I'm thinking maybe next step is the cord? FYI -- all reading are good, amps, salt, etc.
Replaced Autopilot Cell SC36 but still no chlorine
- Thread starter JMilligan
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!!!
If you have Amp reading on the controller, then it is likely generating. You may not be showing any FC because there is something in the water consuming the FC faster than it is produced.
Post up a full set of test results: pool-school/read_before_you_post
If you have Amp reading on the controller, then it is likely generating. You may not be showing any FC because there is something in the water consuming the FC faster than it is produced.
Post up a full set of test results: pool-school/read_before_you_post
Phosphates are meaningless .... just a way for the pool store to make money. If the algae can not live due to maintaining adequate levels of chlorine, it does not matter how much food (phosphates) are present.
Post up all of your test results if you would like us to try to help you figure out what is going on.
Post up all of your test results if you would like us to try to help you figure out what is going on.
Phosphates won't cause issues. That's mostly pool store folklore. (hey, it rhymes!).
Do you see bubbles from the returns?
FWIW, I was going to say the same thing Jason did.
Do you see bubbles from the returns?
FWIW, I was going to say the same thing Jason did.
Thanks for help. Here are my pool stats:
Per Cubby Unit:
Salt 3200
Temp 80 degrees F
Amp 17v, 4.9A
Amp Hrs 018009
Purifier - recently on 100%
Per Pool Store water test yesterday:
Chlorine 0.0 ppm
pH 7.6
Tot Alkalinity 90 ppm
Calcium Hardnesss 200 ppm
Stabilizer 60 ppm
Total Dissolved Solids 4700 ppm
Salt 3200 ppm
Again my story is a 12,500 salt pool about 3 years old. Chlorine usually 2-3.0 ppm running purifier at about 50% in summer. Couple weeks ago chlorine just dropped quickly to zero. Replaced cell, added powder chorline to get to 3.0 ppm, then ran new cell at fairly high rate - 70%. But after a week chorline back to zero. (Did have high phosphates (500) which is lowered, but still zero chorline even with purifier at 100%.)
So I'm thinking next step is cord replacement. Question -- picture of replacement cord shows two "male" pins on end that plugs into Cubby, but my existing card appears to use a plastic snap in housing (can't see the two pins).
Ideas?
Per Cubby Unit:
Salt 3200
Temp 80 degrees F
Amp 17v, 4.9A
Amp Hrs 018009
Purifier - recently on 100%
Per Pool Store water test yesterday:
Chlorine 0.0 ppm
pH 7.6
Tot Alkalinity 90 ppm
Calcium Hardnesss 200 ppm
Stabilizer 60 ppm
Total Dissolved Solids 4700 ppm
Salt 3200 ppm
Again my story is a 12,500 salt pool about 3 years old. Chlorine usually 2-3.0 ppm running purifier at about 50% in summer. Couple weeks ago chlorine just dropped quickly to zero. Replaced cell, added powder chorline to get to 3.0 ppm, then ran new cell at fairly high rate - 70%. But after a week chorline back to zero. (Did have high phosphates (500) which is lowered, but still zero chorline even with purifier at 100%.)
So I'm thinking next step is cord replacement. Question -- picture of replacement cord shows two "male" pins on end that plugs into Cubby, but my existing card appears to use a plastic snap in housing (can't see the two pins).
Ideas?
Phospates of 500 is low. I've seen numbers WAY above that here, with no issues at all. I don't even know what mine are! 
Your SWG won't bring your FC from 0 to 3. You have to use bleach to get your water to 3, then let the SWG maintain. I suggest targeting an FC of 4, not 3. 3 leaves very little room for fluctuation without going below your necessary FC level.
You didn't answer whether you see bubbles coming out your returns or not. Also, I'd be curious to know if you can pass the OCLT (with SWG OFF) or not. If you have a nascent algae issue, you'll never maintain FC.
Your SWG won't bring your FC from 0 to 3. You have to use bleach to get your water to 3, then let the SWG maintain. I suggest targeting an FC of 4, not 3. 3 leaves very little room for fluctuation without going below your necessary FC level.
You didn't answer whether you see bubbles coming out your returns or not. Also, I'd be curious to know if you can pass the OCLT (with SWG OFF) or not. If you have a nascent algae issue, you'll never maintain FC.
I would recommend some reading in Pool School to give you a better understanding where we are coming from.
With a CYA of 60ppm, the absolute minimum you should have let the FC get is 3ppm ... likely better to try to maintain 4-5ppm. Once the FC is below 3ppm, algae will start to grow and consume the FC more quickly resulting in more algae, etc .... that was likely the rapid drop you saw.
You should turn the SWG off and perform the Shocking Your Pool process with bleach. Once you pass the 3 tests to stop the process, then fire the SWG back up and see if it maintains the FC level.
BTW, performing the shock process without your own good test kit is impossible (and note that pool store testing is notoriously inaccurate and non-repeatable). One of the best investments you can make would be to order one of the recommended test kits (see my signature for a link with a comparison chart).
With a CYA of 60ppm, the absolute minimum you should have let the FC get is 3ppm ... likely better to try to maintain 4-5ppm. Once the FC is below 3ppm, algae will start to grow and consume the FC more quickly resulting in more algae, etc .... that was likely the rapid drop you saw.
You should turn the SWG off and perform the Shocking Your Pool process with bleach. Once you pass the 3 tests to stop the process, then fire the SWG back up and see if it maintains the FC level.
BTW, performing the shock process without your own good test kit is impossible (and note that pool store testing is notoriously inaccurate and non-repeatable). One of the best investments you can make would be to order one of the recommended test kits (see my signature for a link with a comparison chart).
Thanks, I read lots in Pool School and will run thru all steps. Appreciate the help. One last question -- if I do have to replace the cord, is it difficult? Again I'll pursue all chemistry issues 1st.
And don't forget, if you don't have a transparent cell, bubbles from the return are usually a good indication the cell is working. Turning it off should net you a loss of the bubbles from the returns. My cell is clear blue, so I can see the bubbles right on the plates. If yours is the same, you can look right there.
Although I do not think bubbles entering the pool are required for FC production.
If you see bubbles, then either A: your SWG is producing FC or B: you have an air leak or C: both
If you do not see bubbles, I am not sure you can draw any conclusion.
I never saw bubbles at my last house with the Hayward SWG ... unless the solar was being purged. Although my pool was a good distance from my equipment. I think to see bubbles from the SWG, the cell needs to be pretty close to the pool, and even then it may not happen.
If you see bubbles, then either A: your SWG is producing FC or B: you have an air leak or C: both
If you do not see bubbles, I am not sure you can draw any conclusion.
I never saw bubbles at my last house with the Hayward SWG ... unless the solar was being purged. Although my pool was a good distance from my equipment. I think to see bubbles from the SWG, the cell needs to be pretty close to the pool, and even then it may not happen.
Mine is approximately 70' from the pool. I see a very clear stream of bubbles from my returns when the cell is on, they go away when I turn the cell off. That's why I mentioned turning the cell on and off to ensure they are not from a leak. It might be because my cell is for a 60,000 gallon pool and is set to 80%.
I created a video of what my cell looks like when it's running. That milky look (the bubbles) go away when it's off.
I'm just trying to give some troubleshooting options.
Click the image for the Photobucket video.
It might be because my cell is for a 60,000 gallon pool and is set to 80%. I created a video of what my cell looks like when it's running. That milky look (the bubbles) go away when it's off.
I'm just trying to give some troubleshooting options.
Click the image for the Photobucket video.
The cell cord will affect the cell amps and volts. In this case, it's not really showing an issue with the cord. The Cell Cord for the Cubby is Part Number 952. This will have the connector on the end, rather than the two banana plugs.
I'd suggest the overnight chlorine loss test as well.
Have you added anything else other than chlorine or pH adjusters? Any algae treatments?
I'd suggest the overnight chlorine loss test as well.
Have you added anything else other than chlorine or pH adjusters? Any algae treatments?
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