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Thread: Well I guess I need help....again *sigh*

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    hawkeyes's Avatar
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    Well I guess I need help....again *sigh*

    Shoot me. I let my test kit supplies get low and didn't replace them...been relying on Leslie's results (which have been "everything looks awesome!!"). I had noticed some scaling starting up again and HAVE been testing my own pH and trying to keep it around 7.4 for the past month. Other than that, today is the first day I have run the full numbers myself and here's what I am getting:

    Chlorine: 8 (salt cell had been dialed way up for who knows how long)
    CC: 1 (never had it at 1 before---it's always been at 0 or .5)
    pH: 7.4
    TA: 40 (eeeks!!! by keeping my pH low I obviously let my TA get too low, too)
    CYA: 40 (do you still add conditioner in the winter?)
    CH: 450 (always been high)
    Salt: 3100
    Water temp: 60

    So...obviously I will add baking soda to raise my TA (target 70???) What about the CYA? Do I need to add conditioner to get that up? What about the CC level? How negative can I run my water without freaking about corrosion but still try to combat scaling? I have been playing with the numbers in the Pool Calculator and now I'm confusing myself.

    Thank you!
    Advice?
    22,000 gal IG Pool & Spa, Fountain and Spa Spillway, Penatair IC-40 SWCG, Pentair Intelliflo Variable Speed Pump, Cartridge, Antigua Blue Wet-Edge

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    dmanb2b's Avatar
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    Re: Well I guess I need help....again *sigh*

    Hey Hawkeyes. You can wait until early spring to raise CYA and do not raise it right now as you need to go through the shock process first. Your CC reading is greater than 0.5ppm and would indicate the need to shock. To confirm you can perform the OFCLT making sure to turn off the SWG before doing so. Target 60 on your TA, therwise everything else looks pretty decent
    24'x52" AGP (13,500 Gallons), Intex SWG, (2)Solar Bear 4x20 panels, Hayward S220T Filter, 1/2hp Pentair Superflo

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    Re: Well I guess I need help....again *sigh*

    Quote Originally Posted by hawkeyes
    Shoot me.

    CYA: 40 (do you still add conditioner in the winter?)
    Water temp: 60
    OK BANG! Your dead! :P
    HEHE

    CYA won't test correctly below a water/sample temp of 70deg F. Did you bring it up to temp indoors first, before performing the test? If not, you need to re-do it.
    Use a warm/hot sink of water to float your CYA sample in to warm it up.
    Thanks UWV!!

    Other than that, I'd say dmanb2b has you covered.
    Although I would add that when you do raise your CYA in the spring as water temps warm up. That you should bring it up to the recommended 70-80ppm since you have a SWCG.
    Personally though, if I were running the SWCG over the winter, after you complete the shock process that is. I'd go ahead and raise the CYA once you get your pool cleared up. But only if you have to run the SWCG a lot and it's kinda warmish where you live. Which it sounds like it /w a water temp of 60F. Just don't want to overwork the cell with low CYA and higher FC loss is all.
    Otherwise, it's probably not a big deal.

    I trust you got refills on your reagents, FAS-DPD powder & titrant included?
    Thanks for reading... - Tony
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    hawkeyes's Avatar
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    Re: Well I guess I need help....again *sigh*

    No...I didn't bring up the water temp before testing the CYA. I will do that. It's been unseasonably warm here in Texas so far this fall/winter so the water temp is fairly high.

    Will do the overnight test tonight. At what water temp does the SWG stop producing chlorine?
    22,000 gal IG Pool & Spa, Fountain and Spa Spillway, Penatair IC-40 SWCG, Pentair Intelliflo Variable Speed Pump, Cartridge, Antigua Blue Wet-Edge

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    UnderWaterVanya's Avatar
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    Re: Well I guess I need help....again *sigh*

    OCLT is an overnight chlorine loss test - it is one of the three criteria for stopping r the shock process. Read about the shock process in pool school (top right on the Web site.

    Essentially, you measure your fc at night, then again in the morning. If you lose no more than 1ppm of FC you pass that test (best done when the FC levels are close to shock or at shock.


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    hawkeyes's Avatar
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    Re: Well I guess I need help....again *sigh*

    Quote Originally Posted by UnderWaterVanya
    OCLT is an overnight chlorine loss test - it is one of the three criteria for stopping r the shock process. Read about the shock process in pool school (top right on the Web site.

    Essentially, you measure your fc at night, then again in the morning. If you lose no more than 1ppm of FC you pass that test (best done when the FC levels are close to shock or at shock.


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    oops. WAs posting at same time. I figured out what the OCLT was so I edited my post. But now I am confused---do I need to do the OCLT *after* I bring the pool up to shock level or *before* (to see if I need to shock at all).
    22,000 gal IG Pool & Spa, Fountain and Spa Spillway, Penatair IC-40 SWCG, Pentair Intelliflo Variable Speed Pump, Cartridge, Antigua Blue Wet-Edge

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    Re: Well I guess I need help....again *sigh*

    Quote Originally Posted by hawkeyes
    Quote Originally Posted by UnderWaterVanya
    OCLT is an overnight chlorine loss test - it is one of the three criteria for stopping r the shock process. Read about the shock process in pool school (top right on the Web site.

    Essentially, you measure your fc at night, then again in the morning. If you lose no more than 1ppm of FC you pass that test (best done when the FC levels are close to shock or at shock.


    Sent via Tapatalk...

    oops. WAs posting at same time. I figured out what the OCLT was so I edited my post. But now I am confused---do I need to do the OCLT *after* I bring the pool up to shock level or *before* (to see if I need to shock at all).
    It should be at least the minimum for your CYA level. If you do boost it, you'll need to give it plenty of time to mix, so you have a good sample. Remember, you're ruling out loss to sunlight, so it will not be higher or lower depending on FC level, it should be a fixed ppm.

    Consider this: what if the overnight loss is 3, but you only had 2 to start with? You'd see only a 2 ppm drop, when it should have been 3.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
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    hawkeyes's Avatar
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    Re: Well I guess I need help....again *sigh*

    Thanks for the replies. I just ran the numbers again with all my new regents and my CC reads at .5 I'm thinking it's ok?

    I had a few boxes of baking soda so I added those last night. I need to get more today. My TA reads 50 now...I will target 60. By warming up the water temp, my CYA now reads 50. I will add conditioner to get that up to 70 since it looks like temps next week are still supposed to be fairly warm.

    So here's my question......with my readings as they are now (7.8 pH which I will add acid to bring down to 7.4 as soon I finish typing this post), my CSI is -.29 and says "balanced". If I go off the target column (with pH at 7.4, TA of 60 and CYA at 70) my CA goes to -.62 (corosion likely). Is this level still ok?
    22,000 gal IG Pool & Spa, Fountain and Spa Spillway, Penatair IC-40 SWCG, Pentair Intelliflo Variable Speed Pump, Cartridge, Antigua Blue Wet-Edge

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    Re: Well I guess I need help....again *sigh*

    Quote Originally Posted by hawkeyes
    Thanks for the replies. I just ran the numbers again with all my new regents and my CC reads at .5 I'm thinking it's ok?

    I had a few boxes of baking soda so I added those last night. I need to get more today. My TA reads 50 now...I will target 60. By warming up the water temp, my CYA now reads 50. I will add conditioner to get that up to 70 since it looks like temps next week are still supposed to be fairly warm.

    So here's my question......with my readings as they are now (7.8 pH which I will add acid to bring down to 7.4 as soon I finish typing this post), my CSI is -.29 and says "balanced". If I go off the target column (with pH at 7.4, TA of 60 and CYA at 70) my CA goes to -.62 (corosion likely). Is this level still ok?
    No. My personal experience is that CSI is an accurate predictor of scaling and etching. You should try to keep it as close to zero as possible, without becoming obsessive. But be sure to change the water temperature, too. It affects CSI. And realize that if you add acid to lower pH, you will also lower TA a small amount. Why not just aim for 7.5 or 7.6 pH? Less acid used, less worry. It's a win-win.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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