After the first one kept resetting itself, I switched to this outdoor timer for about $17. So far it survived a 2" thunderstorm and worked fine for 3 days.
Another happy peristaltic pump injector
- Thread starter cwuffman
- Start date
Cool, I'll have to look into that model to see if its available for 220v load ....cwuffman said:After the first one kept resetting itself, I switched to this outdoor timer for about $17. So far it survived a 2" thunderstorm and worked fine for 3 days.
I doubt it, but it never hurts to look. You must have purchased a 220 VAC Stenner pump, huh?
cwuffman said:
Yep, had 220v already out in the pump house so went with the lower amperage/cost to run the pump...tied it right into my existing filter timeclock and was good to go.
Great information - Thanks. I think I am going to set up something similar. How strong is the chlorine smell around the tank? Is is sealed really well?
I'm looking into these pumps and my question is why did you get the 10 gallon per day vs the 3 gallons per day? I know you just set the run time based on your need but if you would never need more than 3 gallons a day anyway wouldn't it be better to run this pump longer at a slower rate to even out the adding of chlorine. Maybe there is another reason the 10 gallon per day was selected so I'm curious.
Thanks
Thanks
shuye said:
No smell at all until I take the large screwed on cap off to fill the drum (once a month or so) then its minimal as well (until I spill some while filling) and mine is in a pump house...
Thanks. One more question, with the pump hooked into the Chlorinator, do you have the Chlorinator valve turned on also?
Cajun said:
As I understand the Stenner pumps, they are all built with the same drive motor (in 110 or 220 VAC versions). The difference in output is determined by the pump tube. So efficiency of operation and life span of the entire pump is based on run time. With a timer I can set run time for multiple "on" times during the day when my pool pump is on. The total run time is minimized thus optimizing operational cost and life expectancy of the pump.
The folks who were most interested in the variable speed pumps were mostly planning to connect the Stenner directly to the same control output as their pool pump rather than a separate timer. So it is more critical for them to calculate exact pump size for their needs because it would be on the entire time their pool pump is on. The higher cost of the variable speed pump, the additional mechanical parts to wear out and the longer run times associated with that installation convinced me it would be more efficient to install a single speed, higher output pump and an inexpensive timer.
shuye said:
Yes, the flow on the chlorinator is set to maximum in order to assure high water flow through it. Of course there are no tablets in use since chlorine is now being supplied by the bleach (or liquid chlorine).
The only reason I used the the extra opening on the chlorinator is because it was already there and it seemed pointless to drill another hole in the plumbing.
shuye said:
Not sure what you mean ? I have the discharge of my stenner pump tapped right into a fitting (with the inline check valve and isolation valve) after my sand filter, my inline chlorinator is abandon and the valve off.I will be removing it completely from my system this fall when I re-plumb my equipment pad.I currently have the stenner injecting 12.5% bleach for the 11hrs that my pump and filter is on per day at a setting of 2.75 on the 1-10 dial to maintain my desired FC levels.
But as stated above I will be installing a seperate timer for next season to be able to bring my dial setting up to max stroke and inject just a few times a day rather than the whole time the pump/filter is running and save the wear/tear on my pump tube and motor
roadking00 said:
roadking00: I installed the Stenner inject point into the secondary inlet of my out of service Pentair 320 "Chlorinator". So as a result, I have to set the flow dial on the Pentair 320 to maximum to insure water flow through that unit and push the bleach into the pool. I think that is what the question referred to.
Carl -
Yes, that is what I was referring to. I assumed that you would want the Chlorinator at maximum flow rate to mix in with the chlorine. Thanks - I think I will be doing this in the next few months. We have a new pool and I am just getting the hang of the BBB method and still don't have a good feel for the qty of chlorine needed on a daily basis.
Yes, that is what I was referring to. I assumed that you would want the Chlorinator at maximum flow rate to mix in with the chlorine. Thanks - I think I will be doing this in the next few months. We have a new pool and I am just getting the hang of the BBB method and still don't have a good feel for the qty of chlorine needed on a daily basis.
shuye: Lucky for you that you found (and trusted) this site early on. We first filled our pool Aug of 2011, and had to drain it this last July due to high CYA. I REALLY like the Stenner system, though it's only been in service a few weeks. It's too bad we didn't know then what we know now, or we could have saved the money on the tablet feeder installation and probably spent less on the Stenner. Oh, well! Live and learn.
By the way, no particular chlorine odor near the storage vessel. Also, the slight loose fit around the suction tube into the storage drum assures that the pump will not pull vacuum on the tank.
By the way, no particular chlorine odor near the storage vessel. Also, the slight loose fit around the suction tube into the storage drum assures that the pump will not pull vacuum on the tank.
Carl,
Thanks for the clarification on the pump. I get what your saying the 3, 10, and 22 GPD pumps all have the same motor and it runs at a constant speed and the gearing or transmission or tubs size that attaches to the pump is what controls the output volume. I would get the 10 GPD as well. I really like these setups and I have extra space on my controller so I could easily add this to the program cycle. The pictures you added were very helpful for me to understand how this is hooked up and where the injection is going, so thanks.
I have a few questions.
1. Is this pump loud?
2. It looks like you feed this into your inline chlorinator but I have heard if tabs and bleach ever mix its bad news. Are you completely tab free and you did this purely for convenience or do you still use tabs on occasion (I know I use them when I need to raise my CYA) <<<Edited to add.... I see you answered this question earlier while I was typing this post>>>
3. I have always heard its a bad idea to store bleach outside in the heat but that's exactly what these setups do. Any reduced chlorine effects noticed from doing so?
4. The liquidators are designed to keep the salt from bleach at the bottom of the tank. (is there a way to do that with this system? I'm not even sure what causes the salt to be removed in the bleach while inside the liquidator, Is it because the liquidator mixes water with the bleach? Could adding water to this container do the same thing?) I guess I'm looking for the best of both worlds.
Thanks
Thanks for the clarification on the pump. I get what your saying the 3, 10, and 22 GPD pumps all have the same motor and it runs at a constant speed and the gearing or transmission or tubs size that attaches to the pump is what controls the output volume. I would get the 10 GPD as well. I really like these setups and I have extra space on my controller so I could easily add this to the program cycle. The pictures you added were very helpful for me to understand how this is hooked up and where the injection is going, so thanks.
I have a few questions.
1. Is this pump loud?
2. It looks like you feed this into your inline chlorinator but I have heard if tabs and bleach ever mix its bad news. Are you completely tab free and you did this purely for convenience or do you still use tabs on occasion (I know I use them when I need to raise my CYA) <<<Edited to add.... I see you answered this question earlier while I was typing this post>>>
3. I have always heard its a bad idea to store bleach outside in the heat but that's exactly what these setups do. Any reduced chlorine effects noticed from doing so?
4. The liquidators are designed to keep the salt from bleach at the bottom of the tank. (is there a way to do that with this system? I'm not even sure what causes the salt to be removed in the bleach while inside the liquidator, Is it because the liquidator mixes water with the bleach? Could adding water to this container do the same thing?) I guess I'm looking for the best of both worlds.
Thanks
Ahh, Carl , now I see..must have missed that part of the thread with your chlorinator set up with the injection point....It was just easier for me to just tap into a fitting since my long term was to remove the tablet feeder completely anyhow..your setup looks good and I agree completely , LOVE the stenner set-up and wish I would have stumbled across TFP alot sooner as well, would have saved a ton of time and money
Shuye, there is a excel calc sheet floating around on here somewhere that is real handy on setting up your pump stroke on your stenner to get the exact amount(in ounces or what ever you like) of bleach based on your run time and dial setting.I'll see if I can find a link to it or something and post it...but i think it may be in the thread somewhere if I'm not mistaken...
Shuye, there is a excel calc sheet floating around on here somewhere that is real handy on setting up your pump stroke on your stenner to get the exact amount(in ounces or what ever you like) of bleach based on your run time and dial setting.I'll see if I can find a link to it or something and post it...but i think it may be in the thread somewhere if I'm not mistaken...
Cajun said:
Ideally, I would like to have added the Stenner to my Aqualink control system, but I don't have capacity for another relay, at a reasonable price.
Carl and RoadKing -
Thanks for the info - the pump (or Liquidator) looks like the way to go if you are going to be using bleach. The main advantage of pucks is that they are easy to use and you don't have to add them every day (CYA is the big drawback of course). I am looking for a good solution to adding bleach on a regular basis and not having to manually do it every night, especially if we go out of town for a few days or I go on a business trip.
Steve
Thanks for the info - the pump (or Liquidator) looks like the way to go if you are going to be using bleach. The main advantage of pucks is that they are easy to use and you don't have to add them every day (CYA is the big drawback of course). I am looking for a good solution to adding bleach on a regular basis and not having to manually do it every night, especially if we go out of town for a few days or I go on a business trip.
Steve
shuye said:
Steve,
I must say, I've taken a few day trips this summer (max 10 in a row so far) and was VERY confident thay my pool would be fine when I returned, and this was just after 1 month of having my dosing rate dialed in pretty steady. And sure enough when I returned all was pretty much as I left it, so long as no catastrophic pump or line problems come up I would say as long as i had bleach in my 15gal drum and all my other #'s looked good i would be confident it would be fine for 3-4 weeks...now I just have to figure out how to take that 3-4 week long vacation away from home and I'll be doing alright
NoFear95
0
Not to dig up an old thread. What size tubing did you end up going with on your pump?