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Thread: bad spa water

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    bad spa water

    Hello TFP gurus,
    I have had little trouble with my spa these many years, using bromine + floater + ozonator + occasional bleach as needed.
    I test the bromine every 3-4 days using the ColorQ system.

    I recently noticed the bromine levels climbing, climbing, climbing-- without my adding anything-- then the water turned greenish but not cloudy.

    I figured something is growing in there and binding all my bromine as "bromamines", analagous to chloramines in the pool.
    So, I shocked the heck out of the water with bleach and MPS.

    Did I do right?

    If so, is there a way to measure free and total bromine similar to free and total chlorine? The ColorQ just gives one bromine reading.
    If I could have measured the effects earlier, I might have shocked the water sooner.
    Location: Media, PA (Philadelphia suburb).
    In-ground, 13,000 gallon pool, plaster, built 2008-9.
    Pump Whisper-flow 60 gpm DE filter
    Spa: 2013 Hot Springs/salt generator

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    Re: bad spa water

    You should be draining your tub a few times a year. Why not just drain and start fresh?
    -Kevin
    X-Pert Pool Service
    x-pertpool.com
    X-Pert Pool on Facebook and @XPertPoolServic on Twitter
    22,000 gal / 16' x 32' / Vinyl / Hayward s244t /Pentair SuperFlo 1 hp

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    Re: bad spa water

    Of course that would be an option. I do drain and refill every 4-6 months (the spa doesn't get frequent use).
    I recently refilled and didn't want to waste the water.

    I am still curious about answers to the questions I posed in the original post.
    Location: Media, PA (Philadelphia suburb).
    In-ground, 13,000 gallon pool, plaster, built 2008-9.
    Pump Whisper-flow 60 gpm DE filter
    Spa: 2013 Hot Springs/salt generator

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    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    San Rafael, CA USA
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    12,082

    Re: bad spa water

    As you add more bromine to the tub with tabs, the bromide bank increases and the ozonator will create more bromine from it. After some amount of time using tabs after a fill, you can probably remove them and just have the ozonator generate more bromine from the bromide bank. If you have too much bromide so that your ozonator is making too much bromine, you'd have to reduce your ozonator on-time.

    I'm not sure why the water has a green color unless your pH got high and you've got metals in the water.

    There isn't a test distinguishing between free bromine and combined bromine because monobromamine (NH2Br) is in equilibrium with monobromammonium ion (NH3Br+) and that produces a very reactive positive bromine ion (Br+) that reacts with DPD and other sanitizer indicator dyes. That's why all bromine tests are for Total Bromine and is also why monobromamine is still considered to be a sanitizer, even though it can smell.
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

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    Re: bad spa water

    Thank you chem geek.
    I continue to appreciate the knowledge and help provided by this discussion board!
    Location: Media, PA (Philadelphia suburb).
    In-ground, 13,000 gallon pool, plaster, built 2008-9.
    Pump Whisper-flow 60 gpm DE filter
    Spa: 2013 Hot Springs/salt generator

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    In the Industry

    X-PertPool's Avatar
    Join Date
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    Location
    Exeter, PA
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    Re: bad spa water

    FYI, I started my hot tub with Bromine and switched to just bleach after a month and haven't looked back.
    -Kevin
    X-Pert Pool Service
    x-pertpool.com
    X-Pert Pool on Facebook and @XPertPoolServic on Twitter
    22,000 gal / 16' x 32' / Vinyl / Hayward s244t /Pentair SuperFlo 1 hp

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