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Thread: $5 Flow Switch!!!

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    $5 Flow Switch!!!

    I have been lurking here for a while and have adopted the BBB method and it has worked quite well, and saved me a ton of money and headaches. I even turned my dad on to it. So, since you have all saved me a lot of money, I figured I'd return the favor.

    I was re-plumbing my filter the other day (it was sitting at a 15 deg angle from the previous owner) and after hooking things up, I was getting a "no flow" indicator on the control panel. I thought "hmm, this little switch can't cost too much to replace." Much to my surprise, this little piece cost upwards of $100! D*mn if I'm going to pay that much. Here's my "fix":

    What you need - A magnetic reed switch like this one http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3500/3...5d1131dcb2.jpg (I got mine for $4.80 at a local electronics supply store. Don't bother with RadioShack, they don't carry them) a soldering iron, silicone caulk, and about 30 minutes

    Steps:
    1 - Remove the switch and plug the hole.

    2 - Take the wires and cut them. Strip them to expose the ends.

    3 - Drill out the epoxy on the top side of the switch where the wires enter so it looks something like this.



    (I drilled the bottom out too..but looking back, I would have been better off only drilling from the top. If you leave the bottom intact, there is less of a chance of water getting to the wires. Oh well, live and learn.)

    4 - Solder the wires to either end of the reed switch so the wires are going one direction



    5 - Wrap and heat shrink the wires (I guess this is optional, but I'd recommend it)


    6 - Insert the wires into the drilled out switch assembly.


    7 - Take it to the control panel, plug the jack in and hold the switch closed and verify that its making a connection (the no flow indicator should start blinking)

    8 - If everything looks good, put some silicone into the openings you drilled out and insert the wires back into the assembly.

    9 - Repeat step 7 before the silicone starts to set so you can move the wires in or out if needed. The switch needs to be even with the magnet on the flapper in order for the switch to activate.



    10 - Let it set overnight.

    I did this today, and everything is looking awesome! I took the opportunity to switch the wires to an old phone wire I had sitting around as my original wire was cracking and crumbly. Who knows how long this fix will last, but the price of the reed switch ($5) is well worth the experiment in my mind. And don't worry, the control panel is powered by the pump timer, so it only has power when the pump is running. So If something shorts creating a closed circuit, the SWG will only be on when water is moving anyway.

    Don't be afraid to try this! you really have nothing to lose (well, maybe $5). Soldering is the hardest part. I'm not the most experienced, and my solders are crappy, as you can see, and they still work..

    Thanks again for all the help and info guys! I hope this helps some people. If anyone has any questions, just ask!
    13k gallon IG gunite pool
    Jandy 2 speed pump
    Jandy cartridge filter
    Stenner Pump and tank

  2. Back To Top    #2
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: $5 Flow Switch!!!

    Welcome to TFP!

    And thanks for the nice write up! Be sure to report back how it holds up.

    Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
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    Smykowski's Avatar
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    Re: $5 Flow Switch!!!

    Awesome write up. I wish everybody that went the "alternative DIY" route put together a write up like this.

    33' round, 23,000 gal AG vinyl , 1HP 2spd PowerFlo Matrix downsized with 3/4HP impeller (X2), Hayward S180T 150# sand filter (X2), Hayward H250 NG heater Pool Store year 1 - $850 for 2 months; Pool Store year 2 - $440 for 2 months, TFPC year 1 - $170 for 4 months; TFPC year 2 - $95 for 4.5 months
    The most important article on this site - The ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

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    Re: $5 Flow Switch!!!

    After replacing the Thermistor (black thingy!!) in my Aqua Rite (standard), my power light stays on all the time even when the pump motor timer is off. Is this normal? I know I connected all of the wires exactly how they were removed. Now my No Flow light stays on when system is in Auto or Super Chlorinate. Should I try replacing the Flow Switch before replacing the PCB?

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Re: $5 Flow Switch!!!

    Old thread but just what I was looking for. But I don't understand Step 4, I have the red and black wires I understand that but do I soldier them together?

    And thanx for putting this guide together
    22,000 gallons, DE filter, IG pool, plaster/pebble pool

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: $5 Flow Switch!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by mg0698
    Old thread but just what I was looking for. But I don't understand Step 4, I have the red and black wires I understand that but do I soldier them together?

    And thanx for putting this guide together
    The picture shows that the red and black wires go to either end of the reed switch. The other end of the black and red wires go the the 2 wires running back to the control board.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  7. Back To Top    #7

    Re: $5 Flow Switch!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by jblizzle
    Quote Originally Posted by mg0698
    Old thread but just what I was looking for. But I don't understand Step 4, I have the red and black wires I understand that but do I soldier them together?

    And thanx for putting this guide together
    The picture shows that the red and black wires go to either end of the reed switch. The other end of the black and red wires go the the 2 wires running back to the control board.
    Thank you, so after you solider the two wires yo the reed switch then what do you do? Tape them together and stick it in the sensor? Sorry for the noob questions , thanx again
    22,000 gallons, DE filter, IG pool, plaster/pebble pool

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    Re: $5 Flow Switch!!!

    pretty much
    then silicon the ends

    there is a magnet in that round thingy, so when the water flow pushes it towards the central pole, the reed switch will close the circuit

  9. Back To Top    #9

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    Re: $5 Flow Switch!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by jfcrump
    After replacing the Thermistor (black thingy!!) in my Aqua Rite (standard), my power light stays on all the time even when the pump motor timer is off. Is this normal? I know I connected all of the wires exactly how they were removed. Now my No Flow light stays on when system is in Auto or Super Chlorinate. Should I try replacing the Flow Switch before replacing the PCB?


    I replaced the flow switch and still reads "No Flow". I guess my next step is to replace the circuit board. Hate to spend the money but don't know what else to do

    10/11/2012 - replaced the PCB and all is well. Posts on TroubleFreePool.com gave me the hints and ideas about my problem. Pool company wanted $500 to repair. I paid $7.49 for the Thermistor (black thingy!), $58.73 for the flow switch and $198.94 for the PCB for a total of $265.16 including tax and shipping. Saved $234.84 and each step was simple to install

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