Cloudy Pool can't resolve

Apr 10, 2011
17
I have been using the BBB method for about 3 years. I haven't had a problem in over a year as far as I recall. I have an Intex 24' by 52'' vinyl above ground with Cartridge filter B. I had to mow my grass an excessive number of times 2-3 weeks ago due to lots of rain. Even though I mowed away from the pool, the wind blew a lot of fine particles in there. The bottom of the pool collected a good bit of brownish junk. It looked like dead grass to me. I started running the pump 24-7 two weeks ago. I even shocked it to just make sure. My k2006 test results from the early pm from today were as follows, but they have been pretty consistent for 2 weeks.

FC = 3.5, CC = 0, Alk = 70, pH = 7.6, CYA = 30. I use the poolcalculator daily and it calls for 28 oz of 6% bleach to raise FC by 1. I usually just add 60 oz to raise it to 5.5 - which is a tad higher than recommended for that FC to CYA ratio; however, this has worked all summer and my pool has been perfect since mid March. Now even with vacuuming and changing filters/cleaning them, I can't get it to clear up. Any ideas. It just looks cloudy and like there is a white film on the bottom. I never get CC when I test. I don't know if I do have something that I am fighting in pool or not. When I did an OCT 2 weeks back, it was the same then. (Having used the bleach method for 3 years, I wonder when the salt formed will start to make an effect in water appearance.)

I would like to get the pool cleared up for another weekend swim prior to closing for the year.

oh. BTW. when closing, should I even bother with a closing kit like I have used the past 2 years or simply get chemicals balanced and shock with bleach? What is the recommended closing FC levels for my pool or is it the same rules as always?

Thanks for any help. I am trying to learn from all this.

ddavis1975
 
1st off, congrats on being a 3yr. BBB'er.
That's awesome!! :goodjob:
It definitely does work, that's for sure.

As far as salt goes, I doubt that's the cause of your cloudiness, not even remotely. You get salt removal due to splash out, vacuuming to waste, etc.. Then when you top it off, you are diluting the salt that's there in the pool. Also, when you close it each year at the end of the season, assuming you're draining it down below the intake & returns, then you dilute it even more at the start of the following season when you fill it back up to the proper level.

I'm no expert, but I'm pretty sure salt won't cause cloudiness, from what I can remember of playing in the ocean and scuba divers, etc... it's very clear. So you should be good there.

My real concern is that grass that got in there, this could easily cause a CL demand, potentially allowing conditions where algae could begin to grow.
You mentioned you performed an OCLT about 2 weeks ago and passed.

I'd do it again if it were me, as CCs aren't really a good indicator of algae, they only indicate that the CL is combining with organic matter, even then you can have low CCs and have an algae bloom forming.

Do the OCLT and if you have higher than 1ppm of loss overnight, with no direct sun, preferably no indirect sun, then you need to perform the shock procedure. I'm sure you know that this is done /w bleach/liquid CL, it is a process not a product.

Lastly, check your filter, is it getting dirty, is your flow decreasing over time, as it get's dirty?
Check it for holes, damage, make sure it's seating well. Also check your hose inlet and outlet, but it's usually the inlet, for blockage from hair, organic matter, leaves, etc.. Check all the joints, skimmer, etc.. You have to actually take them apart and stick your hand in the hole to make sure there's nothing there decreasing or blocking your flow considerably. Even a small amount in there can decrease flow considerably, thus reducing your filtration capacity.

How do you vacuum, does it go to your skimmer as an attachment, then into the pump, is it the venturi style with a garden hose attached to it, battery powered, little electric or suction powered robot?
If you can vacuum to waste and you are clearly seeing sediment, I'd do that. If you can't, it's easy to do with an Intex cartridge filter, just disconnect the return hose and dump it in the yard. Do it slowly, take your time and vacuum like you're controlling the Mars Rover, or performing brain surgery, so you don't stir it up, but instead get it all in the vacuum.

Report back and let us know the results of your OCLT and your efforts on the above.

As for closing for the winter, there is an article in Pool School on that, here: Closing (Winterizing) Your Above Ground Pool

Beyond that, I can't be of much help, as this is my 1st pool and 1st season with it and it's not one I can leave up. But someone else will be along to help you out with this.
 
From reading your post, two things come to mind...

1. It sounds like you are not keeping your pool clean enough. visible debris (I suspect the brownish stuff was dead algae) uses excess chlorine.

2. Even though your chlorine ppm would normally be adequate, it probably isn't adequate enough to kill and eliminate the organics existing in your pool. In short, you need to shock.

It is absolutely essential that you shock exactly as the article in Pool School tells you. That will, over a period of days, kill everything and get your pool back to normal. Part of that shock process is diligent cleaning and vacuuming so all the visible stuff on the floor has to come up.
 
I had a similiar problem two weeks ago. Received lots of rain from Isaac, and the pool was cloudy. Checked the pH and FC all was good. After several days still cloudy, FC still ok. I poured in 8 oz of poly-quant algeacide. Next day I had a perfectly clear pool. You might have suspended solids too small for the filter to filter. The poly-quant aids in getting rid of these solids.
 
dschlic1 said:
I had a similiar problem two weeks ago. Received lots of rain from Isaac, and the pool was cloudy. Checked the pH and FC all was good. After several days still cloudy, FC still ok. I poured in 8 oz of poly-quant algeacide. Next day I had a perfectly clear pool. You might have suspended solids too small for the filter to filter. The poly-quant aids in getting rid of these solids.

Curious as to why you decided to go the algaecide route, as opposed to shocking it?
Did you pass an OCLT?
 
In reply to several posts, I have shocked it tonight. My CYA tested at <30 - even though it holds FC. My ALK was only 60, FC = 3.5, pH = 7.4, cc = 0. I shocked it to a 12 - even though 10 would do, but I don't trust that CYA level. It has been higher all summer.

My plan is to check FC level tomorrow and balance H20. I will Do OCLT Fri. night and Sat am and see if I need to keep shocking. When I vacuum, i will use my return hose to dump right in yard as suggested to get the Crud off the bottom and clear up faster.

I have pics, but they exceed the limit. My cartridge had a green slime on it after one day. Probably a sign that it needed shocking after all. !! haha
 
Yeah, we love pics here, we're addicted :D

This should help you out, a nice tutorial written by one of our fair members.
It shows how to post photos that exceed the size limit of the forum.
Posting Photos - A Tutorial

As for your pool, sounds like you are on the right track. :thumleft:
Yeah, green in your filter, you totally needed to do some algae busting!! :whip:

That CYA test can be a bear, make sure you stand in the daylight, outside, with your back to the sun, test vial at waist level. That dot has to completely & totally go bye bye, not a trace, even after you stare at it for a few seconds. You can pour the mix back into your mixing tube, from the vial and shake it once more, then try again and safely do this many times within several minutes without adversely effecting the test. Helps you get the hang of it.

Pardon my question, but what do you mean by "balance my H20"?
Do you mean balance your H2O, your water, keeping it balanced?

Also, remember, don't let her drop below shock for any length of time, keep on it. Kill that algae DEAD!! It was mean to you, it messed up your pool, now you have to retake rightful ownership of your water. :thequeen:

Hang in there, you're on your way to success and we're here to help you every step of the way.
 
I shocked it last night again after doing so Thur night. I shocked it to a 14 - even thought the target acording to my measured cya was a 10-12. I rechecked the FC at 10pm and got a 9.5 - which was below target. this morning at 7am it was still 9.5. that is good taht it stayed the same. there is a little brown on the bottom in areas, but not much like the past few days. Yesterday I vacuumed and unhooked the return and dumped it into the yard like was suggested to keep all the Crud from dirtying up filter and stirring up pool. that has helped a lot.

So should I vacuum n shock again to make sure or have I passed the test? It is still a little cloudy but much better. My pool usually looks a little cloudy after I get FC real high for a day and then sparkles crystal clear.

Bad news is that rain is in the forecast tonight and I have to mow grass again sometime soon. Hope it doesn't mess up the pool as it seems close to right.
 
Standard answer is that you shock until all three conditions are met. Cloudy is not clear, so you need to KEEP going.

-sent with Tapatalk 2
 
before and after pics

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Here's an update to those that have replied to me. After shocking it twice today and checking near sundown to find my FC was still above shock, I have vacuumed up a small amount of debris, changed the filter, had to add some water after pumping out a good bit in the yard Friday. The water is much, much better. I am letting the filter run all night and will check the FC in am to see if it passes the OCT. I feel that it will and will look great by tomorrow.

I can see a thin region of white/cloudy near the bottom - but not on it. It times past, when it looked like this, after running the pump a day, it collected and filtered out everything and it was perfect.

I do, however, have a few questions to you experts. I noticed today that a few leaves from trees nearby started falling in the pool. Many of our friends have started closing their pool. Our pool temp is about 84 degrees. I have read that algae grows above 65 degrees. the past two years I have kept our pool open till mid Oct to allow the water temp to drop near 65 from those early frost like mornings. When we open it- it is usually in Mid March/ This has allowed us to not have a green pool when opening. However, the drawback to all this is that we have lots of leaves in early Oct all in the pool and I end up spending an hour or so a day on overage keeping those out and cleaning the pool. Then we open so early bc the water temp is above 65 by mid march her in Alabama.

My questions are: 1. when do you recommend closing and opening the pool based on water temp?
2. would you adjust it if you had several large leaf dropping trees nearby?
3. Would it be too much of a pain to close it now or soon at least before it gets to be high maintenance?
4. What about opening in April after all the blooms and helicopter things that our trees drop in there have fallen off?
5. i know we would have a green pool if we close now and open late, but wouldn't that be easier to deal with than the daily hassle of vacuuming leaves, etc? No one will swim in my family till May anyway. I bet in a week of shocking it would be perfect again. Just wanting to hear some opinions from all you that have done this many times and maybe differently than the timetable taht I have done - which works but is a royal pain!
 
i know we would have a green pool if we close now and open late, but wouldn't that be easier to deal with than the daily hassle of vacuuming leaves, etc?
For me, it is easier to keep the pool clean as I go rather than trying to clean it all up in the Spring. It's really a personal choice.

Algae will grow in temps below 65. I think the general guideline on the forum is temps below 60 isw better but I have algae in my pool (I never close it here in the South) when the water is 50 if I don't chlorinate.
 
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