals but rather obtaining the knowledge to manage your pool. Congratulations!
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: New Pool/New Owner-Water Chemistry Concerns

    Thanks again everyone for the advice and help!
    My pool remains crystal clear and I've been able to maintain proper levels with only muriatic acid (new plaster/build) & bleach and a touch of baking soda. Although I'm still using my in-line chlorinator / trichlor-pucks, I've restricted the flow drastically (uses about 2-3inch tablet/month). It appears to balance CYA level from water loss (splashing). I now understand the basics and feel comfortable~ TFP is great and I often recommend you all to friends!
    David
    Dave My Pool Build, ODK Build
    22’X42’ Gunite Freeform 23K Gal, 10’X12’ Spa
    Diamond-Brite midnight blue, 1800sq. ft Kool Deck
    Pentair Easy-Touch 8, 2-2hp Pentair, 500lb Sand Filter, 400K btu Pentair heater

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    Re: New Pool/New Owner-Water Chemistry Concerns

    Pool is crystal clear, but better yet, I now know why
    That's one of my favorite TFP posts....it speaks volumes with few words. Nice Work
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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