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Thread: Stuck with Baquacil

  1. #21
    Junior Member
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    May 2008
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    I replied earlier, with a long drawn out paragraph, but it only uploaded, "thankteencouragement", So anyway, just to let everyone know, I cheated. I completely drained the pool and scrubbed the heck out of it. It was filled with funky algae "skin" and red sand ( who knows what was blown in during the close). I filled it back up and got my numbers where I needed for the initial start up. Sorry I just couldn't brave adding more chemicals to this already steeping cauldron of funky water. I just wanted to start fresh and learn from the beginning how to maintain the proper levels. Which does bring me to my questions. 1) What is the relationship between FC and CYA, and 2) the calculator shows that I need to put in 98oz of 6% bleach to get my FC up to the proper level, how often can I expect to replenish this supply as the pool is in the sun for most of the day. Thanks for everyone's encouragement.

    J
    Tucson, AZ
    20K gal IG Gunite with spa on same system
    Nautilus Stainless Steel 48 sqft DE filter
    1.5 hp Hayward MaxFlo pump

  2. #22
    Senior Member The Mermaid Queen's Avatar
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    Mar 2007
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    Northern KY
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    2,532
    not cheating... just taking a slightly different route to a Trouble-Free Pool!!

    You will probably lose about 2ppm of chlorine to the sun each day. You will need to test each evening and add the proper amount of bleach.

    I will let someone else explain the chlorine-CYA relationship, but in brief, the CYA acts like 'sunscreen' for the chlorine. It helps keep the chlorine from breaking down so rapidly. However, it also decreases the effectiveness of the chlorine somewhat, hence you need to have higher FC levels the higher your CYA goes.

    18x32 grecian IG vinyl; ~23000 gallons; 250# sand filter, Hayward superpump with AO Smith motor 1HP SF1.0; booster pump for polaris. Handy Links: Jason's Calculator, TF-100 Test Kit, Pool School, CYA-Chlorine Chart
    "Shock" is a process, not a product!

  3. #23
    Senior Member
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    Florida
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    There is a good thread on the chlorine/CYA relationship here: http://www.troublefreepool.com/viewtopic.php?t=2346
    Sue

    18' round Sharkline Matrix AGP / 8600 Gal. / sand filter / Aqua Trol SWG
    Pool owner since 2001. Thanks to TFP for helping me convert off Baquacil after six years!

  4. #24
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    5
    Thanks Mermaid for the kind words and Sue for the string. It was very useful and if I followed it correctly, maintaining a proper fc level should prevent any algeacide usage. But, what causes the CyA level to increase, is this a by product of the chlorine(aka bleach)? (my newbie is showing), also after I add the bleach when is it safe to return to the pool? I'm assuming at least 12 hours after circulating the water(my wife is making me ask as she stared at me like I was pouring gasoline in her soup when I was bleach treating the pool). Also, I seems that it would still be a good Idea to continue using the "pucks" floating around just to be sure that the fc maintains...?
    I appreciate everyones help, with everything else going on, ah heck, just thanks is all.

    J
    Tucson, AZ
    20K gal IG Gunite with spa on same system
    Nautilus Stainless Steel 48 sqft DE filter
    1.5 hp Hayward MaxFlo pump

  5. #25
    Senior Member
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    Jun 2007
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    SF Bay Area
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    JohnG111,

    Congratulations on your conversion from Baquacil. The pucks contain a form of stabilized chlorine - in other words, the pucks contain CYA. The more pucks you use, the higher your CYA becomes. Once CYA gets in the pool, there really is no way to get rid of the CYA except by partial drain and refill.

    The liquid chlorine, on the other hand, is unstablilzed - hence no CYA.

    I hope this helps a little. Keep asking questions. I strongly recommend reading the STICKIES.

    Did you take any "before" and "after" pictures? If so, please post to the forum.

    Again, congratulations! You won't regret the BBB regimen. You are going to have such clear water and your yearly chemical costs are going to be a fraction of what you are used to.

    Titanium
    24,000 gallon inground freeform pool/spa circa 1983 (113 ft perimeter, 625 sq ft) with 350 gallon attached spill-over spa
    2007 2 HP, three-phase Hayward TriStar pump which is powered by an Ikeric VS-200 variable speed drive system
    1983 Laars XE Pool/Spa Heater Type ES 400,000 BTU, 1998 Hayward Super Star-Clear C-4000 cartridge filter (400 sq ft, 4 separate cartridges)
    1998 Polaris 380 pressure-side cleaner w/ 3/4 HP booster pump
    One skimmer :( and one PoolSkim :), One Supervision Galaxy LED pool lamp, Second story solar panels
    Hayward/GoldLine AquaLogic PS4 (replaced 1983 vintage dual circuit Intermatic timer)

  6. #26
    Senior Member The Mermaid Queen's Avatar
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    Northern KY
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    Dichlor (granules) also contains CYA.

    It is safe to get into the water immediately after adding bleach, if you are just maintaining normal levels.

    If you add bleach each evening, there is not really any reason to leave pucks in the pool.

    Happy swimming!!

    18x32 grecian IG vinyl; ~23000 gallons; 250# sand filter, Hayward superpump with AO Smith motor 1HP SF1.0; booster pump for polaris. Handy Links: Jason's Calculator, TF-100 Test Kit, Pool School, CYA-Chlorine Chart
    "Shock" is a process, not a product!

  7. #27
    Senior Member
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    Mar 2008
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    Central VA
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    So remember, CYA is in the Dichlor and pucks (stabilized chlorine), but not in straight bleach (unstabilized). If you haven't gotten one yet (and I'm sorry if I missed you mentioning it), I highly recommend a test kit...I got the one Duraleigh sells (see the main Index page on this forum) and it's great, but there are others.
    If you go with just bleach, you will need to manually add CYA (called Stabilizer at WalMart, 100% cyanuric acid).
    You can measure your CYA and the other chemicals you need to balance with the test kit, and you can use Jason's Calculator and other tools on this site to get everything in line.
    Todd
    --------------
    Pool: 16x36, 16,800 gal., vinyl, sand filter, SWG & AquaCal Heat Pump
    Spa: Hot Springs Sovereign, 355 gal., ozone/ion
    The most helpful tool you'll ever have for your pool:
    http://www.poolcalculator.com/

  8. #28
    Member
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    May 2008
    Location
    Jackson, NJ
    Posts
    36

    Pink slime aid

    I had a similar problem with pink slime or algae using Baq. A product called Pro Team Supreme worked for me. It is a two part process using two tubs of a crystal chemical. One tub is spread around the pool. You wait a a specified time, I don't remember how much, then spread the second tub. The pink algae will be killed. What the PTS does is get rid of the O2 in the water, that supports algae life. It also works in Chlorine water too.


    I am about 3/4 of the way through my conversion from Baq on my 24 ft round pool. I opened the pool with the intension of converting so I had lower levels of Baq than you do. I've spent $66 on Chlorine so far. Last year, my first full year on Baq, I was putting 2 gal of oxidizer in a week. BIG $$$ plus CDX and all the other gunk they said to toss in. I had sheets of pink slim under my wedding cake stairs that floated out like ghosts across the pool. My hoses from the pool to the pump were completely pink inside. They (pool store) actually told me to pour oxidizer into the skimmer slowly to try to get rid of it - but to be careful because it could oxidize too fast and explode. That's when I found this web site and decided to convert to CL. I encourage you to do the same regardless of how much Baq you currently have in the pool. You simply don't know what might happen this summer. You might be tossing money, I mean oxidizer in your pool at 2 gal/week too and still not have a sanitary pool. It might take you a couple of weeks and cost 200 dollars but you will come out far ahead with a cleaner, less expensive pool to maintain. My pool right now today is clearer than it has ever been period. I guess I'm now an official convert as I'm preaching the benefits of CL.

    Russ
    19500gals 28' x 54" AGR vinyl
    3/4 hp Hayward Pro Series High Rate Sand Filter S210T
    3yrs old June 2008

  9. #29
    Administrator JasonLion's Avatar
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    Silver Spring, MD
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    Pro Team Supreme is a way of adding borates to your pool, rather more expensive than Borax. Borates do have some algaecidal effect.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    TFP Admin. Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  10. #30
    Member
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    May 2008
    Location
    Jackson, NJ
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    Thanks, I wasn't aware of the chemical compounds in PTS. It is expensive though, as you say. I think I paid about $70 when I purchased is a few years back. I am just starting the process this morning. My pH was tested yesterday. It was 7.8. I was directed by Branch Brook Pools (Namco) to get it down to as close to 7.0 before starting to add the next step. which is Saf-T Shock, a chlorine free oxidizing agent. It doesn't say the chemical name. I got this advice before I checked out TFP.



    Pro Team Supreme is a way of adding borates to your pool, rather more expensive than Borax. Borates do have some algaecidal effect.
    19500gals 28' x 54" AGR vinyl
    3/4 hp Hayward Pro Series High Rate Sand Filter S210T
    3yrs old June 2008

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