Green Tinted Water

[Gary R]

Hi to all!

Water in pool is tinted geen but still clear. Getting lots of pine needles and leaves falling into pool. When we open the pool for the day there is a green film on the bottom that cleans up with the pool robot. I'm assuming the green is from the vegetation in the water and not algae.

FC=3-4
CYA=35
PH=7.4-7.5
TA=100
CH=360

Also using poolheater as needed. Water temp=78-84

Thanks for any advice.

GaryR

 

[Butterfly]

I suggest you do an OCLT to determine if organics is the problem. Sure sounds like it is.

 

[Christian]

What does your CC test at?

 

[Gary R]

Many thanks for the replys!

Haven't tested for CC but will in the a.m.. Just as a precaution I shocked with some calcium hypo, 1st time since May. Also, been using liquid chlorine since May without an issue. I have a heater bypass for when I shock, not sure that's necessary but I use as a precaution.

Regards.

Gary bR.

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

Could you describe what you mean when you say you shocked the pool? If you mean you did a one dose bump of the chlorine then take a minute to go to pool school and read up on what we consider to be the proper way to shock a pool.


- Sent using Tapatalk

 

[Gary R]

I have read the School Version but yeah, I did the did the one dose dump of Cal-Hypo, just trying to get rid some product.

Porbably getting close to closing pool in a couple weeks and lower pool level, that should take care of any extra CYA.

Many thanks for responding.

Gary R.

 

[y_not]

Pretty much a waste if you just toss it in there and don't keep following up with CL additions to stay at shock level.

Might as well give it away, since it's adding calcium to your pool and you're already right where you want it with gunite/plaster. Or just save it for the day you need to raise CH if your fill water is low in it.

Also, cal-hypo doesn't add CYA, it's about the only stabilized chlorine source that doesn't.

Also, keep in mind that at low FC levels, if you get an OCLT of =/<1.0ppm FC, that still doesn't mean there isn't a problem. With low FC levels like yours at that CYA, it's hard to get an accurate picture of how much CL is really being consumed. You could easily see a loss of only 1ppm FC at a normal 3ppm, say hey, it's fine I lost no more than 1. Yet throw enough CL in there to bring it up to shock, about 12ppm and see many PPM disappear in less than an hour. 30min later, you have 8/10 ppm FC. YIKES!

It's just funny that way.
So if you really want to know, assuming you don't get any more than 1ppm FC loss overnight, I'd bring it up to shock, then see where you're at.

 

[Gary R]

Again, I'm very appreciative of all the great adviceI receive on this forum!!!!

After going through the shock process using a couple of bags of Cal-hypo and LC, which tested to about 12 ppm for a couple days, the has it's nice blue color and appears clear. FC is still at 10+

My concern now is about exposing the heater to the higher chlorine level (it's bypassed and drained for now) Should I wait a day or so for the chlorine level to come down to normal range before allowing water to re-enter the heater and start heating the pool?

Many thanks,

Gary R.

 

[y_not]

Did you pass the OCLT and CC tests?
You have to pass all 3 criteria before you're done shocking.

 

[Gary R]

OK, I think we're looking good:

PH=7.5 to 7.6
FC=10+
CC=0
No detectable FC drop overnight.

Water is blue and I can see the bottom drain, but there is slight cloudiness which I assume will filter out over the next few days.

My concern now is about exposing the heater to the higher chlorine level (it's bypassed and drained for now) Should I wait a day or so for the chlorine level to come down to normal range before allowing water to re-enter the heater and start heating the pool?

Thanks for all the help!!!

Gary R

 

[chem geek]

My concern now is about exposing the heater to the higher chlorine level (it's bypassed and drained for now) Should I wait a day or so for the chlorine level to come down to normal range before allowing water to re-enter the heater and start heating the pool?

12 ppm FC with 35 ppm CYA has the same active chlorine level as 0.5 ppm FC with no CYA so there was no need to bypass the heater. There has never been a report of heater damage from shocking the pool when there is CYA in the water.

 

[Gary R]

Good information, thank you very much!!!!

Gary R

 

[y_not]

OK, I think we're looking good:

PH=7.5 to 7.6
FC=10+
CC=0
No detectable FC drop overnight.
...

You say your FC is 10+??
Were you not able to get an accurate reading with the FAS-DPD drop based titration test? This is the whole point of this test, to be able to obtain accurate numbers to +/- 0.5ppm FC.

I see your original post even shows an FC range of 3-4. As if you using the OTO test, or maybe just DPD /w the red shades. (Minus the powder)

Anything over 10ppm FC will give a false reading on pH, it'll typically read high. You should always wait till FC is at 10ppm or lower to test pH.

I would run the water through the heater at shock levels to eliminate any possible organics/algae that may be lurking in there. Ya never know.

Have you cleaned and resettled the sand bed in your filter within the past season? If not, see my link in sig.
If it doesn't clear up fast enough after that, then you can add DE/Cellulose to your filter. See pool school, use less cellulose than you would DE.
Also, always backwash when you hit 25% of your starting clean pressure, but no sooner.

 

[Gary R]

FAS-DPD drop based titration test indicates FC=12 24 drops to clear and CC=0 Did not change back to pink.
and ph+7.5 before I went through the shock process.

Running water through the heater now.

Have you cleaned and resettled the sand bed in your filter within the past season?
No, and it's probably never was done by the former owner.
Sounds easy I'll probably give it a try after the season ends in two or three weeks.
The pressure level on filter is always on 19 psi and has never increased beyond 20 at any given time.
I usually backwash about once a month.

Hopefully the pool will clear up in a few days.

Best regards and thanks,

Gary R

 

[y_not]

Sounds like you have passed all the criteria.
Except..... if you water isn't completely clear yet, you actually haven't passed that one, but you're close.

Did you bring pH down to 7.2 before shocking? If not, I wouldn't worry too much about it as you can't get an accurate reading to adjust it right now with high FC.