This topic really could be helpful and there are good questions that are so vaguely explained when watching all the so called videos with online experts who are closing pools and trying to show the world their gift of know how. Fact is, blowing lines clear in regions where cold climate are present is critical. Especially for a concrete ingound pool. The information the OP was looking for was not what happens to the antifreeze after you put it in and open the pool come next season. It's environmentally safe and not the same as what we put in our automobiles.
I thought the OP wanted to know how you get the antifreeze into the skimmer without water backing up into the line again. This is a very good question that I had issues with and never quite could grasp. Thing is, all videos are usually based on the plumbing infrastructure in the pool being worked on. And although similar, not all are the same.
My inground has 2 skimmers, 2 drains and 2 discharges. They are configured like this: The Deep end has a skimmer and drain (inlets) and 1 return and are controlled by 1 valve at the pad. The shallow end has the same identical configuration. I was able to blow from the pad with the inlet valve open. I blew in reverse and the skimmers were both clearing out. I plugged one of the skimmers to focus on the other and when it was all air or very little mist, I plugged it. Now, My issue is this, I also have the drain connected to that same line somewhere underground. It's not connected to the skimmer with a separate valve or anything. It's pretty difficult for me to figure out how to fully clean the line out because as I am blowing the skimmer, water is actually coming in from the drain slowly just from gravity. I know that I must get this line to air-lock. So my question is how? Do I plug the skimmer and try to blow in reverse through the inlet line at the pad? Doing this I will eventually see bubbles come out of the drain and at the moment, I can close the inlet valve and it will air-lock the line. BUT..... what about the skimmer? Did the water I was blowing back out throiugh the drain also pull the water that was leading to the skimmer? Like I said, the skimmer and drain are connected at some point underground but just not at the skimmer like some pools. I wish I had separate valves for each but this pool was not designed like that. My drain and skimmer must have fitting somewhere but I am not gonna dig for it. My logic and reason are telling me I may have to try blowing with a strong compressor that could clear both the skimmer and also push water back out the drain in one step and then I could plug the skimmer and then close the valve at the pad, which would air lock all of the pipe leading to both. But, now I am at the same question as the OP again. How would I or rather, how SHOULD I put anti-freeze in the skimmer and/or line(s)?? At this point it might be reasonable to assume I have cleared the lines more than enough and anti-freeze wouldn't matter. But, if it was to be added, am I risking water backfilling into these lines ?
So, if anyone can understand all that I am saying here, maybe you can picture what I am dealing with. And I am wondering if anyone could give good clear instruction to actually manage a blow out of the line based on my above mentioned plumbing setup. The deep end and shallow end have identical plumbing setups. A drain, a skimmer for inlets and a discharge. At the pad, are 2 valves. 1 for the deep end and the other for the shallow. The discharge is a single line but I have returns in the pool. I have a valve at the pad to control the return water pressure. I've managed to figure out that I can blow air with a shop vac from the pad through the return line and I get the air coming out of the returns at the pool. I see air coming out bothe returns for a while and then I plug one and as the second continues to blow bubbles, I then put the plug in that one and then I close the return valve at the pad. This air-locks the returns and I am pretty sure it is good to go. Now, I should be able to do the same with the inlets but blowing the opposite direction. I can do this step by choosing the deep end first and simultaneously blow backwards from the pad iuntil I see bubbles coming from the drain. By the time bubbles come out at the drain, all water is out of the skimmer and I need a second person to actually plug the skimmer and then I close the valve at the pad that controls the deep end. This is now air-locked. I repeat that same thing for the shallow end.
OK, now what I explained should actually be good for my pool lines. But, I am only guessing that it was effective. Base on all the videos, all the reading and questions and answers, I think the goal is to air-lock those lines. And knowing the plumbing setup is really important. Mine is not the same as anyone else's that I have seen or read about. But, based on principle, I think I am figuring it out. But there is still a very big concern I have. Getting all this work done and also putting anti-freeze into my lines/skimmers/whatever. Am I supposed to put it through the skimmer? I even read that i should also pour antifreeze at the pad through the line leading to the drains. This also leads to the fitting where the drain and skimmer are joined so I suppose this is more assurance that I got more protection. I just would like to know if what I explained seems like I am actually doing something right and please by all means, if anyone has directions for me to make it easier or correct ssomething plus get me the procedure for the antifreeze too. I am just like the OP when it comes to getting the antifreeze in the skimmers. I am wondering how do we actually manage this without allowing water back into lines that were blown out. Although the process is easy to the very skilled and those who have done many different types of plumbing configurations, it is a very complicated thing to figure out for the first timer trying to do it on their own
Any comments welcome. Really. I'd love to get the most simpe and correct method winterizing my pool with lines blown and antifreeze poured in.
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The OPhas good questions that are so vaguely explained when watching all the so called onlione experts who are closing pools and trying to show the world their gift of know how. Fact is, blowing lines clear in regions where cold climate are present is critical. Especially for a concrete ingound pool. The information the OP was looking for was not what happens to the antifreeze after you put it in and open the pool come next season. It's environmentally safe and not the same as what we put in our automobiles.
I thought he wanted to know how you get the antifreeze into the skimmer after all lines have been blown and sealed tight and how to do it without water backing up into the line again when he opens the skimmer. This is a very good question and one that I also had issues with in the beginning of my learning how to close my pool. Thing is, all videos are usually based on the plumbing infrastructure in the pool being worked on. And although similar, not all are the same. But I'll compliment the OP for noticing the pump had the line coming in and the other going out and it is OK to work from that position. If your shopVac is strong enough, and you have proper sized fittings minimizing air leakage, you can really blow out the lines rather quickly. 6.5 is more than enough.
My inground has 2 skimmers, 2 drains and 2 discharges. They are configured like this: The Deep end has a skimmer and drain (inlets) and 1 return and are controlled by 1 valve at the pad. The shallow end has the same identical configuration. I was able to blow from the pad with the inlet valve open. I blew
