Any way to test just CC using Taylor K-2006 test kit?

[dave18]

Hello all,

Is there any way to use the Taylor K-2006 test kit to test CC without going through the FC titration process?

The reason I ask is that with the CC test tied to the FC test and FC levels at 20 ppm or higher, it would take 100 drops of titration just to get the chance to perform the CC test with a drop equivalence of 0.2 ppm. (Even with 0.5 ppm, it would still take 40 drops!)

Anyone know of a way around this? I tried adding R-003 reagent to my pool water sample and it just turned it yellow instead of the pink I was hoping for. I'm diluting my pool samples for the FC tests, but that makes it impossible to test CC with any level of accuracy.

Thanks for any ideas on this!

BTW, my water is looking less green, more clear, but still a bit cloudy (can't see the bottom at the deep end). So, it's getting there. I hope!

 

[spidey07]

No. Use a 10 mL sample instead of 25. You're just wasting tons of reagent doing that and that kind of precision isn't at all necessary.

20 ppm is only 40 drops at 10 ML instead of your 100.

If you're battling algae or other problems and needing high shock levels of FC, you'll burn through reagent quickly. It's the first one you'll deplete with your kit and why tftestkits supplies so much. I have the K-2006 and have already replaced the .75 oz reagent once this season and will likely have to do so before season end and have yet to do any shocking.

 

[dave18]

OK, thanks for the info. I guess I should order some more reagent then. That's going to be one killer of a test!

Thanks again.

 

[JamesW]

If you're shocking, then you need to test the FC anyway. The best thing to do is to get plenty of reagent.

 

[dave18]

Whoa, I was just looking at that exact product on Amazon!

You are right, it's probably too much, but it's the same price as just a couple of the 2 oz bottles, which is probably too little. This is definitely a deal for anyone shocking the pool!

Thanks for the link! The same seller charges more for the same product on Amazon. Go figure.

 

[dave18]

If you're shocking, then you need to test the FC anyway.

For now, but I need to test the CC to know when to stop. Those are the tests that are going to really kill my reagent! Right now I'm diluting my samples.

Thanks again for the help. Not many people out there understand the finer details of using/preserving/ordering reagent.

 

[JamesW]

There really won't be a situation where you only need the CC portion of the test.

In any case, I don't think that there would be a way to determine the CC without doing the FC test.

 

[R.J.]

If the pool is still green and cloudy all you need to know is FC; there's no real need to test CC's. Once the pool is clear, then you can start testing for CC.

 

[Bama Rambler]

R.J. is correct. Testing CC's only use a minor amount of reagent and they're not even important until your pool is clear and holding FC overnight. FC is the main test and it uses the most reagent if your shocking.

 

[dave18]

Thanks for all the great input.

This morning, the pool was blue instead of green. Progress! It's still not clear, though. Hopefully that will come with a little more time. The pool was clear when we bought the house, but I am worried that the filter might be too old or too far gone to get it clear again. Oh well, I'll just wait. It sounds like clarity is an important part of the test.

Regarding the CC testing, CC testing itself does not require much reagent. But FC testing with a drop equivalence of 0.5 ppm and FC levels over 20 ppm will require at least 40 drops to get through. Maybe that's not a lot, but it seems like a lot to me! I'm not sure if I've got 80 drops left in my kit. Or 120 if I need to do a few tests!

Thanks again for all the help. I couldn't do it without all the great people/information here! This site rules!

 

[chem geek]

If you want to test for the CC that is monochloramine specifically, you can use an salicylate-type ammonia test kit and multiply the result by 5 since that type of kit measures ammonia and monochloramine together, though in ammonia units (ppm-N). Given the resolution of most ammonia test kits, this method will only work with higher CC levels since 0.25 ppm ammonia would be 1.25 ppm CC (as monochloramine).

 

[dave18]

Thanks, chem geek! Since the resolution on that test is 1.25 ppm, I think I'll stick with the other method since I need closer to 0.5 ppm. But it's good to know the test exists!

-Dave