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Thread: Closing and main drain

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    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Way north of Chicago

    Closing and main drain

    After calling around and finding out that closing services are around $350-400, I think we're going to try doing it ourselves. I think Speedo is correct in pointing out that there's plenty of advice here, even some differing opinions which shows posters have really thought about what they've said. Plus I've got a brother-in-law with experience and the pool store (Great Escape) here serves a lot of self-closers and generally seems pretty good in terms of selling the right supplies.

    Just to make sure I'm on the correct path: Our equipment (pump, filter, heater) is all in the basement of the house. Lines for it go up and exit the house at ground level, then back under the pool deck. So, once we drain water below skimmers and returns, it should be pretty straightforward to get most of the water out of the skimmers and returns. I'm thinking open the pump drain and blow back from the pool.

    But, to be sure on what I read here about the main drain? That line also goes from bottom of pool up to above grade. Do I blow it out from pump side until bubbles come out, then just close the Jandy valve up by the house and assume the air stays in the pipe for 6 months? There'll be like 6' of water pushing up all that time. On the other hand, the water level in the pipe will be about 18" below grade because I'll lower the pool water, so that's pretty close to the frost line. Without actually plugging the drain in the pool, I can't imagine antifreeze staying in the pipe. Am I missing something here?
    25000 gal inground curved L shape - concrete, fiberglass walls - with Jacuzzi Sherlock 160 cartridge filter, Laars Lite LLG gas heater & Klean-a-tron robot
    near the pool: Cookshack Smokette, Akorn Kamado grill, putting green
    in the shed: Deere greens mower, Simplicity FC-16 front cut mower

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    X-PertPool's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Exeter, PA

    Re: Closing and main drain

    You would blow from the equipment side until bubbles come out of the drain and then shut off the jandy valve. Do valves leak OH YES! Although jandy valves are basically the highest quality valve and are usually air tight. So after you blow it out and close the valve listen quietly for a sizzling sound of air escaping if you don't hear anything you should be okay. Although I personally don't like to trust valves and will back up that valve with a rubber compression plug. But, there (at least in my mind) the possibility that the valve is leaking through the handles stem somehow. So I actually like to install a glue union in front of the valve and will use a rubber plug solely to trap air into the line (and then duct tape that plug into place so it can slowly be pushed out). In your case you probably shouldn't start cutting into your plumbing since you are below water level. So I would blow it out and turn off the jandy valve then back that up with a rubber plug in case the jandy valve did leak. You can then take a squirt bottle filled with a mix of dish soap and water and spray it all over the valve and look for any bubbling. I also like to either remove the handle or tape the handle in place so no one can move the handle by accident and unleash the pressure.
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    22,000 gal / 16' x 32' / Vinyl / Hayward s244t /Pentair SuperFlo 1 hp

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