Not sure what I have - algae?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
R

rhharmon

0
Aug 30, 2012
34
GA
I've been struggling with what I thought was mustard algae since July. Changed pool companies and they were able to get my chlorine levels up, but I don't think it's helped. I took a picture this morning and I've attached. Can someone help me identify, then demolish this stuff. Or, can I shut down this year and start fresh next year. I've scrubbed and shocked until my arms are about to fall off. I've used every product known to the pool world to no avail. I don't have a test kit yet, but ordering it after this post.

Had to replace the pump (and the darn chord is to short), but using an extension chord (Did have a 2 HP and they said a 1-1/2 HP would work). Replaced the sand in the filter this year.

15 x 25 AG (9,200 Gallons I think)
sand filter
1-1/2-HP pump

Readings today from pool store (They use the method of testing that you suggest - no machine):
CYA 65
TC 4
FC 4
PH 7.8 (Added product to bring this down - 1.25 lbs. of low n slow)
Total ALK: 105
Adj. Total ALK: 85 (Added product to bring this up)
Total Hardness: 185
 

Attachments

  • 9-22-12.JPG
    9-22-12.JPG
    489.3 KB · Views: 342
I can't really tell anything from your picture.

If the pool store test results are to be taken as accurate, your FC is too low for the CYA level that you have. A CYA of 60 means that the absolute lowest your FC should be to avoid algae or other problems is 5. You need a test kit with a FAS-DPD chlorine test and then you need to check your overnight chlorine loss. The results will tell us what you need to do from that point. Decent test kits are availabel at www.tftestkits.net.
 
rhharmon said:
Is there something I need to be doing to the pool while I'm waiting on the test kit?
Click to expand...

No, other than keeping your CL levels up, there really isn't anything you can do to properly begin the shock process without your kit. Just keep CL in it, so it doesn't get any worse and you'll be no worse off than you have been.

Just keep adding bleach using pool calc based on readings from your basic kit, I assume you at least have an OTO basic kit, or strips?
Strips are horrid and almost like guessing, but a little better than completely guess. Just keep doing what you have been doing for the most part.

Then....
Once you get your kit, then you can run a set of full numbers, post them here and we will gladly get you pointed in the right direction.

I like the following links for helping to understand the ins-outs of the kit.
The 1st one can seem a little overwhelming at first, but it is a great tool to have handy for answering any testing questions you may have. Especially with the more complex ones, such as CYA, CH and so on. It covers so many different aspects of each test that it can really help you get the hang of each, gives you invaluable tips, etc..
Extended Test Kit Directions
Simplified One Page Testing Directions
Also, I love this for pH testing, white background, arms length, where you can still see the shadow of the test block while done outdoors in daylight is your friend.
2 Different pH Color Interpretations for getting SPOT ON RESULTS!!

Have fun!! Soon you'll be in pool heaven. :splash:
PS. If it were me and your weather allows, I would totally get your water cleared up before closing. Less to deal with in the spring, less headache if there's other mechanical problems at opening and you'll rest easy knowing all winter that the pool is just sitting there, happy, in limbo, awaiting spring.
Not to mention it's faster to clear up algae in colder water temperatures than warmer temperatures and cheaper too, less CL loss during the day. Unless of course the sun goes crazy like it's summer, well, then at least you still have lower water temps to clear it up in. ;)

Lastly, where are you located? This helps us in diagnosing your water, temps, climate, etc..
Please put this in your profile under location. Thx. :-D
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You are not in too bad of shape. TA is high, but can be ignored for now. Also realize the pH test is inaccurate when FC > 10ppm.

For a CYA of 60ppm, your shock FC level is 24ppm ... so try to keep it up there. Before you leave, make sure your FC is up to shock level and put a cover on the pool if you have one.
 
YEAAHHHH!! Glad to see you got your kit.
Did you have fun running the tests?

If it were my pool, being on vacation, I would bring it up to shock level and then add a bit on top of that.
24ppm FC is shock level for 60 CYA, 35ppm FC is yellow mustard shock level. Bring it up to 24ppm tonight, do a few PPM more, so you have time to catch if before it dips below 24ppm. From then on out, watch it like a hawk and see how much you're loosing at frequent intervals, this way you know how high to go for when you're going to be gone. It's not an exact science, just hedging your bet really, hoping you get enough CL in there before you go for it to not dip too far down below shock level. Right before you leave, I would bring it up to about 30, then put a cover on it. If you're really loosing a lot, bring it up to mustard shock level, but no higher.

If you have no cover, you're kinda out of luck. If that is the case, I would just wait to start the shock process till you return. Because if you drop too far below shock, for too long while you're gone, you can potentially loose all the ground you have gained and have to start all over, any algae you have killed up to that point will re-grow and then some and all your bleach you have dumped in will have been wasted. That's no fun. =\
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply