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Thread: Chemical Adjuncts

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    Chemical Adjuncts

    As I contemplate a re-do of my pumping station, I notice that a significant number of pool owners have SWG's in their stations. Since this apparatus supplies the ionic chlorine to the system, I assume these owners do not use the BBB system ( or at least the bleach part of it ). My question therefore is, what other chemicals do SWG owners add to their pools on a regular basis; how often, and in what quantities? I would presume the main reasons for "having" (or installing) such an expensive device, would be either a significant savings in the cost of chemicals, or a giant advantage in convenience, as regards the overall time saved in pool-testing & the purchasing and applying adjunct pool chemicals. All thoughts on this question are appreciated.
    15K gallon in-ground gunite/plaster pool(58 year-old Anthony Bros.), 15'x30', depth 3-1/2'->8' . Hayward Ecostar pump. Hayward DE-3600 filter with Variflow 710XR50 1-1/2" valve. Polaris 380 cleaner & "the pool cleaner (suction)". Main-drain suction disconnected. New skimmer suction plumbing 2" PVC. Single return line 1" copper. Cleaner line 1-1/2" copper, re-plumbed in pump-house (PVC) for either suction or pressure. Hayward 3/4HP PB4 booster pump. Leslie's 260 BTU Coppertherm heater. All new suction interconnect plumbing 2". Return plumbing, filter-to-booster, 1-1/2". Single return to pool 1". All equipment located 2-1/2ft. above pool bottom level ( neg. 5ft. from surface ).

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Chemical Adjuncts

    What they adds depends on water chemistry. It's almost certain they'll need to add acid. They might need some Calcium, depending on the fill water. They might need to add some baking soda. Borates are optional. CYA and salt are necessary, but not too often.

    There have been threads that have crunched the numbers and shown that buying salt and running a SWG is comparable in cost to buying bleach. But it's certainly more convenient. One can raise the water level to allow for evaporation, adjust pH, and take off for a week without any anxiety.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Chemical Adjuncts

    I agree with Richard. The relative cost is really about the same once you take into account cell replacement, etc. The SWG is really more about the convenience of not lugging around bleach bottles and being able to easily be gone on vacation without worrying about the FC level.

    The SWG will almost certainly require more acid as the SWG raises the pH. Although, having a lower TA and possibly adding borates can reduce how fast the pH rises.

    Beyond the FC and pH affects, all other chemistry levels are adjusted the same as any other pool.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    Swampwoman's Avatar
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    Re: Chemical Adjuncts

    ^Then again, SWG can be considerably cheaper to run if you happen to be a clumsy idiot who's stupid enough to dose your pool with chlorine wearing your good dress pants on the way to work like yours truly this a.m.
    Normally, I wear my "bleachy yoga suit" but was running late. Add thenow-splotchy yoga suit, terricloth robe and good dress pants to the mix and I shoulda bought an SWG
    In ground extended Grecian, 22,000 gal, Hayward 220t sand filter, vinyl liner, dolphin m4 supreme.
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    UnderWaterVanya's Avatar
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    Re: Chemical Adjuncts

    Quote Originally Posted by Swampwoman
    ^Then again, SWG can be considerably cheaper to run if you happen to be a clumsy idiot who's stupid enough to dose your pool with chlorine wearing your good dress pants on the way to work like yours truly this a.m.
    Normally, I wear my "bleachy yoga suit" but was running late. Add thenow-splotchy yoga suit, terricloth robe and good dress pants to the mix and I shoulda bought an SWG
    Ouch! I have a brother in law who does my chlorination - he's an adult but mentally challenged (literal not making fun). He does a good job unless he is in hurry then he pours from his 6' height and splashes himself. I coax him to do it slow down about an inch from the water but every now and then - there's a splash zone!
    Inlaws Pool Boy since June 14th 2012, Pool built ~ 2003, In-Ground, 16'x32'
    13500 gal, Vinyl Liner, Fiberglass Slide, TF-100 Test Kit, Hayward 210T
    sand filter, A.O. Smith 1.5HP main pump motor (C48L2N134C1),
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    Re: Chemical Adjuncts

    Thanks for the input. I remember that one of the first things I did when I bought this place 41 years ago, was dump the chlorine bottles in the pump house that the previous owner had left, and switched to dry chemicals. You folks provided the answer I was hoping for --- convenience. I am an old goat that has to carry my morning coffee with both hands, to keep from spilling it. Additionally, none of the local grocery stores carry straight un-adulterated bleach. IMHO Leslie's are a bunch of bandits, and the local Walmart, Sam's Club & Costco a absolute zoos ( I have to keep looking over my shoulder all the time, to avoid being involved in a fist-fight between line-crashers and coupon abusers ).
    15K gallon in-ground gunite/plaster pool(58 year-old Anthony Bros.), 15'x30', depth 3-1/2'->8' . Hayward Ecostar pump. Hayward DE-3600 filter with Variflow 710XR50 1-1/2" valve. Polaris 380 cleaner & "the pool cleaner (suction)". Main-drain suction disconnected. New skimmer suction plumbing 2" PVC. Single return line 1" copper. Cleaner line 1-1/2" copper, re-plumbed in pump-house (PVC) for either suction or pressure. Hayward 3/4HP PB4 booster pump. Leslie's 260 BTU Coppertherm heater. All new suction interconnect plumbing 2". Return plumbing, filter-to-booster, 1-1/2". Single return to pool 1". All equipment located 2-1/2ft. above pool bottom level ( neg. 5ft. from surface ).

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    UnderWaterVanya's Avatar
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    Re: Chemical Adjuncts

    Quote Originally Posted by Brewer
    Thanks for the input. I remember that one of the first things I did when I bought this place 41 years ago, was dump the chlorine bottles in the pump house that the previous owner had left, and switched to dry chemicals. You folks provided the answer I was hoping for --- convenience. I am an old goat that has to carry my morning coffee with both hands, to keep from spilling it. Additionally, none of the local grocery stores carry straight un-adulterated bleach. IMHO Leslie's are a bunch of bandits, and the local
    Yup - SWG seems perfect for you. You'll still use bleach for shocking when needed and at startup.

    Quote Originally Posted by Brewer
    Walmart, Sam's Club & Costco a absolute zoos ( I have to keep looking over my shoulder all the time, to avoid being involved in a fist-fight between line-crashers and coupon abusers ).
    What do they do to the poor defenseless coupons?
    Inlaws Pool Boy since June 14th 2012, Pool built ~ 2003, In-Ground, 16'x32'
    13500 gal, Vinyl Liner, Fiberglass Slide, TF-100 Test Kit, Hayward 210T
    sand filter, A.O. Smith 1.5HP main pump motor (C48L2N134C1),
    Hayward SuperPump (model ?), Polaris 380 & PB4 Booster Pump

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    Re: Chemical Adjuncts

    Agreed. SWG is for you. Once you do it, you'll have to dump acid in some, but it is a whole lot better than dealing with bleach.
    Built in 1957 44,000 gallon in-ground, Wet Edge Primera Stone in Sky Blue, Intelliflo VF Pump, 600 lb. Pentair Triton II TR-100 Sand Filter, CircuPool RG 60 Plus SWG, TF-100 test kit
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    Re: Chemical Adjuncts

    As for the acid, my pool is surrounded by evergreen conifers that continually drop acidic needles into it. As a currently "unwashed" Trichlor/Puck freak, my only additions are a mid-season 2-bag shocking and 3# addition of soda-ash. The Pool School blurb (as I recall) said SWG owners would have to periodically add Cyanuric Acid. Would 2 or 3 Tri-chlor pucks per season do the same thing?
    Regarding UnderWaterVanya's "coupon" query, the usual problem with the abusers, is trying to foist coupons on the cashier that are not recognized by that store, or out of date ones, and then arguing with the cashier while the check-out line grows until it reaches the back of the store.
    15K gallon in-ground gunite/plaster pool(58 year-old Anthony Bros.), 15'x30', depth 3-1/2'->8' . Hayward Ecostar pump. Hayward DE-3600 filter with Variflow 710XR50 1-1/2" valve. Polaris 380 cleaner & "the pool cleaner (suction)". Main-drain suction disconnected. New skimmer suction plumbing 2" PVC. Single return line 1" copper. Cleaner line 1-1/2" copper, re-plumbed in pump-house (PVC) for either suction or pressure. Hayward 3/4HP PB4 booster pump. Leslie's 260 BTU Coppertherm heater. All new suction interconnect plumbing 2". Return plumbing, filter-to-booster, 1-1/2". Single return to pool 1". All equipment located 2-1/2ft. above pool bottom level ( neg. 5ft. from surface ).

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    Re: Chemical Adjuncts

    Brewer,

    It sounds like you do not test your water. If you do, can you post a set of current test results to look at? That'll eliminate some of the guesswork.

    Counting on pine needles to control your pH is hit and miss at best. 2-3 pucks will add virtually nothing helpful in the form of CYA. The shock process in Pool School is quite different from what you are describing.......placing 2 bags of Cal Hypo or dichlor in your pool does not shock it.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
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    Re: Chemical Adjuncts

    I do not continually or periodically add CYA. I check it occasionally (maybe once per month) to make sure it's holding around 80. I did not add any CYA all season long - zero CYA additions.

    To add to what Dave is saying, I will ask a question. WHY are you adding bags of shock mid-season? If you don't have a problem, there's no reason to do so.
    Built in 1957 44,000 gallon in-ground, Wet Edge Primera Stone in Sky Blue, Intelliflo VF Pump, 600 lb. Pentair Triton II TR-100 Sand Filter, CircuPool RG 60 Plus SWG, TF-100 test kit
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    Re: Chemical Adjuncts

    I guess my original (post) question should have emphasized that I am preparing for a renovation of my pool system. As I noted in other sub-forums, I have a skimmer-line leak that will need to be fixed, a MD clog and a major re-do of my pumping station.
    These upgrades will require the pool to be drained, so after all fixes are complete, I will be re-filling and water balancing basicly from "ground zero". When this happens, I will studiously read the pertenant Pool School items & posts related to pool chemicals. I will upgrade my "basic" Taylor K-1004 troubleshooter kit to an advanced one and factor in the annual water quality report my water company sends me.
    Since convenience is my most important objective, relative to chemical additions, and RobbieH seems to be happy with his SWG, I will probably add a SWG to my pumping station as part of the re-do.
    15K gallon in-ground gunite/plaster pool(58 year-old Anthony Bros.), 15'x30', depth 3-1/2'->8' . Hayward Ecostar pump. Hayward DE-3600 filter with Variflow 710XR50 1-1/2" valve. Polaris 380 cleaner & "the pool cleaner (suction)". Main-drain suction disconnected. New skimmer suction plumbing 2" PVC. Single return line 1" copper. Cleaner line 1-1/2" copper, re-plumbed in pump-house (PVC) for either suction or pressure. Hayward 3/4HP PB4 booster pump. Leslie's 260 BTU Coppertherm heater. All new suction interconnect plumbing 2". Return plumbing, filter-to-booster, 1-1/2". Single return to pool 1". All equipment located 2-1/2ft. above pool bottom level ( neg. 5ft. from surface ).

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