I just installed a new Hayward EcoStar pump and re-plumbed all my connections to the filter, waste, inflow, & outflow. However, I cannot successfully get it to prime. I filled my outflow pipe w/ water & reconnected before priming. I have filled & filled & filled my inflow side (via pump basket) and it still runs below instantly when it starts to "auto-prime." My filter is set on Filter. What am I missing/doing wrong?
help priming newly installed pump
- Thread starter soonernate
- Start date
y_not
0
What kind of filter do you have?
Are you bleeding the air out of it (filter) with the valve on top until mostly water starts to consistently flow?
Are you bleeding the air out of it (filter) with the valve on top until mostly water starts to consistently flow?
Filter is old Tagelus also w/ new multi-port valve assembly from neck up. The valve has these positions: Filter, Rinse, Backwash, Recirc, Closed, Waste, (& Winterize). Is one of these a way of bleeding air to help prime the pump? I currently have it set on Filter.
y_not
0
I'm not aware of sand filters having any sort of "air bleed" on the MP valve. They're always at the top, near the gauge and they vary a little in appearance. But all achieve the same result. Bleeding out air that gets trapped in the filter whenever the system is opened up in any way.
You just open that valve, fill the pump basket with water, make sure your seal is lubed with silicone grease, hand tighten it just slightly snug. Then fire it up, let it run till that air bleed valve stops spitting air and just squirts water. I like to open them as far as they'll go, short of the valve coming out.
Then close her up and you should be good.
How long has it been since you have cleaned and resettled the sand bed?
They can get so gummed up and reduce flow to a point that it'll start drawing in air in funny places.
See my sig for the link on how to do that. Do it 1x/yr.
The bleed valve should be part number 12 in this picture.
On the "neck" of the MP valve, opposite the gauge.
Gauge needle goes to zero when off right?
You just open that valve, fill the pump basket with water, make sure your seal is lubed with silicone grease, hand tighten it just slightly snug. Then fire it up, let it run till that air bleed valve stops spitting air and just squirts water. I like to open them as far as they'll go, short of the valve coming out.
Then close her up and you should be good.
How long has it been since you have cleaned and resettled the sand bed?
They can get so gummed up and reduce flow to a point that it'll start drawing in air in funny places.
See my sig for the link on how to do that. Do it 1x/yr.
The bleed valve should be part number 12 in this picture.
On the "neck" of the MP valve, opposite the gauge.
Gauge needle goes to zero when off right?
- Jun 20, 2012
- 439
Try starting the pump with the filter in recirculate. If it starts, let it run for awhile, then back wash, rinse and try again in filter mode.
My bet is you have a suction side air leak. Look around the new connections you made. Is the pool water high enough in the skimmer so no air is sucked in? Are the drain plugs on the new pump installed and snugged up with teflon?
"My bet is you have a suction side air leak. Look around the new connections you made. Is the pool water high enough in the skimmer so no air is sucked in? Are the drain plugs on the new pump installed and snugged up with teflon?
_________________
Dave S.
Site Owner
TFTestkits owner
TFTestkits , Pool Calculator , Pool School"
Dave - I have every connection/every thread nicely wrapped w/ teflon. The pool water level is well above adequate/above skimmer & all ports. I have verified all of my union fittings are snug (all are included in teflon wrapped threads as well). I have tried on Filter, Recirculate, Backwash. I have tried w/ the valve out to let air release as mentioned in a previous suggestion). I fill the pump basket w/ water & of course it only fills to level of inflow pipe. It is obvious to me that when taking all pipes off to inflow/outflow sources and replacing w/ all new PVC, new valves, etc, there is air in these new pipes between pool/ground level inflow to pump and between pump/filter, as well as filter to outflow. Am I missing another way to introduce water into pump & eliminate air from the system? I put lid on basket snug, then start pump. The pump goes through the auto-prime and fails each time.
Thank you for your input.
_________________
Dave S.
Site Owner
TFTestkits owner
TFTestkits , Pool Calculator , Pool School"
Dave - I have every connection/every thread nicely wrapped w/ teflon. The pool water level is well above adequate/above skimmer & all ports. I have verified all of my union fittings are snug (all are included in teflon wrapped threads as well). I have tried on Filter, Recirculate, Backwash. I have tried w/ the valve out to let air release as mentioned in a previous suggestion). I fill the pump basket w/ water & of course it only fills to level of inflow pipe. It is obvious to me that when taking all pipes off to inflow/outflow sources and replacing w/ all new PVC, new valves, etc, there is air in these new pipes between pool/ground level inflow to pump and between pump/filter, as well as filter to outflow. Am I missing another way to introduce water into pump & eliminate air from the system? I put lid on basket snug, then start pump. The pump goes through the auto-prime and fails each time.
Thank you for your input.
Hi, Nate,
The thing to remember is if the suction side of your system allows ABSOLUTELY no air in, it is almost impossible for the pump NOT to prime.
Did you check the drain plug(s) at the bottom of the strainer basket? It sure sounds like your connections are well done (although Teflon is probably not as good as pipe dope for anything bigger than 1") but I still think you have a suction side leak.
Once, I dropped an O-ring reassembling a union and couldn't find that air leak to save my life until I found the O-ring on the ground.
It can be any of a hundred things (but only on the suction side....it is unrelated to the pressure side of your system) but, unless your pump is too high above the pool level or your impeller is inoperative, then the cause is almost always a suction side leak.
The thing to remember is if the suction side of your system allows ABSOLUTELY no air in, it is almost impossible for the pump NOT to prime.
Did you check the drain plug(s) at the bottom of the strainer basket? It sure sounds like your connections are well done (although Teflon is probably not as good as pipe dope for anything bigger than 1") but I still think you have a suction side leak.
Once, I dropped an O-ring reassembling a union and couldn't find that air leak to save my life until I found the O-ring on the ground.
It can be any of a hundred things (but only on the suction side....it is unrelated to the pressure side of your system) but, unless your pump is too high above the pool level or your impeller is inoperative, then the cause is almost always a suction side leak.
'Hi, Nate,
The thing to remember is if the suction side of your system allows ABSOLUTELY no air in, it is almost impossible for the pump NOT to prime.
Did you check the drain plug(s) at the bottom of the strainer basket? It sure sounds like your connections are well done (although Teflon is probably not as good as pipe dope for anything bigger than 1") but I still think you have a suction side leak.
Once, I dropped an O-ring reassembling a union and couldn't find that air leak to save my life until I found the O-ring on the ground.
It can be any of a hundred things (but only on the suction side....it is unrelated to the pressure side of your system) but, unless your pump is too high above the pool level or your impeller is inoperative, then the cause is almost always a suction side leak.
_________________
Dave S.
Site Owner
TFTestkits owner
TFTestkits , Pool Calculator , Pool School"
Dave - The only place I'm seeing a possibility is around the filter neck, which is as tight as it can be placed. The threads for this old "V-neck" style multi-port valve filter connection are wrapped in teflon as well, but a very small amount of bubbles exist around the neck. Can something else be placed around to help seal this? Should I use pipe dope in these threads or place silicon sealant around the neck?
Also, since the new pump "Hayward EcoStar" instructions indicate to not use pipe dope, I've used teflon on all of the PVC connections, Jandy valves, & fittings. I have opted for the more expensive Pro Grade teflon (which really is not much higher in cost as the roll is larger).
Your responses have been greatly appreciated - Thank You.
The thing to remember is if the suction side of your system allows ABSOLUTELY no air in, it is almost impossible for the pump NOT to prime.
Did you check the drain plug(s) at the bottom of the strainer basket? It sure sounds like your connections are well done (although Teflon is probably not as good as pipe dope for anything bigger than 1") but I still think you have a suction side leak.
Once, I dropped an O-ring reassembling a union and couldn't find that air leak to save my life until I found the O-ring on the ground.
It can be any of a hundred things (but only on the suction side....it is unrelated to the pressure side of your system) but, unless your pump is too high above the pool level or your impeller is inoperative, then the cause is almost always a suction side leak.
_________________
Dave S.
Site Owner
TFTestkits owner
TFTestkits , Pool Calculator , Pool School"
Dave - The only place I'm seeing a possibility is around the filter neck, which is as tight as it can be placed. The threads for this old "V-neck" style multi-port valve filter connection are wrapped in teflon as well, but a very small amount of bubbles exist around the neck. Can something else be placed around to help seal this? Should I use pipe dope in these threads or place silicon sealant around the neck?
Also, since the new pump "Hayward EcoStar" instructions indicate to not use pipe dope, I've used teflon on all of the PVC connections, Jandy valves, & fittings. I have opted for the more expensive Pro Grade teflon (which really is not much higher in cost as the roll is larger).
Your responses have been greatly appreciated - Thank You.
The filter is not in the suction side, do that is not the problem.
I do not recall. ... Have you filled the pump basket with water and then quickly put the lid on and started the pump?
In my experience it is rare for a pump to not be able too prime ... and you have a powerful pump.
Once primed, it should stay primed. If water drains back out, then you need to look for leaks on the pressure side.
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
I do not recall. ... Have you filled the pump basket with water and then quickly put the lid on and started the pump?
In my experience it is rare for a pump to not be able too prime ... and you have a powerful pump.
Once primed, it should stay primed. If water drains back out, then you need to look for leaks on the pressure side.
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
"The filter is not in the suction side, do that is not the problem.
I do not recall. ... Have you filled the pump basket with water and then quickly put the lid on and started the pump?
In my experience it is rare for a pump to not be able too prime ... and you have a powerful pump.
Once primed, it should stay primed. If water drains back out, then you need to look for leaks on the pressure side.
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
_________________
Jason
Jason -
Thanks for reminding me that the filter is in the pressure side - not suction (was only thinking about where I saw "air"). Also, I'm having no other leaks. I will have to try a quick start on the pump after filling the basket later today. The pump cycles through the "Auto-prime" mode in it's own pace. However, I could "pause" it, fill the basket, then quickly "resume" and this should start the pump quickly. Thank you for the suggestion.
I do not recall. ... Have you filled the pump basket with water and then quickly put the lid on and started the pump?
In my experience it is rare for a pump to not be able too prime ... and you have a powerful pump.
Once primed, it should stay primed. If water drains back out, then you need to look for leaks on the pressure side.
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
_________________
Jason
Jason -
Thanks for reminding me that the filter is in the pressure side - not suction (was only thinking about where I saw "air"). Also, I'm having no other leaks. I will have to try a quick start on the pump after filling the basket later today. The pump cycles through the "Auto-prime" mode in it's own pace. However, I could "pause" it, fill the basket, then quickly "resume" and this should start the pump quickly. Thank you for the suggestion.
I know some may disagree with me, but I prefer using teflon paste on fittings 1.5" and larger as I have found many times for tape to leak either water or air on larger PVC fitings. There is also no need to use teflon tape on the union fitting itself as there is usually a rubber gasket inside that should provide an adequate seal. Good luck.
y_not
0
soonernate,
A little tip if I might suggest this.
There is a "quote" button at the upper right corner of each post in the thread. When you want to reply to a user's specific posting and include the content of that previous post in your reply.
Simply click that quote button and the site will do it for you, giving you a reply window with the text already quoted in a nice neat little box.
Like this.
The following is more advanced, but not difficult. So you can tackle it down the line when you're comfortable doing so. We also have a "testing" section on the forum.
Once you get the hang of it, you can even remove sections of that quote, so it's just down to 1 area that you want to focus your reply on.
When you are in the "compose/reply" page, you can also scroll down to the previous posts in the thread and you'll find a quote button there as well. Click it and the site will insert that quote wherever your cursor (insertion point "I Beam") is located in the compose window above.
This way you can reply to multiple posts at once, placing yours replies in between each. This is called "in-line" replying.
You can of course edit these as well, in this way you can dissect a previous post into pieces and reply to each piece.
You'll see these techniques used all over the forum. I use them a lot!
Have fun and happy posting!
A little tip if I might suggest this.
There is a "quote" button at the upper right corner of each post in the thread. When you want to reply to a user's specific posting and include the content of that previous post in your reply.
Simply click that quote button and the site will do it for you, giving you a reply window with the text already quoted in a nice neat little box.
Like this.
y_not said:
The following is more advanced, but not difficult. So you can tackle it down the line when you're comfortable doing so. We also have a "testing" section on the forum.
Once you get the hang of it, you can even remove sections of that quote, so it's just down to 1 area that you want to focus your reply on.
When you are in the "compose/reply" page, you can also scroll down to the previous posts in the thread and you'll find a quote button there as well. Click it and the site will insert that quote wherever your cursor (insertion point "I Beam") is located in the compose window above.
This way you can reply to multiple posts at once, placing yours replies in between each. This is called "in-line" replying.
You can of course edit these as well, in this way you can dissect a previous post into pieces and reply to each piece.
You'll see these techniques used all over the forum. I use them a lot!
Have fun and happy posting!
y_not said:soonernate,
A little tip if I might suggest this.
There is a "quote" button at the upper right corner of each post in the thread. When you want to reply to a user's specific posting and include the content of that previous post in your reply.
Simply click that quote button and the site will do it for you, giving you a reply window with the text already quoted in a nice neat little box.
Like this.
[quote="y_not":1z1t4llo]Test quote for example.
The following is more advanced, but not difficult. So you can tackle it down the line when you're comfortable doing so. We also have a "testing" section on the forum.
Once you get the hang of it, you can even remove sections of that quote, so it's just down to 1 area that you want to focus your reply on.
When you are in the "compose/reply" page, you can also scroll down to the previous posts in the thread and you'll find a quote button there as well. Click it and the site will insert that quote wherever your cursor (insertion point "I Beam") is located in the compose window above.
This way you can reply to multiple posts at once, placing yours replies in between each. This is called "in-line" replying.
You can of course edit these as well, in this way you can dissect a previous post into pieces and reply to each piece.
You'll see these techniques used all over the forum. I use them a lot!
Have fun and happy posting!
[/quote:1z1t4llo]Thanks for the tip y_not!