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Thread: Aquarite PCB revisions

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    Aquarite PCB revisions

    I currently have a 1.4 running a T-15. Recently, it burned the trace going from the lower relay to the cell connector. I was able to dremel out some of the PCB and solder a jumper in place of the trace, which is working for now. I started ordered another relay and started looking for a replacement PCB. I found one one, but it is a 1.32 board. What are the differences in the boards and can I use the 1.32 in place of the 1.4.
    Kidney pool with liner, hayward(dead) 1hp super pump, hayward sand filter, goldline SWG, polaris cleaner. No idea on volume.

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    y_not's Avatar
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    Re: Aquarite PCB revisions

    Quote Originally Posted by lonesouth
    I currently have a 1.4 running a T-15. Recently, it burned the trace going from the lower relay to the cell connector. I was able to dremel out some of the PCB and solder a jumper in place of the trace, which is working for now. I started ordered another relay and started looking for a replacement PCB. I found one one, but it is a 1.32 board. What are the differences in the boards and can I use the 1.32 in place of the 1.4.
    As I understand it, all the board revisions are simply for the different cells they have released over time. Each new cell requires different software and a different board. Maybe they change the board, maybe they just put new firmware on the ROM/EEPROM chip and call it a day.

    As of v1.5 & newer, they now have a software option that you change to tell it which cell you have attached to the unit.
    Prior to that, they're just jumpers on the board to select the proper cell. They're behind the display module, there are 2 of them. T-5/T-15 selectors /w silk screening on the PCB indicating on/off position. The solid white PCB silkscreen bar indicates jumper on, which is for the T-15 cell, factory default.
    I'm not sure what that top one does, I'm not an installer, just a nerd. I'd assume master/slave to be self explanatory in that if it's to be used in an automation environment with multiple cells, then you'd set it for the primary (master) controller, or the secondary (slave) unit. But beyond that I don't know for certain.

    On the ones that have a software option to select the cell, v1.5 and above IIRC. You set it as follows.
    Press the diagnostics button until you get to the cell setting.
    Once you see that on the screen, you can cycle through the 4 different cell types by sliding the switch up to Superchlorinate and then back down to Auto. You repeat the process until your cell type is displayed and then just leave the switch set to the auto position.

    Hopefully that helps.

    EDIT:
    If you're looking at that super cheap one on FleaBay that I see there, go for it!!
    It'll support your T-15 cell.
    PDF Config Guide & Compatibility for T-15 Cell
    Thanks for reading... - Tony
    Da' Pool: Intex 15'x42" 3284gal AGP EasySet (Inflatable Ring) - (Summer 2014: 27' round EW /w 6.5' deep end @ 22,500gal)
    Pump & Cart Mod: 1000gph Cart. 5ft² - 2 nylons, 24/7 OP. Traps bugs/bits, lasts longer/cleans easier = Happier Pool Owner!!
    The Bible for a "Trouble Free Pool" life = PoolSchool, the BBB method a TF100 test kit(Recommend Kits Compared). - Cleaning a Sand Filter
    Water looks like GLASS, if yours doesn't...SLAM IT! Feels nice and never been happier!!! :D

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