What is the right chlorine level ?.?.?.?

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Thanks for the link .....makes sense.

Thought there was another test kit needed...

Do you think the kit I have needs to be replaced....it's new and there is only a month or two left before closing. (Live in NY)
 
Can you test for FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, and CYA?

Based on your stated CYA level of 60ppm, are you able to test accurately to maintain your FC above 5ppm at all times?

Really the FAS-DPD chlorine test is the key to a good test kit, but it can also be ordered separately.
 
Simpler than the chart is the fact that the active chlorine (hypochlorous acid) level at the recommended Free Chlorine (FC) level relative to the Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level is less than the equivalent of 0.1 ppm FC with no CYA which is at least 10 times lower than what comes out of the faucet for chlorinated water (note that chloraminated water is different and some municipal water systems have switched to chloramination). The rate of oxidation of your wife's skin, swimsuits and hair while in the pool will be likewise much lower than when she takes a shower or bath. The place where the FC level alone may have some minor effect is after she gets out and the water evaporates. If that's a concern, she can just rinse off briefly after she gets out.

My wife experienced this difference every year when she swam in an indoor community center pool with 1-2 ppm FC and no CYA over the 5-month winter season and her swimsuit would degrade over just one such season. In our own pool with 3-6 ppm FC and 40 ppm CYA, her swimsuits have lasted many seasons and now after 9 years are showing enough degradation to get replaced. The same is true with the effects on her skin and hair where the indoor pool caused more flakiness and frizziness while our own pool did not. The difference is the CYA level since the active chlorine level is significantly reduced when CYA is present. Most of the chlorine is bound to CYA and is barely directly reactive and has virtually no skin absorption. CYA acts like a chlorine buffer holding chlorine in reserve for when it is needed, but does not act like chlorine itself.
 
chem geek said:
(note that chloraminated water is different and some municipal water systems have switched to chloramination).
Click to expand...

Do you have any information that we can peruse about this difference and the reasons for the shift?
 
From Wiki: "Chloramination is the treatment of drinking water with a chloramine disinfectant. Both chlorine and small amounts of ammonia are added to the water one at a time which react together to form chloramine (also called combined chlorine), a long lasting disinfectant. Chloramine disinfection is sometimes used in large distribution systems."

CC is a long lasting disinfectant? How can this be?

Jose
 
Monochloramine (formed from chlorine and ammonia) kills bacteria slowly so is not suitable for pools where one wants a fast-acting disinfectant to help prevent person-to-person transmission of disease. In a water pipe, there's lots of exposure time so the slower kill time for monochloramine is not as much of a problem. It lasts longer in the pipe because it is less reactive (it won't oxidize bather waste, for example) and it doesn't form as many disinfection by-products such as trihalomethanes. So that's why many municipal water districts have switched to using it AFTER they have disinfected the water by other means which is usually using chlorine.
 

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If you try to maintain a fc level of .5 to 1 ppm per your cya of 60 ppm go ahead and order the tf100 test kit from tftestkits.net because you will need it to shock your pool because you WILL have algae!!! As a matter of fact you really need to order the tf100 test kit anyway because it is a must have to properly maintain your very expensive investment.......Mike
 
My wife was against me using bleach and muratic acid in our pool and she swore she would not get in it with those things in it, so what I did was to sit her down beside me.in front of the.laptop and let her read about using the BBB method on here and she was amazed at all the knowledge of the great people on here and now I can't get her out of the pool. Also you might want to consider adding borax to your pool water it makes a big difference in the feel and look of the water......Mike
 
Not sure where I got the CYA of 60 reading......maybe a couple of weeks ago before having to drain the pool three times of rain water this past week....

Here are the readings from Leslie last night

FC - 2.0 ppm
TC - 2.0 ppm
CH - 250 ppm
CYA - 30 ppm
TA - 100 ppm
PH - 7.4
Copper - 0
Iron - 0
Pho - 0

Yes I am considering either the TF100 or the Taylor-K-2006 test kits.... :goodjob:

I like the latter one better as its more compact like the basic4 kit I am using now....BUT the TF100 seems to be a better deal...

:cheers:
 
Assuming those numbers are correct with a cya of 30ppm your min fc is 2 and your target fc is 4 I would dose it to 5 ppm fc this evening after the sun is off the pool and test it again tomorrow evening about the same time and see what you fc consumption is for the 24 hours period and adjust from there......Mike
 
OK

Been doing a bit of reading.... There is a thread "extended test kit directions"

There are tests OTO, DPD and FAS-DPD.....

are these included in the TF-100 test kit ????

Getting more and more confused here :hammer:


:edit:


Just read what the kit comes with...... DUH..... My bad :oops:

:wave:
 
hggbrew said:
OK

Been doing a bit of reading.... There is a thread "extended test kit directions"

There are tests OTO, DPD and FAS-DPD.....

are these included in the TF-100 test kit ????

Getting more and more confused here :hammer:
Click to expand...

Yes, that is all included in the standard TF-100 kit. That thread is simply a more in-depth extension of the laminated instruction card included with the kit. The title simply refers to the directions being extended, not the kit itself. :)

Jose
 
Yes, that is all included in the standard TF-100 kit. That thread is simply a more in-depth extension of the laminated instruction card included with the kit. The title simply refers to the directions being extended, not the kit itself.

Jose
Click to expand...

:wink:

Prolly edited my post while you typed this...... Thanks Jose

Prolly prdering the TF-100XL with Speedstir 2day :party:

:cheers: :whoot: :cheers:
 
hggbrew said:
There are tests OTO, DPD and FAS-DPD.....
are these included in the TF-100 test kit ????

Just read what the kit comes with...... DUH..... My bad :oops:
Click to expand...

I assume you now realize that it comes with the OTO and FAS-DPD but not the DPD test - correct?
 
hggbrew said:
I assume you now realize that it comes with the OTO and FAS-DPD but not the DPD test - correct?
Click to expand...


OK, now I am starting to feel really STUPID..... Is that a seperate kit I need to get????? :?:
Click to expand...

Nope - not needed. FAS-DPD will do it all for you. And I may be wrong - but I thought the DPD test did not come with the TF100 or the K2006 - someone else can chime in if I'm misleading you. In any case, I never use it if it is included in the TF100.
 

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