This cover pump died so I took it apart! Here are the pictures https://plus.google.com/u/0/102527211383561562154/posts/fjV1pgHkMSA
Rule Cover Pump (Inside part pictures)
- Thread starter X-PertPool
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y_not
0
Totally a blown SMD cap, you can see it leaked all over the upper left side there. A bottom leak, where the lower seal blew out.
Totally fixable.
You could also have some pretty major oxidation there at the top, or it could just be junk on the surface. Hard to tell from the pic
Totally fixable.
You could also have some pretty major oxidation there at the top, or it could just be junk on the surface. Hard to tell from the pic
yeah I noticed that wasn't sure if the part broke off when I pulled it apart or not. Looks like the silicone barrier started to leak at one point which I assume added to the oxidation on the top.
If I wanted to try to fix this myself how do I find a replacement capactior? I tried googling and I'm not sure what to type in based off those numbers off the top.
If I wanted to try to fix this myself how do I find a replacement capactior? I tried googling and I'm not sure what to type in based off those numbers off the top.
y_not
0
Try Digikey or Mouser.
They offer some serious electronics parts, just about everything under the sun.
They'll have data sheets on the different models and such so you can compare their tolerances, temp rating and so on.
Badcaps.net can help you out too, they have a list of cap brands to avoid and good ones to go with in their forum. If one blew, it's advisable to replace all the others of that same size on the PCB.
I have solder instructions for SMD caps if you need it.
They offer some serious electronics parts, just about everything under the sun.
They'll have data sheets on the different models and such so you can compare their tolerances, temp rating and so on.
Badcaps.net can help you out too, they have a list of cap brands to avoid and good ones to go with in their forum. If one blew, it's advisable to replace all the others of that same size on the PCB.
I have solder instructions for SMD caps if you need it.
I've never worked on trying to repair something like this before and I'm having trouble narrowing down what I need.
Do I need any more information than this?
10
CHA.
DD9
10 would be Capacitance 10 pF?
CHA. uh?
DD9 uh? +/- 0.5 pF?
Termination style you said was SMD?
Do I need any more information than this?
10
CHA.
DD9
10 would be Capacitance 10 pF?
CHA. uh?
DD9 uh? +/- 0.5 pF?
Termination style you said was SMD?
y_not
0
Really I'm at a loss.
I just did some digging for over an hour and can't find that style of marking anywhere.
But that doesn't mean it can't be identified.
They usually use a 3 digit code, but it's letter+number+letter, so that doesn't match.
You'll find the capacitance rating in Picofarads or Microfarads, there are others but these are the most common.
Then you'll find it's voltage and tolerance rating. That's the minimum.
Sometimes you'll find the series on the small ones and a makers mark, sometimes not.
The problem is, there just aren't any solid standards. There are some, but each manufacturer is free to mark them, or not mark them how they choose.
I suspect that one of those is the series, specifically CHA series. But I couldn't find a match for that with any of my searches. I by no means exhausted all avenues though.
What we do when we can't find what a cap is, IE it's damaged, no markings say on a ceramic SMD cap, etc... We test the components in the circuit that drives it, to determine what the voltage is and design specs.
IE. What the IC outputs to the CAP and so on.
Or, we test the neighboring caps using an capacitive meter. But they run about $80 for a self assemble kit that's really good, or about $50/60-$100 on eBay for a used one.
It would help if you knew what that manufacturer of that cap is. I looked at the photos, they're really high res and I can get pretty good detail if I view them directly, outside the browser. But I see no mark on them, other than a period at the end of the 2rd row, which could possibly indicate an abbreviation for the manufacturer and not the series.
They all appear to be the same manufacturer, as they have used a purple anode mark on them. Now that I look further, from what I can glean from the color in the picture and also by comparing more of them, it's not the bright purple that is typically used by Sanyo. It's more of a dark purple/blue, almost black. It's too hard to tell from the image for sure, but I'm betting it's black, as most of the colors are pretty vivid.
Maybe they used the same manufacturer as they did with the large electrolytic radial cap in the pic. I can't see enough of the side to tell what the maker is. You could try their data sheets, find their catalog and see what their marking method is for their SMD, also known as SMT, caps are.
Might hit the nail on the head, but might not. As in it's a different manufacturer. But that's one thing I'd try.
Of note.
Those SMD's could be polymer caps, not wet electrolytic. Hence no vent in the top, but at such a low farad rating, vents aren't necessarily used or needed. Polymers are really good, reliable caps and provide constant ESR ratings at higher temps, unlike wet electrolytic/radial caps. But they aren't failure proof by any means. Really it looks like that board got wet, in fact it looks wet and that is the cause of the failure more than anything. It's even likely that cap failed as a result of the aftermath from another component failing internally up-stream.
Lastly, I'm by no means an electronics component expert or electrical engineer, just a nerd that knows enough to get by. But always learning.
So what I would do is post your photos to BadCaps.net and ask for help identifying it. They're still very much so, an active forum and they know their stuff.
Here are some links that I use from time to time and some others I grabbed for you.
http://www.capacitorlab.com/index.htm
*This website has some insanely detailed info on how to re-cap a board, as well as links to tutorials on soldering. It's all on the left hand side.
http://www.robotoid.com/appnotes/electr ... kings.html
http://www.radio-electronics.com/info/d ... acitor.php
*See bottom table.
Also check the next pg. for ceramic cap markings.
http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Capacitor_Codes
http://my.execpc.com/~endlr/markings.html
http://www.docstoc.com/docs/27914472/SMD-Codes#
*It appears you have to register or login with FB to download it. It seems to be free, but I'm not sure.
I just did some digging for over an hour and can't find that style of marking anywhere.
But that doesn't mean it can't be identified.
They usually use a 3 digit code, but it's letter+number+letter, so that doesn't match.
You'll find the capacitance rating in Picofarads or Microfarads, there are others but these are the most common.
Then you'll find it's voltage and tolerance rating. That's the minimum.
Sometimes you'll find the series on the small ones and a makers mark, sometimes not.
The problem is, there just aren't any solid standards. There are some, but each manufacturer is free to mark them, or not mark them how they choose.
I suspect that one of those is the series, specifically CHA series. But I couldn't find a match for that with any of my searches. I by no means exhausted all avenues though.
What we do when we can't find what a cap is, IE it's damaged, no markings say on a ceramic SMD cap, etc... We test the components in the circuit that drives it, to determine what the voltage is and design specs.
IE. What the IC outputs to the CAP and so on.
Or, we test the neighboring caps using an capacitive meter. But they run about $80 for a self assemble kit that's really good, or about $50/60-$100 on eBay for a used one.
It would help if you knew what that manufacturer of that cap is. I looked at the photos, they're really high res and I can get pretty good detail if I view them directly, outside the browser. But I see no mark on them, other than a period at the end of the 2rd row, which could possibly indicate an abbreviation for the manufacturer and not the series.
They all appear to be the same manufacturer, as they have used a purple anode mark on them. Now that I look further, from what I can glean from the color in the picture and also by comparing more of them, it's not the bright purple that is typically used by Sanyo. It's more of a dark purple/blue, almost black. It's too hard to tell from the image for sure, but I'm betting it's black, as most of the colors are pretty vivid.
Maybe they used the same manufacturer as they did with the large electrolytic radial cap in the pic. I can't see enough of the side to tell what the maker is. You could try their data sheets, find their catalog and see what their marking method is for their SMD, also known as SMT, caps are.
Might hit the nail on the head, but might not. As in it's a different manufacturer. But that's one thing I'd try.
Of note.
Those SMD's could be polymer caps, not wet electrolytic. Hence no vent in the top, but at such a low farad rating, vents aren't necessarily used or needed. Polymers are really good, reliable caps and provide constant ESR ratings at higher temps, unlike wet electrolytic/radial caps. But they aren't failure proof by any means. Really it looks like that board got wet, in fact it looks wet and that is the cause of the failure more than anything. It's even likely that cap failed as a result of the aftermath from another component failing internally up-stream.
Lastly, I'm by no means an electronics component expert or electrical engineer, just a nerd that knows enough to get by. But always learning.
So what I would do is post your photos to BadCaps.net and ask for help identifying it. They're still very much so, an active forum and they know their stuff.
Here are some links that I use from time to time and some others I grabbed for you.
http://www.capacitorlab.com/index.htm
*This website has some insanely detailed info on how to re-cap a board, as well as links to tutorials on soldering. It's all on the left hand side.
http://www.robotoid.com/appnotes/electr ... kings.html
http://www.radio-electronics.com/info/d ... acitor.php
*See bottom table.
Also check the next pg. for ceramic cap markings.
http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Capacitor_Codes
http://my.execpc.com/~endlr/markings.html
http://www.docstoc.com/docs/27914472/SMD-Codes#
*It appears you have to register or login with FB to download it. It seems to be free, but I'm not sure.
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