Stuck with Baquacil

I replied earlier, with a long drawn out paragraph, but it only uploaded, "thankteencouragement", So anyway, just to let everyone know, I cheated. I completely drained the pool and scrubbed the heck out of it. It was filled with funky algae "skin" and red sand ( who knows what was blown in during the close). I filled it back up and got my numbers where I needed for the initial start up. Sorry I just couldn't brave adding more chemicals to this already steeping cauldron of funky water. I just wanted to start fresh and learn from the beginning how to maintain the proper levels. Which does bring me to my questions. 1) What is the relationship between FC and CYA, and 2) the calculator shows that I need to put in 98oz of 6% bleach to get my FC up to the proper level, how often can I expect to replenish this supply as the pool is in the sun for most of the day. Thanks for everyone's encouragement.

J
 
not cheating... just taking a slightly different route to a Trouble-Free Pool!!

You will probably lose about 2ppm of chlorine to the sun each day. You will need to test each evening and add the proper amount of bleach.

I will let someone else explain the chlorine-CYA relationship, but in brief, the CYA acts like 'sunscreen' for the chlorine. It helps keep the chlorine from breaking down so rapidly. However, it also decreases the effectiveness of the chlorine somewhat, hence you need to have higher FC levels the higher your CYA goes.
 
Thanks Mermaid for the kind words and Sue for the string. It was very useful and if I followed it correctly, maintaining a proper fc level should prevent any algeacide usage. But, what causes the CyA level to increase, is this a by product of the chlorine(aka bleach)? (my newbie is showing), also after I add the bleach when is it safe to return to the pool? I'm assuming at least 12 hours after circulating the water(my wife is making me ask as she stared at me like I was pouring gasoline in her soup when I was bleach treating the pool). Also, I seems that it would still be a good Idea to continue using the "pucks" floating around just to be sure that the fc maintains...?
I appreciate everyones help, with everything else going on, ah heck, just thanks is all.

J
 
JohnG111,

Congratulations on your conversion from Baquacil. The pucks contain a form of stabilized chlorine - in other words, the pucks contain CYA. The more pucks you use, the higher your CYA becomes. Once CYA gets in the pool, there really is no way to get rid of the CYA except by partial drain and refill.

The liquid chlorine, on the other hand, is unstablilzed - hence no CYA.

I hope this helps a little. Keep asking questions. I strongly recommend reading the STICKIES.

Did you take any "before" and "after" pictures? If so, please post to the forum.

Again, congratulations! You won't regret the BBB regimen. You are going to have such clear water and your yearly chemical costs are going to be a fraction of what you are used to.

Titanium
 
Dichlor (granules) also contains CYA.

It is safe to get into the water immediately after adding bleach, if you are just maintaining normal levels. :)

If you add bleach each evening, there is not really any reason to leave pucks in the pool.

Happy swimming!!
 
So remember, CYA is in the Dichlor and pucks (stabilized chlorine), but not in straight bleach (unstabilized). If you haven't gotten one yet (and I'm sorry if I missed you mentioning it), I highly recommend a test kit...I got the one Duraleigh sells (see the main Index page on this forum) and it's great, but there are others.
If you go with just bleach, you will need to manually add CYA (called Stabilizer at WalMart, 100% cyanuric acid).
You can measure your CYA and the other chemicals you need to balance with the test kit, and you can use Jason's Calculator and other tools on this site to get everything in line.
 
Pink slime aid

I had a similar problem with pink slime or algae using Baq. A product called Pro Team Supreme worked for me. It is a two part process using two tubs of a crystal chemical. One tub is spread around the pool. You wait a a specified time, I don't remember how much, then spread the second tub. The pink algae will be killed. What the PTS does is get rid of the O2 in the water, that supports algae life. It also works in Chlorine water too.


I am about 3/4 of the way through my conversion from Baq on my 24 ft round pool. I opened the pool with the intension of converting so I had lower levels of Baq than you do. I've spent $66 on Chlorine so far. Last year, my first full year on Baq, I was putting 2 gal of oxidizer in a week. BIG $$$ plus CDX and all the other gunk they said to toss in. I had sheets of pink slim under my wedding cake stairs that floated out like ghosts across the pool. My hoses from the pool to the pump were completely pink inside. They (pool store) actually told me to pour oxidizer into the skimmer slowly to try to get rid of it - but to be careful because it could oxidize too fast and explode. That's when I found this web site and decided to convert to CL. I encourage you to do the same regardless of how much Baq you currently have in the pool. You simply don't know what might happen this summer. You might be tossing money, I mean oxidizer in your pool at 2 gal/week too and still not have a sanitary pool. It might take you a couple of weeks and cost 200 dollars but you will come out far ahead with a cleaner, less expensive pool to maintain. My pool right now today is clearer than it has ever been period. I guess I'm now an official convert as I'm preaching the benefits of CL.

Russ
 
Thanks, I wasn't aware of the chemical compounds in PTS. It is expensive though, as you say. I think I paid about $70 when I purchased is a few years back. I am just starting the process this morning. My pH was tested yesterday. It was 7.8. I was directed by Branch Brook Pools (Namco) to get it down to as close to 7.0 before starting to add the next step. which is Saf-T Shock, a chlorine free oxidizing agent. It doesn't say the chemical name. I got this advice before I checked out TFP.



Pro Team Supreme is a way of adding borates to your pool, rather more expensive than Borax. Borates do have some algaecidal effect.
 

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John,

I have experience with Salt, plain Chlorine and Baquacil. I like them all, and let me give you a quick tour.

Sticking with Baquacil? Read this:
First, if you experience white mold, just drop in 1 capful of Baquacil Flock into your filter. This allows the sand filter to get rid of very fine particles, including white mold.
Second, if you neglect your pool for an entire month, and you get worst case full green algae, I have a video of how I got it back to 100% clear blue.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUqvK0ZWZVI

Pros: I like how "silky" the baquacil feels, and I like how the chemical "sticks around" even in bright sunlight. That allows me less hands-on maintenance time.
Cons: It seems to be more expensive. Like $60 / month in chemicals. Some kids don't like the "soapy" taste of the water.

Thinking of salt water pool?
First, a salt pool is essentially a chlorine pool. So many people don't realize this.
Second, the salt chlorine generators simply provide a constant stream of chlorine gas, which allows it to "keep up" with less worries and maintenance of chemical levels.

Pros: it keeps up with chlorine production. My family thought they were swimming in less chlorine (but honestly I think the levels were the same). The salt level feels good on your skin. You can use shock to catch back up, etc.
Cons: If you have a metal Intex pool frame, the salt can corrode your frame very quickly. It happened to me when I measured the salt wrong, kept adding more, and my frame quickly collapsed! Another con, the salt water generators do add a cost, and have to be cleaned out now and then. I got a little tired of the consumer grade ones from Intex, and the "Pro" ones are extremely expensive.

How about normal Chlorine?
First, everybody that thinks they are allergic to chlorine probably means the bad combined chlorine / used up type. Maintaining the right levels doesn't cause eyes to burn, etc.
Second, the number of products off the shelf are so easy to get and use. And if you follow some of the other threads where you add Borax at 35 ppm then I had the most sparkly water EVER.

Pros: cheap, easy to use and easy to recover from when you didn't keep up with it. cheap once again. so nice!
Most any "pool guy" can take care of this type of pool too. No specialists needed.
Cons: My wife thinking that it's bad for the kids (I don't agree). I find Chlorine to escape a bit quickly, even with CYA (cyuranic acid), or sometimes it's odd to deal with CYA building up too much. No big deal, I just found myself tinkering with the chemistry more often with the Chlorine approach when doing a small above ground pool.

In ALL of these systems, you still need to pay attention to pH and Alkalinity levels. ALL of these require you to vacuum or filter in some way. There is no such thing as a maintenance free pool.

Hope this helps. All these systems are doable - don't be afraid and take control of your water.





To make a long story short,I have a 24' ft pool which I installed late Sept last year, with baquacil. Opened 2 weeks ago following the baquacil plan, and I have green cloudy water at the bottom half of the pool. Water seemed pretty good until I started filtering it (sand was still new from Sept). I'm adding all kinds of baqua stuff,( oxidizer, cdx, sanitizer, calcium) and I like the idea of the BBB and saltwater, but with the fresh introduction to the baquacil products I don't see it in my finacial future to convert this year to either one. So, I want to make this work, how do I get rid of the algae (as I'm assuming it is) with the system I've got. I hate to be stubborn, but I really want to understand what is happening, why and how it reacts to the chemicals that are introduced. I'm hoping that a systematic approach to this can lead to a lean cure.

Thanks,

John
 
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