ok i changed a superpumps motor( 3/4) all the seals and the impeller...after about 2 hours it shut off and was really hot.....after about a week of this going on , i went back to store..replaced the motor thinking it was bad.....did the same thing.....i thought maybe impeller was wrong size...so i got another set of everything( impeller, defuser, seals ) ...and sure enough...afetr 20 minutes it shuts off...after it cools off it starts again...........is set to 220..as is the timer.........some one sugested to try it on 110 ...but im worried that if 220 power goes into the motor while is set to 220 it will ruin it...........any sugestions?? and thanks
help!! motor overheats and shuts off
- Thread starter josev
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!
Measure to see if you are actually getting 220V to the motor. If it is low, that can cause problems.
Measure to see if you are actually getting 220V to the motor. If it is low, that can cause problems.
After you check the voltage and find that is fine or ok, then I would check how freely it spins (the shaft). Sounds like the bearings are either shot or some dirt got in there. Normally when the entire casing gets hot (cause bearings are basically heating up, not freely spinning) then the thermal switch kicks in. I had this happen on my hayward. The shaft would spin but not freely, had resistance to it. Took it apart and then replaced the bearings and it was fine, spun much more freely. Bearings are $5 a set, so they are cheap to replace. Just a pain to get in the motor casing at times depending on motors to replace. Half the time (more than half) the long threaded rods that hold the case together are usually rusted to where you try to remove the nut and snap it. Almost no one puts that threaded rod in as stainless.
Dixit
Dixit
its a brand new motor...(actually 2...first one did it i thought it was bad ..so i exchanged it..and it did it after 1 hour of being installed)....
ok so i checked..motor is getting 220v.....called and electrician....he checked and said i was correct that it was 220v....but that the motor says its for 5.3 AMPS.... and its pulling in 7.3 AMPS......... he said i should just get a bigger motor...or try to restrict some of the water flow ,( maybe a valve and close it a little bit) and AMPS should go down.....what do you guys think
ok so i checked..motor is getting 220v.....called and electrician....he checked and said i was correct that it was 220v....but that the motor says its for 5.3 AMPS.... and its pulling in 7.3 AMPS......... he said i should just get a bigger motor...or try to restrict some of the water flow ,( maybe a valve and close it a little bit) and AMPS should go down.....what do you guys think
Ah my bad, I forgot you mentioned it was a new motor. Disregard my initial post then.
Im sort of lost on why the electrician thinks that restricting flow will fix it. How did he test it? Did put a inline meter to let the voltage flow through the multimeter? wonder if the amp draw goes down with the motor not inside the basket, like just pull it out and leave the impeller connected and run it, yes there no load but thats at least a test.
Only thing I can think of if there is some restriction already on the suction side or even the outlet side where its causing the motor to slow down and work harder trying to get back to full rpm. That can happen say if the outlets are restricted in some way. Inlet/suction side to be honest should be a problem in my eyes cause if it was restricted to that point it just wouldnt get enough water into the basket/impeller and would keep showing air in the basket. So Im leaning towards outlet/return side restriction somewhere. Whats the filter system you got? Is the pressure higher than it used to be? Which would coinside with outlet side restriction somwhere
What kind of pool is this? Above or Inground? How many outlets, etc, didnt see that information.
Dixit
Im sort of lost on why the electrician thinks that restricting flow will fix it. How did he test it? Did put a inline meter to let the voltage flow through the multimeter? wonder if the amp draw goes down with the motor not inside the basket, like just pull it out and leave the impeller connected and run it, yes there no load but thats at least a test.
Only thing I can think of if there is some restriction already on the suction side or even the outlet side where its causing the motor to slow down and work harder trying to get back to full rpm. That can happen say if the outlets are restricted in some way. Inlet/suction side to be honest should be a problem in my eyes cause if it was restricted to that point it just wouldnt get enough water into the basket/impeller and would keep showing air in the basket. So Im leaning towards outlet/return side restriction somewhere. Whats the filter system you got? Is the pressure higher than it used to be? Which would coinside with outlet side restriction somwhere
What kind of pool is this? Above or Inground? How many outlets, etc, didnt see that information.
Dixit
I did not think a motor could pull more amps than its rating regardless of the resistance on the flow. Are you sure it is wired correctly for the correct voltage?
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
- May 3, 2007
- 16,838
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
A pump motor will draw less power with lower flow rates and higher restriction/pressure loss. So having more restriction is actually less load on the motor. A pump motor will draw the maximum amperage on the right side of the head curve with low head loss and highest flow rate.
But even so, a motor should never overheat on any point of its head curve. It will usually only overheat when the voltage is out of range or there is extra load on the impeller such as when bearings go bad or too large of an impeller. BTW just as a double check, what is the impeller part #.
But even so, a motor should never overheat on any point of its head curve. It will usually only overheat when the voltage is out of range or there is extra load on the impeller such as when bearings go bad or too large of an impeller. BTW just as a double check, what is the impeller part #.
its inground pool...impeller part is spx3007c hayward .......when that tool that he had to measure the amps..was on, when he put his hand on top of the suction in the skimmer the amps did go down..........yes i am possitive the motor is wired correctly.....filter is a c900, clean filter...all is fine...........today at home depot the electrical guy told me just to get a smaller breaker(15..it has a 20) and amps would go down.......i will cap off skimmer tomorrow , and let you guys know, thanks for everything
Wow, that does not say much for that HD employee, they probably should not be in electrical ... Changing the breaker has nothing to do with how many amps the motor is pulling, it just affects at what amps the breaker will trip.
Tell Joe the plumber to get out of the electrical section at HD.
I hate that guy.
I don't see what kind of motor you are putting in.
Is it new, refurbished. Is the service factor the same as the previous motor.
Does the motor sound a little loud, like it is running to fast. Usually you can hear the bearing squeal a bit.
Do you have any kind of valve on the return side you can put a little back pressure on the system, and see if this cures it.
It would quiet it as well. Probably just that simple.
I hate that guy.
I don't see what kind of motor you are putting in.
Is it new, refurbished. Is the service factor the same as the previous motor.
Does the motor sound a little loud, like it is running to fast. Usually you can hear the bearing squeal a bit.
Do you have any kind of valve on the return side you can put a little back pressure on the system, and see if this cures it.
It would quiet it as well. Probably just that simple.
Just-a-PB said:
its AO smith....it sounds perfect...its not the same one that was on before( same power 3/4).......no no valves on suction or return ....
Re: help!! motor overheats and shuts off.
Just an fyi,
There are two different impellers for that pump. One for the full rated, and one for the Max (or up) rated.
Just an fyi,
There are two different impellers for that pump. One for the full rated, and one for the Max (or up) rated.
Not looking for HP, but for Service factor (SF)
Is this pump the same SF as the pump you removed?
What is that number?
You may have to cut in a valve to put some back pressure on it to keep this set up.
Is this pump the same SF as the pump you removed?
What is that number?
You may have to cut in a valve to put some back pressure on it to keep this set up.
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,668
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
jblizzle said:
I agree. Sounds like they need a new vocation...
-sent with Tapatalk 2
- May 3, 2007
- 16,838
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
That impeller is for the Super II pump not the Superpump. But it should be for a 3/4 HP full rated or 1 HP up rate motor. What is the service factor of the motor they used?josev said:
you are right...i went to ace pump and the guy took out a bool and said same thing as just p-b.........told me to get spx3005 and problem would be solved.............thanks to every one.....i will get part on monday and let you guys now...mas985 said:
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,668
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
josev said:
So the fix is to replace the impeller? I guess that means the old motor was more powerful than the new.
To those who understand hydro better than me - does this mean he will end up with less overall water pumped per minute or is that not yet clear?
- May 3, 2007
- 16,838
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,668
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
mas985 said:
Shouldn't the fix have been the right motor... The store sold the wrong part initially...
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