1st time poster - considering 2nd time drain

[chadlife]

To begin, thank you for providing this forum. I've already learned a great deal and look forward to learning much more.

pH - 7
Chlorine: off the chart(red in color)
I do not have any other readings but will add them tomorrow after a visit to Leslie's Pool Supply.
I will also purchase the Taylor Complete FAS-DPD Pool Water Test Kit K-2006.

During the last week of July I gave up my attempt at conquering the algae bloom and emptied the pool. I refilled the pool and added granular chlorine until I received a proper FC reading. After 2 weeks of heavy use, daily water tests(FC and pH) and filter changes the pool began to appear a little cloudy(I could still clearly see the bottom). I continued normal daily maintenance but added more chlorine. By August 17th the pool began to spiral down hill and algae was visibly present on the bottom. pH is currently low(7- pale yellow) and free chlorine is high(red color).

Any suggestions.I live in FL so we still have a couple months of pool time.

Thanks in advance.

Chad

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome

Take a look at the TF-100 vs the K-2006 in the link in my signature. Either will work, but the TF-100 comes with more of the reagents you actually need so you will not run out as quickly.

I would not put much faith in the pool store testing (and have my doubts you will find the FAS-DPD test there).

Seems like you just need to get some reliable test results to know what is going wrong. What were you using to add chlorine? If it was the dichlor, then I am guessing your CYA is high and your FC is not high enough ... that would also explain the low pH. Switch to liquid chlorine.

 

[JohnT]

At high chlorine levels, the pH test is inaccurate, so don't bother with that.

It's important that we know your CYA and your chlorine level accurately to best help you. Get those numbers and we can proceed.

 

[linen]

Welcome to tfp, chadlife

You are getting good advice!

 

[SerbianPoolGuy]

At high chlorine levels, the pH test is inaccurate, so don't bother with that.

It's important that we know your CYA and your chlorine level accurately to best help you. Get those numbers and we can proceed.

When you say high chlorine, what is high so the PH test won't work?

 

[jblizzle]

the pH test becomes unreliable when FC is greater than 10ppm. It may actually be accurate if you look at the color immediately, but it will drift within seconds.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short

 

[Casey]

By August 17th the pool began to spiral down hill and algae was visibly present on the bottom. pH is currently low(7- pale yellow) and free chlorine is high(red color).


Thanks in advance.

Chad

Is it just me? But does it seem like there is a mistake being made between the regants being used to test pH and chlorine?

 

[jblizzle]

maybe not. The DPD chlorine test is pinks unlike the OTO chlorine test that is yellows.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short

 

[chadlife]

Thank you for the follow up posts.posting.php?mode=reply&f=24&t=52449#

I also thought that maybe I switched the reagents after my first red chlorine level but that's not the case.

I was using trichloro granular chlorine and 3inch tabs. I switch to dichloro granular 5 days ago but stopped adding additional chlorine on Tuesday.

The waterTests I received from the pool store yesterday are as follows:
FAC: 6 (this was a guess as the color was off the scale)
TAC: 6
CH: 200
CYA: 60
TA: 90
pH: 7.4
Copper: 0
Iron: 0
TDS: 1500
Pho:200
Temp: 78

I have a TF-100 test kit on the way.

Please advise.

Thanks.

Chad

 

[march2012]

Thank you for the follow up posts.posting.php?mode=reply&f=24&t=52449#

I also thought that maybe I switched the reagents after my first red chlorine level but that's not the case.

I was using trichloro granular chlorine and 3inch tabs. I switch to dichloro granular 5 days ago but stopped adding additional chlorine on Tuesday.

The waterTests I received from the pool store yesterday are as follows:
FAC: 6 (this was a guess as the color was off the scale)
TAC: 6
CH: 200
CYA: 60
TA: 90
pH: 7.4
Copper: 0
Iron: 0
TDS: 1500
Pho:200
Temp: 78

I have a TF-100 test kit on the way.

Please advise.

Thanks.

Chad

without accurate test results from your own test kit it is difficult to know what to do. However, if you assume that the pool store results are accurate (which they likely are not) you can get started shocking. Keep in mind that their results may be wildly inaccurate causing you to waste money or even possibly damage your pool if you have liner (by fading it). If you really just want to get started shocking:

1) go here pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock to figure out what your shock level is based on your CYA level
2) Your shock level for your reported CYA is 24ppm. The challenge is if they messed up the CYA you may have significantly more or less CYA than they measured. If less, then if you shock with 24ppm you may damage your liner. If it is more, then you will waste money (although you will still kill a lot of algae)
3) To be able to measure your FC when it is that high you need to dilute your test water. The larger volume you start with the better because the less measuring errors will impact the results. You will need to dilute your sample at least 4:1. Measure the largest amount of your sample that will fit in your tube (44ml?), pour that into a bowl, then do that 4 more times with distilled water. Mix it up, then pour whatever amount your test needs back into the tube.

Each unit of FC you read on your test is equal to 5 units of real FC.

Ive never actually done this before so the experts can weigh in on how well this works in practice.

 

[linen]

have a TF-100 test kit on the way.

you will love the control it will give you over your pool chemistry...and the algae you are fighting. Until you get it, it is going to be hard to deal with the algae. For sure, do not put in anymore trichlor or dichlor until you test with you new kit. Right now, if you cya is at 60 ppm, you do not want to add anymore, so use bleach/liquid chlorine to chlorinate. Other than that I would hold fast until your kit arrives.

Ive never actually done this before so the experts can weigh in on how well this works in practice.

It can work in a pinch, but not great. As you go to higher and higher ratios, the error in the test increases as well.

 

[chadlife]

My FC was 4 this afternoon(yellow again) and after adding YellowOut the water is blue(no longer green). I'll use liquid bleach to maintain proper FC and wait for test kit to arrive. The water is blue in color but cloudy. Thanks.