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Thread: Need help with my bromine spa

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    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Indiantown, FL
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    Need help with my bromine spa

    I have read the sticky that waterbear posted about maintaining a bromine spa but I still have a few questions. We have recently switched over our 300 gallon spa from the dreaded Baqua Spa to bromine per the advice of our spa repairman. He suggested that we crush one tab into the new water and put two tabs into a floater and to add one tablespoon of lemon juice to lower the PH and one tablespoon of baking soda to raise the PH and he also said that alkaline is green do not adjust. My question is that our spa water has a green tint to it and is this correct? I have been shocking the spa for the last two week using ultra bleach per waterbears sticky.

    Thanks,
    Eddie
    Intex 16' X 32' X 52" 14,364 galllon AGP, 16" sand filter & SWG, Pool Rover & Sunrise Journey SPA 320 gallons, TechniChlor 110 SWG

  2. Back To Top    #2
    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Do you have a set of water test numbers?

    What kind of green? Murky green or clear transparent green? Light or dark?
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  3. Back To Top    #3

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    Hi Jason,

    I would have to say it was a transparent green.

    My numbers before shocking were:

    bromine 0 with 3 full tabs in the floater
    PH 7.9
    TA 195
    Intex 16' X 32' X 52" 14,364 galllon AGP, 16" sand filter & SWG, Pool Rover & Sunrise Journey SPA 320 gallons, TechniChlor 110 SWG

  4. Back To Top    #4
    Guest
    The pH of the water does not have an effect on it's color.
    Lemon juice (citric acid) is not going to be effective at lowering pH. Some people have also suggested vinegar for this but it's not effective either. The reason why is that they are 'weak' acids chemically.
    To adjust ph you need a chemically 'strong' acid such as muriatic or sulfuric (which is what forms when dry acid is dissolved in water).
    Baking soda is not that effective at raising ph but is effective at raising TA. To raise your pH you can aerate the water if the TA does not need to be raised, use soda ash (washing soda) if you need to raise BOTH pH and TA, or use borax if you want to raise the ph quickly with minimal effect on TA.
    His advice to crush up a few tablets and dissolve them in the water was good. This is to create your 'bromide bank' in the water but just adding 1/2 oz of sodium bromine per 100 gallons is a much more effective and cost efficient way to do this. Sodium bromide is available for this purpose from such companies as HTH and Robarb or you can use a sodium bromide mustard algae product such as Jacks yellow stuff or Proteam's Mustard and Black Magic. This are also just sodium bromide.

    Green water is never a good sign. It could indicate algae or metals in your water.
    Your TA is WAY too high at 195 ppm, for bromine I would suggest around 100 ppm if you are shocking with MPS and a bit lower if you are shocking with bleach. You will find that your pH becomes much more stable.

  5. Back To Top    #5
    JasonLion's Avatar
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    See this thread for a technical discussion of strong vs. weak acids inspired by this thread.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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