Had the above hayward heater installed about a year and a half ago. Of course no longer under warranty and now the temperature control buttons don't work (meaning you can't turn the temp setting up or down). When pushed nothing happens and it continues to show water temperature. No error messages show up. The Spa/pool/standby button works just fine. Doesn't it seem reasonable that the problem is the display pad and not the control board? The display pad is $65 vs $200+ for the board.
Hayward H400 FDP Buttons temp buttons don't work
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I would check all the wiring from the pad to the board and make sure something didn't come loose first. Assuming that's all good and tight I would guess it's the control pad though could be the board.
y_not
0
Those buttons are usually controlled by tact switches.
Little tiny, metal button switches that go "tick" when you press them.
Of course you don't see the switch itself unless you take the button assy. apart.
Most circuits I have seen put them on a PCB, be it a flexi board or a hard silicone layer PCB. One some the engineers put them separately from the main PCB and use a flat PCB wire ribbon cable to connect the two together. Other engineers put it on the actual PCB itself.
Just depends on the complexity of the main circuit board and unit overall, as well as what mood the engineers were in that designed it.
But, the odds are in your favor that those tact switches are on a separate PCB from the main board.
Sometimes you can get a bad solder joint at one, or both connections where the ribbon cable connects the two. Other times it actually breaks, the wire itself from movement. If it's on the "button board" side, then great, just replace that, but if it's on the main PCB side, then it has to be replaced too.
I have even seen situations where both are bad, due to bad solder joints.
If you're interested in how that happens more so these days than it ever did, read here.
Why Modern Electronics Fail
If it turns out to be just a short, or bad solder joint, or even broken ribbon cable wire. The easy thing to do is just replace the offending part.
Unless, that is, you are handy with a multi-meter, soldering iron, flux, Soldapult and wick.
Little tiny, metal button switches that go "tick" when you press them.
Of course you don't see the switch itself unless you take the button assy. apart.
Most circuits I have seen put them on a PCB, be it a flexi board or a hard silicone layer PCB. One some the engineers put them separately from the main PCB and use a flat PCB wire ribbon cable to connect the two together. Other engineers put it on the actual PCB itself.
Just depends on the complexity of the main circuit board and unit overall, as well as what mood the engineers were in that designed it.
But, the odds are in your favor that those tact switches are on a separate PCB from the main board.
Sometimes you can get a bad solder joint at one, or both connections where the ribbon cable connects the two. Other times it actually breaks, the wire itself from movement. If it's on the "button board" side, then great, just replace that, but if it's on the main PCB side, then it has to be replaced too.
I have even seen situations where both are bad, due to bad solder joints.
If you're interested in how that happens more so these days than it ever did, read here.
Why Modern Electronics Fail
If it turns out to be just a short, or bad solder joint, or even broken ribbon cable wire. The easy thing to do is just replace the offending part.
Unless, that is, you are handy with a multi-meter, soldering iron, flux, Soldapult and wick.
I have seen these where it's the display board that is not accepting the commands of the buttons. The only time I see the buttons go is when they are worn thru and exposed to the elements.
Now a word of caution, sometimes you have to replace the display board and the control board. Double whammy! I just had one today like this. First I saw a burned resistor on the control board but nothing worked and replaced it but nothing worked. Then replaced the display board and everything came alive and heater worked fine. So I had to replace BOTH boards.
Also I will provide you this info, even though your systems is out of warranty, I would still call and complain to anyone at Hayward that will listen. You might even have to complain twice but I have seen customers get new boards after the unit was two years old just becasue they complained enough.
Now a word of caution, sometimes you have to replace the display board and the control board. Double whammy! I just had one today like this. First I saw a burned resistor on the control board but nothing worked and replaced it but nothing worked. Then replaced the display board and everything came alive and heater worked fine. So I had to replace BOTH boards.
Also I will provide you this info, even though your systems is out of warranty, I would still call and complain to anyone at Hayward that will listen. You might even have to complain twice but I have seen customers get new boards after the unit was two years old just becasue they complained enough.
y_not
0
This may be helpful.
From the FTC
"Implied warranties are created by state law, and all states have them. Almost every purchase you make is covered by an implied warranty.
<snip>
Implied warranty coverage can last as long as four years, although the length of the coverage varies from state to state. A lawyer or a state consumer protection office can provide more information about implied warranty coverage in your state."
From: http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/edu/pubs/consume ... pro17.shtm
There is other info on this as well, but I can't locate it atm.
Basically, just because they say it only has a 1yr warranty, well, that doesn't mean anything. You are entitled to a reasonable warranty period beyond that 1 yr to protect you from failures due to manufacturer defects.
Also, under federal law, a "Full" written warranty has not time limit. Only a limited warr.
Yes, companies fight you on this. But that's what the FTC is for and that's also what small claims is for. Costs you a 20spot or a little more, or less depending on your state. You file your grievance and claim against the company, they call you, settle it out of court if you drop the charges and you get your product fixed.
From the FTC
"Implied warranties are created by state law, and all states have them. Almost every purchase you make is covered by an implied warranty.
<snip>
Implied warranty coverage can last as long as four years, although the length of the coverage varies from state to state. A lawyer or a state consumer protection office can provide more information about implied warranty coverage in your state."
From: http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/edu/pubs/consume ... pro17.shtm
There is other info on this as well, but I can't locate it atm.
Basically, just because they say it only has a 1yr warranty, well, that doesn't mean anything. You are entitled to a reasonable warranty period beyond that 1 yr to protect you from failures due to manufacturer defects.
Also, under federal law, a "Full" written warranty has not time limit. Only a limited warr.
Yes, companies fight you on this. But that's what the FTC is for and that's also what small claims is for. Costs you a 20spot or a little more, or less depending on your state. You file your grievance and claim against the company, they call you, settle it out of court if you drop the charges and you get your product fixed.