Need advice please..

[imrodee]

The other day:
Numbers..
FC 12.5
TC 12.5
PH 7.5 (after adding 20 oz MA due to previous high reading)
TA 80
CH 450 I don't know why it's so high..? There are no tablets or additives
CYA Didn't do this today (no sunshine) But it's normally 50-60

Computer Salt level - 3600
Salt strip is yellow up to one notch below the 6 mark - which IF I am reading this correctly it is 2530. That's quite a spread.

We've had 2 days of rain,, a live rat, a live frog, and there are 3 water features that run all day long (12 hours) Wind kicked in alot of dirt - but I cleaned that out.

Any advice or thoughts? Thanks in advance!

TODAY
FC 16.5
PH 8.2
TA 80
CH 450
CYA 50
SALT 3350 PER COMPUTER


Water is clear. :?:

The PC says to add MA and stabilizer... Advice on that? I've never added stabilizer before. Thanks so much!!

Helen

 

[bpricedo]

I'm guessing you didnt shock? Looks like you need to turn your SWCG down. What is it set on now?

It and the water features are going to drive your pH up quick.

 

[dmanb2b]

Since this is a saltwater pool, you will want your CYA at around 70ppm, so yes you can adjust Up, slowly. Your FC is too high and as a result is giving you a false high PH reading. With TA at 80, it is still possible your PH is rising, but is dificult to tell until your FC falls below 10ppm. Turn down your SWG and let FC drift down to around 5ppm or so.

 

[imrodee]

I'm guessing you didnt shock? Looks like you need to turn your SWCG down. What is it set on now?

It and the water features are going to drive your pH up quick.

bp, no I didn't shock, the pool runs 12 hours a day on low speed. The FC has crept up all on it's own.

Ok, that's what I thought on the pH.

What are your thoughts on the CH? Kind of on the high side huh?

TU!

 

[imrodee]

Since this is a saltwater pool, you will want your CYA at around 70ppm, so yes you can adjust Up, slowly. Your FC is too high and as a result is giving you a false high PH reading. With TA at 80, it is still possible your PH is rising, but is dificult to tell until your FC falls below 10ppm. Turn down your SWG and let FC drift down to around 5ppm or so.

I'll dial down the SWGC first thing tomorrow morning

If the pH is a false reading, I am guessing that I shouldn't add the MA.. and maybe just 1/2 of the stabilizer for now?

Thanks so much!
Helen

 

[bpricedo]

Yea the CH is high but your CSI looks good in the pool calculator as long as you keep your pH in range (7.5-7.8). I don't know how you can bring this down short of replacing water.

 

[bpricedo]

Obviously low CYA isn't hurting you too bad, ha!, since your FC is so high. Increasing CYA may not matter much over the winter but if you do want to increase it, then you are correct, do it easy and give it a week or two before adding more.

 

[ping]

The only thing I would do for now is turn off the SWG until the FC drops to 5 and then turn it back on and adjust it down. You could do this a few ways, turn the % output down, reduce the pump run time, or reduce both the % and pump run time. I've already had to decrease my % by 30%, ran it at 80% during the summer, but my water temp with the solar is still 88. The sun isn't beating down on the pool as much now that we are in the fall season.

I wouldn't adjust the CYA until spring time, you have enough in there for the winter sun. Adjust your pH as needed when the FC drops below 10.

 

[imrodee]

Day 1 - Well, I thought I turned the SWCG % down thru the easytough system.. but I don't think I was successful in that. I changed the pump run time from 10 hrs a day to 5. The FC remained the same the next morning.
Day 2 - So yesterday I changed the level directly on the cell panel, and I see today there is only 1 green light on, and the FC is 15. (Slight drop from 16.5.)
Day 3 - I am running the pump in Service Mode right now so the SWCG doesn't come on. That way I don't have to unplug anything or mess up the computer. I also backwashed (maintenance) and am topping the pool off as we speak.

The computer reading showed 3350 as a reading, the FC was 15. I would have thought the computer reading would show high chlorine levels too..? After the pool is filled and circulated a bit, I'll run the numbers again along with the aqua stick test.

Thanks again for your thoughts - if I should do something different, please let me know..

 

[imrodee]

FC - 12 Down from 15
PH - 7.8 Down from 8.2+ (had rain, backwashed and refilled pool)
TA - 80
CH - 390 Down from 450
CYA - 50

SALT - COMPUTER - 3350
SALT AQUA STRIPS - 2530 ??????? Shouldn't these be showing "high" chlorine if the FC is at shock level?

Water is crystal clear - water temp 69

I was able to turn off the SWCG yesterday.. FC came down a bit.

 

[ping]

The 3350 reading on the SWG is the level of salt in the pool that the SWG is reading. It has nothing to do with the chlorine level in the pool. Also, the salt strips do not measure chlorine, they just measure the salt level in the pool. My latest batch of salt strips are measuring like yours, -800 from the SWG reading. There is not a problem with this, and you should go by the reading on the SWG as long as it is making chorine.

The FC level should drop everyday and when it gets to 5 turn the SWG back on at a low setting and check the FC everyday to see if it rises or lowers and adjust the SWG as necessary.

 

[phipsi1237]

I assigned and activated the "high speed" circuit. I found out that if you turn on the high speed circuit when "pool mode" isn't activated, the salt cell doesn't turn on. So, I lowered the RPM setting of the high speed circuit to 900 to filter while letting the chlorine creep down.

 

[imrodee]

The 3350 reading on the SWG is the level of salt in the pool that the SWG is reading. It has nothing to do with the chlorine level in the pool. Also, the salt strips do not measure chlorine, they just measure the salt level in the pool. My latest batch of salt strips are measuring like yours, -800 from the SWG reading. There is not a problem with this, and you should go by the reading on the SWG as long as it is making chorine.

The FC level should drop everyday and when it gets to 5 turn the SWG back on at a low setting and check the FC everyday to see if it rises or lowers and adjust the SWG as necessary.

Boy, I learn something everyday... or night. Thanks!

I had to run errands today, but will get a reading tomorrow am. Thanks!

helen

 

[imrodee]

I assigned and activated the "high speed" circuit. I found out that if you turn on the high speed circuit when "pool mode" isn't activated, the salt cell doesn't turn on. So, I lowered the RPM setting of the high speed circuit to 900 to filter while letting the chlorine creep down.

That's a bit over my head.. I'm still working thru the operating manual. But I will check into that for sure! I ran the pump in service mode to keep the SWG off, until I was able to reduce the %.
Thanks!!
helen

 

[imrodee]

The 3350 reading on the SWG is the level of salt in the pool that the SWG is reading. It has nothing to do with the chlorine level in the pool. Also, the salt strips do not measure chlorine, they just measure the salt level in the pool. My latest batch of salt strips are measuring like yours, -800 from the SWG reading. There is not a problem with this, and you should go by the reading on the SWG as long as it is making chorine.

The FC level should drop everyday and when it gets to 5 turn the SWG back on at a low setting and check the FC everyday to see if it rises or lowers and adjust the SWG as necessary.

5.5 FC today.. I'll see what it is tonite and follow your recommendations. Thanks!!!

 

[imrodee]

Yesterday I turned the pump on, but didn't turn the easy touch salt on - (forgot) It's on now.. whew!

10/20/12

FC 3.5
CC 0.5
TC 4
PH 7.8
TA 30
CH 400
CYA 50

COMPUTER - 3300
AQUA STRIP 2530

CLEAR/WATER 64 DEGREES

Do I need to add stabilizer? HELP!!

 

[ping]

There is no rush to add more CYA. You will not be losing much FC to the sun these days and I would wait until spring to add more. Just monitor it monthly and if it drops to 30 then I would add some at that time. When it is time to swim next year bump it up to 70-80 range.

My CYA is down to 60 and I will not be adding anymore until spring. My water temp is still at 88, solar, but I am not losing much FC these days. I went from 8 hours of run time and my output was set at 80% until October 1st. I just started to use my cover last week and I now have my settings at 40% with 6 hours of run time.

 

[ping]

Just looked at your other numbers. The TA needs to be increased to around 60 and your pH will need to be lowered some. Use baking soda to raise the TA and then use muriatic acid to lower the pH. Both chemicals will work against each other, but the baking soda will work more on the TA and the acid will work more on the pH.

 

[imrodee]

Just looked at your other numbers. The TA needs to be increased to around 60 and your pH will need to be lowered some. Use baking soda to raise the TA and then use muriatic acid to lower the pH. Both chemicals will work against each other, but the baking soda will work more on the TA and the acid will work more on the pH.

You're awesome! I'm on it. Thanks!!!!!

 

[imrodee]

Just to be clear.. I get the TA adjusted first, then do the acid..? TU~
helen