hey guys it's that time to close and I have no idea what water level I should have my pool at. It has one skimmer, 2 returns below the skimmer level and 2 lights below the returns level. When the water is just below the skimmer, it is right above the returns (about 2-3 inches) and when it's right below the returns it about 3 inches higher then the lights. if I drain below the lights. it is significantly low. almost 2.5 to 3 feet. What water level should I be at? Just below the returns? it's about 1.5 to 2 feet from the top of the pool when the water level is just below the returns. Sorry if it seems confusing, as I am really confused.
Pool water level with lights
- Thread starter squirreltech
- Start date
y_not
0
Hi,
Welcome to TFP!
There's no need to drain below the lights.
The whole idea of draining it in the 1st place is to expose the plumbing to air, so it can be blown out and winterized. The extra space above the waterline also gives your pool water room to expand upward as it freezes, instead of outward so much.
Drain it 4" below the returns.
Review the following article in Pool School if you haven't already.
pool-school/closing_in_ground_pool
Welcome to TFP!
There's no need to drain below the lights.
The whole idea of draining it in the 1st place is to expose the plumbing to air, so it can be blown out and winterized. The extra space above the waterline also gives your pool water room to expand upward as it freezes, instead of outward so much.
Drain it 4" below the returns.
Review the following article in Pool School if you haven't already.
pool-school/closing_in_ground_pool
That's what I thought but the only reason I ask is that I heard one that the frozen top layer could cause damage if in contact with a light or return jet. As in if the ice shifts it could tear it the return or break the light. Someone else on another thread suggested taking the lights out of the cavity and attaching a weight to them, to have them below the ice slab. Thoughts on that?
y_not
0
I have never seen anything like that recommended here. If it were a big deal, it'd be in the PSchool article.
I personally don't own an in-ground pool, so I can't say for sure. Although I have experience with them, just not in climates where it ever freezes much at all and only occasionally.
But really, if you're several inches above the pool light, you'd have to have some MEGA ice in order for it to get so thick that it'd go down as far as the pool light. Not to mention the ice moves "up" as it freezes, not down. Expanding outwardly against the walls some, but not as much as going up.
Yes, if it did get down that far, I could see it causing some problems. But we're talking about a thick, glass light, whose weakest point will be center. So you'd easily have to develop a good 4+ inches of ice to even get near the center of the light cover, up to 6 to get dead center. That doesn't even take into acct. the rise of the ice as it expands upward. Then it's have to continually freeze & thaw in order to push outward.
It seems probable taken the variables, but highly unlikely given the practicality of the situation.
All of this assumes you're measuring from the top edge of the light housing, not center and given an 8" light.
But someone else I'm sure will come along with some advice, or personal experience as to the lights and their vulnerability in this situation.
I personally don't own an in-ground pool, so I can't say for sure. Although I have experience with them, just not in climates where it ever freezes much at all and only occasionally.
But really, if you're several inches above the pool light, you'd have to have some MEGA ice in order for it to get so thick that it'd go down as far as the pool light. Not to mention the ice moves "up" as it freezes, not down. Expanding outwardly against the walls some, but not as much as going up.
Yes, if it did get down that far, I could see it causing some problems. But we're talking about a thick, glass light, whose weakest point will be center. So you'd easily have to develop a good 4+ inches of ice to even get near the center of the light cover, up to 6 to get dead center. That doesn't even take into acct. the rise of the ice as it expands upward. Then it's have to continually freeze & thaw in order to push outward.
It seems probable taken the variables, but highly unlikely given the practicality of the situation.
All of this assumes you're measuring from the top edge of the light housing, not center and given an 8" light.
But someone else I'm sure will come along with some advice, or personal experience as to the lights and their vulnerability in this situation.
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,668
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
I can't find it right now but a similar question was answered by several experts here differently. They recommended blowing out the returns and plugging them but draining only until the water was below the skimmers but still above the returns to protect the lights. I would search a bit and see if you cab find that thread.
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- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,668
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
Read this post then go on and read post 21 & 22.
viewtopic.php?p=77210#p77210
Closing an in ground pool
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viewtopic.php?p=77210#p77210
Closing an in ground pool
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If you are concerned about ice hurting the lights. Then take them out of the equation by unscrewing the one screw that holds it in place and place the entire light on the deck glass up. You can place a bucket on top of the light to shield it from any damage over the wintee