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Thread: New pool help please

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    st louis, MO
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    New pool help please

    hello

    I have been reading this forum and found good info but i'm to the point that i need help

    its a 10,000 indoor pool, pool only gets light from skylights (needs heated in the summer still)

    I moved in and the pool was fine, I checked the level weekly and put one 3inch clorine tab in the pool and all was well.

    about 1.5 months after we moved We had a party, lots of kids, I increased the Clorin from 3 to 6 on the colrinator before the party. the pool was a little cloudy for about 2 days and cleared up fine

    we have been using the pool and I when to take the cover off to use it again (had been about a week) and it was cloudy.

    From reading here i bought a Taylor kit

    FC = 2.5
    CC = 2.5
    CH = 400
    TA = 200
    PH = 7.7 (also used my digital meter for this)
    CYA = ??? we could not get a reading the tube was perfectly clear all the way through? tried the test 2 times
    temp = 88

    i used http://www.poolcalculator.com/ and got 0.73 witch is what i got with the test kit.

    I Think it needs shocked, but i don't want to waste chemicals until i know about the CYA

    also the TA seems really high


    we use well water to fill the pool witch lucky comes out 7.2 - 7.5 ph LOL but it is hard water and Iron heavy.

    i would not mind the BBB but i just bought clorine tabs and pool-perfect off amazon and shock.... witch i can't return.
    INDOOR POOL
    10,000 gallon Fiberglass 12x28
    Sand filter
    Hayward 50K HeatPump
    BBB since JAN-2013

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    Re: New pool help please

    It looks like CC is much too high. You will need to leave the cover off to let that CC escape, and you need to shock the pool. Right to double check the CYA. I am not sure of chlorine needs when CYA is so low.

    CYA could be zero but I would expect that one 7 oz trichlor tablet per week would give you 3 ppm per week of CYA and that would build up over time. Assuming that is trichlor. Can you check the label for ingredients? It looks like you are normally adding 12 ppm of CYA a month, then there ought to be some natural loss of CYA but not much. Still you ought to have a slow build up. How long since this pool was filled? If it has only been a few months, and if you just bought the house you may not know if it happened just before you got it, 2 months would give you a CYA level near 20 which is the limit of the test. Longer than that ought to have the level higher.
    23,000 gallon in ground pool with rock waterfall and spillover spa, Aqualink control system, Polaris 380 cleaner, Purex Triton Clean&Clear Plus cartridge filter. Located in The Woodlands, Texas.

    Pool owner since Nov 2008, Trouble Free since April 2009. Happy to help when I can.

  3. Back To Top    #3

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    Re: New pool help please

    Controlling CC's in an indoor pool is more difficult than outdoor pools, anonaperson's suggestion to leave the cover off to let the CC drop is good advice, you need to start the shock process to reduce Combined Chlorine to a happier level, ideally 0.5ppm or less Tri-Chlor tablets will not be of assistance in doing this as they dissolve too slowly, if your CYA level is truly so low, you can continue to use the Tri-Chlor pucks for regular chlorination, but need bleach/sodium hypochlorite to start the shock process, Do not use Calcium Hypochlorite or Di-Chlor for shocking either as both these products will add products that are undesirable.

    It will take a while for Tri Tabs CYA donation to show up in a pool that has zero CYA so I would put best guesstimate of CYA around 10-20ppm, which you should factor into your shocking level, you don't want very much CYA in an indoor pool, but it will help hold Free Chlorine residuals when around to 30ppm nicely.

    With that in mind, you now need to start the shock process as detailed here:
    pool-school/shocking_your_pool
    I would recommend a shock level of 12ppm, which should cover the range of possible CYA levels you may have.
    Your done shocking when your CC's are >0.5ppm, your water is clear and you lose less than 1ppm Free Chlorine overnight.

    I would also recommend lowering pH before you start shocking to 7.2, as your pH rises you can keep adding acid to bring it down again, which will inturn lower your TA level, aerating your water as described here will speed up this process for you.
    pool-school/lowering%20total%20alkalinity

    With your high CH levels it is also important that you keep your pH slightly lower than normal to prevent scale forming, so once you have TA under control I would recommend maintaining pH in the 7.2-7.5 range, with 7.3-7.4 likely optimal.

    Regards
    Stuart

    EDIT: are you sure CC is not Total Chlorine? Ie with the test for FC DPD1 you would have 2.5ppm, then the DPD3 test would return either 5ppm to give 2.5ppm CC or 2.5 to return 0.0CC
    Stuart Murray
    Scotland UK
    UK NPPOC

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    Re: New pool help please

    thanks for the help,

    the cover is off the pool right now...... witch is why i need this solved cover off = heater runs lol

    i think the FC = 2.5 and the CC = 2.5 so TC = 5

    Ill have to retest again tonight to see where its at.

    the CYA could be low because when i back flush i take the pool down to the skimmer and then then top off the pool (usually about 1 time a month unless it gets heavy usage) so i do a mini water change.

    I order chlorine free shock as my wife is sensitive to chlorine, I hope that wasn't a mistake.
    INDOOR POOL
    10,000 gallon Fiberglass 12x28
    Sand filter
    Hayward 50K HeatPump
    BBB since JAN-2013

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    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: New pool help please

    Her perceived sensitivity to chlorine most likely isn't a problem. Her sensitivity to CC's probably are, but with an indoor pool using chlorine free shock isn't a bad thing. It will knock the CC's down and that's what you need if the CC test number is correct.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

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    Re: New pool help please

    Quote Originally Posted by Bama Rambler
    Her perceived sensitivity to chlorine most likely isn't a problem. Her sensitivity to CC's probably are, but with an indoor pool using chlorine free shock isn't a bad thing. It will knock the CC's down and that's what you need if the CC test number is correct.
    okay thanks I will test again once the stuff gets here...... and post before i do anything lol

    i will need to buy some PH down, can i use the BBB month for this witch i think was borax right?
    INDOOR POOL
    10,000 gallon Fiberglass 12x28
    Sand filter
    Hayward 50K HeatPump
    BBB since JAN-2013

  7. Back To Top    #7
    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: New pool help please

    Borax is pH up or plus. Muriatic acid lowers the pH. Don't confuse the two of them.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

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    Re: New pool help please

    Quote Originally Posted by Bama Rambler
    Borax is pH up or plus. Muriatic acid lowers the pH. Don't confuse the two of them.
    yes whoops was just re-reading the pool school and BBB

    I might stop and get some PH down tonight
    INDOOR POOL
    10,000 gallon Fiberglass 12x28
    Sand filter
    Hayward 50K HeatPump
    BBB since JAN-2013

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    phipsi1237's Avatar
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    Re: New pool help please

    Just curious if CYA is as important to an indoor pool?
    14.5K gal Plaster IGP, Intelliflo VS, EasyTouch 8, SWG, IntellipH, Clear and Clean 420 Cartridge Filter, Attached Spa, H400IDL2 NG Heater

  10. Back To Top    #10

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    Re: New pool help please

    Quote Originally Posted by phipsi1237
    Just curious if CYA is as important to an indoor pool?
    CYA stops the breakdown of FC caused by direct sunlight, so in indoor pools CYA is not really needed. I have found in my experience however that it does give substantial stabilization to FC despite no direct sunlight, reducing Hypochlorite use.
    Stuart Murray
    Scotland UK
    UK NPPOC

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