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Thread: a little advice?

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    a little advice?

    I'm unsure about my readings but i want to clear up the pool before i close it or close to it

    ph around or above 8
    ta 70
    ch about 90 (first time i ever test for it)
    cya am unsure about pool store said around 50 i assume that would be close to what i would expect it since i start around 25 and ran out of chlorine so I added 18 lbs of tri chlore to the feeder

    since then I've had algae start about 2 weeks after tabs ran out and have partially drained and refilled

    i only have one cya test left so I didn't want to waste it just yet

    I have 15 lbs of Cal hypo and 6 gallons of bleach and quite a few lbs of dry acid

    Ive sucked up most of the algae and recharged the filter twice so so just the light green water left
    21X41, 30,000, ig, vinyl,48sf de, 1hp hayward super pump, 2" piping, 2 skimmers, 1 main inlet, 2 return, built in 1988, no enclosure, lots of trees around, direct sun. Thanks in advance to all who have answered my questions.

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    y_not's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Redmond, OR

    Re: a little advice?

    Hi shadez,

    It sounds like you let the CYA get high and the FC levels low, just enough that algae attacked.
    You're going to need to start the shock process, but you have to know your CYA amount. You're going to have to use up that last bit of reagent.

    18lbs (288oz) trichlor in your size pool is 40ppm CYA + 25ppm you said you started with = 65ppm CYA, not the 50ppm the pool store shows. Goes to show you how bad their test is, then again our test is +/- 15ppm CYA.
    But ours is repeatable, the pool store will give you a different number every time you come in.

    It looks like you have been around the forum for a while, so I trust you have a FAS-DPD FC/CC test, yeah?
    If so, plug your numbers into pool calc & get to shocking.
    Link is in my sig on how to shock, read all the sub links in that article too.

    I wouldn't worry about your TA or CH, the latter doesn't even matter in a vinyl pool. The former only matters to maintain your CSI Langlier index, or if you have a pH problem or SWG.
    70ppm TA is AWESOME!! right in range to keep pH super happy and not rise up like a balloon over time.
    I'd stick with bleach personally, but if push comes to shove, seeing as you have so little CH you can surely use your cal-hypo to raise FC, use pool calc. You have the leeway room there. But it'll definitely make your water cloudy, however it should clear up after a while.

    You sound pretty unsure on your pH. You need to bring it down in order to begin shocking.
    Use this TABLE to help you get the numbers more on than you are, then plug your TA into the now & target in PS, then put your current pH into NOW and 7.2pH into target and select dry acid. Add what it says, in front of a return jet with the pump running. Wait 30min, test pH again to verify, then start the shock process.
    Note, use a white page on your computer monitor/LCD as your light source behind the pH comparator block. That is if you don't have daylight, otherwise use a white background with your back to the sun and the sun shining through the color comparator block.

    EDIT: Only test pH at or below 10ppm FC, otherwise the test is all wrong!
    CRITICAL: CYA test, make sure the sample is at or above 70deg F. If not, warm it up to temp indoors.
    Thanks for reading... - Tony
    Da' Pool: Intex 15'x42" 3284gal AGP EasySet (Inflatable Ring) - (Summer 2014: 27' round EW /w 6.5' deep end @ 22,500gal)
    Pump & Cart Mod: 1000gph Cart. 5ft² - 2 nylons, 24/7 OP. Traps bugs/bits, lasts longer/cleans easier = Happier Pool Owner!!
    The Bible for a "Trouble Free Pool" life = PoolSchool, the BBB method a TF100 test kit(Recommend Kits Compared). - Cleaning a Sand Filter
    Water looks like GLASS, if yours doesn't...SLAM IT! Feels nice and never been happier!!! :D

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